Denali FAQ

16K ridge

About Denali

Q: Where is Denali

A: The giant massif is located in Alaska. It is the highest mountain in North America at 20,310′, and one of the 7 Summits. It is famous for extremely cold weather but is very popular as a guided or self-guided climb. As you drive North from Anchorage, you see the huge massif looming above all the other mountains. You fly into Anchorage and drive about 2 hours North to Talkeetna. Then you take a bush plane to the Kahiltna Glacier.

Q: Denali had a name change and a new measured height in 2015.
A:
Per this press release from the Secretary of the Interior on August 30, 2015:

In recognition of the long history of strong support from Alaska state, tribal and congressional leaders, and in resolution of an official request for a name change pending for 40 years, U.S. Secretary of the Interior Sally Jewell today announced that the highest mountain in the United States and North America, formerly known as Mount McKinley, will be officially given the traditional Koyukon Athabascan name of Denali.

President Obama endorsed Jewell’s decision to issue a Secretarial Order that officially changes the name. Jewell is granted the authority to make such changes in certain cases per the 1947 federal law that provides for the standardization of geographic names through the U.S. Board on Geographic Names. The name change will be reflected in all federal usage.

In July 2015, a GPS unit was placed on the summit to accurately measure the elevation, lowering the highest point by 10 feet from 20,320 feet to 20,310. You can read more details at this NPS link.

Q: When is it usually climbed?
A: Late April through July; however, May and June are the primary months. Earlier, the temps are mind-numbing cold; later, when it warms, crevasses open, presenting more danger. The sweet spot to summit is in mid-June. I was there in late June and early July, and the temperature and crevasse danger were acceptable. One advantage of going later is that many of the snow camps are already built, so you do not have to build snow walls at every camp, plus it is warmer. I will never target a Denali summit after June 15.

Q: Are late-season climbs (late June) less successful than earlier?
A: Yes and no. Guide Dave Hahn told me that he had summited 36 out of 40 times—all in late season. That is a 90% success rate compared to an overall 50% for all expeditions throughout the season. However, that is a normal success rate for a commercial climb, and recent weather patterns make the late season look more difficult.

Q: I understand that Denali’s West Buttress is just a long slog. How hard is it?
A: It is not ‘easy,’ but it depends on what you have done. I did not find it very difficult after Mont Blanc, Everest, Ama Dablam and some technical climbs like The Grand Teton. The biggest issue with Denali is harsh weather, plus a very short section above the High Camp, The Autobaun, where the route is fixed with ropes. Some people have trouble pulling the sleds. I did not find this a problem. All this said, however, on my 2007 climb, I was stopped cold at 17,000′ with a mysterious stomach illness and was helicoptered off the mountain to an area hospital. I never found out the root problem after undergoing extensive tests once I got home. It could have been altitude illness or food poisoning – I just don’t know. The rest of my AMS team turned back a few days after also suffering from ailments.

Q: How does Denali compare with Rainier or Aconcagua?
A: It is primarily a more physical climb involving heavy loads. It is a much longer climb but similar to Rainier in that you climb on steep snow slopes most of the time, but obviously at a significantly higher altitude. You are using fixed ropes on the headwall above the Ranger camp at 14,200′ and pulling a sled with personal and group gear. Finally, the weather can be extreme, with brutal winds and cold temperatures.

Q: How does Denali compare with Everest or other 8,000m peaks?
A: It is a great training climb for aspiring Everest climbers to learn about winter camping and experience high-altitude climbing. There are no features like Everest’s Lhotse Face or Hillary Step on Denali’s West Buttress route. Also, even compensating for the lower barometric pressure making the “feel like” altitude higher, climbing at 25,000 is significantly more difficult.

Q: Is a Denali climb dangerous?
A: Absolutely. You should only attempt Denali if you have the proper experience and logistics for emergency situations. Almost every year, climbers die due to a fall or weather. In 2012, 4 Japanese climbers died from a freak avalanche on Motorcycle Hill.

Q: How many people had summited, and how many people had died trying?
A: 45,411 climbers have attempted Denali, with 23,426 summiting, a 52% success rate


Training, Gear & Communication:

Q: How did you train for this climb?
A: I did a lot of running for aerobic conditioning plus weight training for the heavy loads. In 2011, I climbed other mountains extensively as part of my 7 Summits program.

Q: Was altitude a problem on this climb?
A: Yes, altitude is always a challenge on these big mountains. Many people experience some type of AMS above 11,000′.

Q: Can you prepare for the altitude?
A: Not really. The common approach is to move slowly up the mountain (1000′ a day maximum), spending your days at a higher altitude than where you sleep until your summit bid. The human body simply does not function well at high altitudes, especially above 8000m (26,300′). As you go higher, the barometric pressure decreases. Although the air still contains 21% oxygen, every breath contains fewer oxygen molecules.

Everest legend Tom Hornbein explained it to the American Lung Association this way:

The lower oxygen stimulates chemoreceptors that initiate an increase in breathing, resulting in a lowering of the partial pressure of CO2 and hence more alkaline blood pH. The kidneys begin to unload bicarbonate to compensate. Though this adaptation can take many days, up to 80% occurs just in the first 48 to 72 hours. There are many other physiologic changes going on, among them the stimulus of low oxygen to release the hormone, erythropoietin to stimulate more red blood cell production, a physiological and still acceptable form of blood doping that enhances endurance performance at low altitudes. Adaptive changes are not always good for one’s health. Some South American high altitude residents can have what’s called chronic mountain sickness, resulting from too many red blood cells; their blood can be up to 84-85% red blood cells. The increased blood viscosity and sometimes associated pulmonary hypertension can result in right heart failure.

You cannot do much to acclimatize while at a low altitude. Still, some companies claim to help acclimate through specially designed tents that simulate the reduced oxygen levels at higher elevations. You can find more details at the Hypoxico website. They can be rented for about $200 weekly.

Q: What kind of equipment did you use?

Denali Gear
Denali Gear

A: Mostly, I use the same gear I used on Everest—lots of layers. My technical equipment included a long-handle ice axe, harness, carabineers and crampons. It is always critical to protect my toes, fingers and face since these are most susceptible to frostbite. As for warmth, I always wear a knit cap and at least liner gloves when I get the least bit cool – regardless of the outside temp. I use a three-layer system of Merino wool base layer (top and bottom), heavier fleece Farmer’s John kind of suit or just my Patagonia Guide Pants, depending on how cold it is that day, then my top wind or warmth layer, e.g.,, down or gortex jacket. When the winds pick up and the temps hover near 0F, I add an 850 Fill Down jacket and mitts. I have a gear page for reference.

Q: Is there anything unique in your Denali gear?
A: It can be extremely cold and windy, so multiple down layers are required. A good wind shell is one of the most crucial items, including boots and gloves. Goggles are also critical, depending on conditions. My boots were the Kayland 6001 with 40 Below Overboots in 2011, Koflachs in 2007 and Everest One Sports in 2001. The Koflachs were warm enough.

Q: Did you use a satellite phone?
A: For details on my expedition communications, please see this tutorial. I used an Iridium phone in 2007 and 2011 and a GlobalStar in 2001. The Iridium had spotty connections. Cell phone connections are spotty on Denali and should never be your only communication method. There used to be support for analog handsets, but as of 2011, it no longer exists.


Expedition Basics

Q: Which route is most prevalent?
A: The West Buttress is the most popular route. The other routes, including Cassin Ridge, West Rib, and South Buttress, are highly technical and subject to avalanches. Most Denali climbers use the West Buttress route.

Q: How long will it take?
A: Allow at least 3 weeks on the mountain, plus another few days to get onto and off it. However, it is very common to be stuck for another week somewhere on Denali with lousy weather.

Q: How much does a standard climb cost with and without a guide?
A: The costs can range from $6500 to $14,000, depending on who you use. If you do everything yourself, cut the highest cost in half or more, and it should cost no more than $3,000, assuming you have the basic gear. See my Guide page for more details.

Q: Do I need a permit to climb?
A: Yes. As of the 2025 season, all climbers must register. The climbing fee is $440 for climbers 25 years and older and $340 for 24 years and younger. You pay in advance online or at the park headquarters in Talkeetna. Each season, the limit of 1,500 climbers, guided or unguided, has never been exceeded.

Q: Are there local guides for Denali?
A: The NPS has approved seven companies to guide, e.g., (charge a fee) on Denali: Alaska Mountaineering School, Alpine Ascents International, American Alpine Institute, International Mountian Guides, Mountain Trip Alaska, N.O.L.S. and Rainier Mountaineering Inc. The NPS requires a 3:1 climber-to-guide ratio. Anyone caught ‘guiding’ is removed and fined, according to Rangers. Due to these regulations, almost all the companies charge the same price, run the same program and have the same conservative attitude. There have been several deaths over the past few years on commercial trips as well as private ones.

Some well-known guides, such as Adventure Consultants, Jagged Globe, etc., will run Denali climbs using a subcontracted permit from one of the seven authorized operators. They charge slightly more for this convenience.

Q: Do I need a guide for Denali?
A: It all depends on your skills and experience. The monopoly on Denali has created a suspect environment for most commercial outfits, causing them to be very conservative. Most commercial Guides are good people, but given they run multiple climbs each year (as many as 3 or 4 climbs per guide), they burn out and appear to have little motivation to go to the summit, especially late in the season. Another issue with companies with an NPS concession is that they squeeze as many trips as possible (around 11 back-to-back) into the three-month climbing season. As a result, there is virtually no time for weather delays. So once your time runs out, regardless of the weather, it is time to go, and your climb is over. With the crazy weather patterns in recent years on high mountains, this is becoming a huge issue, resulting in many climbers missing summits due to schedules and financial considerations by the operators.

If you want a guided trip, I suggest selecting a company that runs only one or two climbs each season by getting a permit from one of the authorized guides. The guides will be fresher and maybe more motivated. However, ensure they use their guides and do not simply subcontract back to the permit owner, which takes you back to the original issue.

If you can go without a commercial guide, you will probably have a more positive experience. But you need to have the skills and qualified partners. Denali is dangerous, and you can die. There are usually a lot of climbers on Denali, so you would probably not be alone, but you could easily be. You will be alone in harsh weather (white-outs) or a medical emergency, so consider your skill level carefully. Also, crevasse danger is real and always present in the lower glacier area, so crevasse rescue skills must be second nature to everyone on the team. Climbing alone or in a team that is too small is never a good idea.

Q: How do you get on an expedition to climb Denali?
A:
Most reputable guides ask for your climbing resume and require some climbing experience. Ideally, they want to see the climbs of Rainier, a Colorado, or California 14ers. But most people can get on a Denali commercial expedition these days without many questions,, which is a real problem. The guide services all run the same basic formula on the West Butt route and are very conservative with weather, safety and risks. Many guides like AAI and IMG will require that you take a Denali prep course on Rainier or Baker before accepting you for Denali.

In a New York Times article, Colby Coombs, a co-owner of the Alaska Mountaineering School, said, “He regularly sees people showing up to buy equipment for expeditions who do not have a clue what they are going to face or what equipment they might need.” Yet many of those people end up on commercial climbs.

Q: What will be involved if I plan my climb by myself?
A: Everything: permits, travel, hotels, food, gear, routes, communications, emergency contentions – everything. You can save a lot of money this way, well over half the list price, but as I said before, consider your skills if something goes wrong – are you self-sufficient? What are your medical skills? HAPE and HACE are possibilities for Denali. Do you have the proper medicine and training to deal with them? And a hundred more questions. The Rangers will strongly discourage solo climbs. In my opinion, you must bring a two-way radio and a sat phone and have the frequency or number of the local rescue resources already programmed in. For help with meals and logistics, ExposureAlsaka will buy, prepare, pack meals, and arrange all your lodging and glacier flights for a very reasonable fee. An excellent resource is from Tim Hult after his 2005 climb. He created a somewhat exhaustive guide to climbing Denali on your own. For commercial trips, see my guide page for more information.


My 2001, 2007 and 2011 Experiences

Q: Did you summit?
A: No. In 2001, I reached Denali Pass at around 18,000, but high winds stopped our summit climb. In 2007, after waiting 7 days at the 14K Camp, a mysterious stomach illness hit me on the 17K ridge near Washburn’s Thumb. I was helicoptered off the mountain to a hospital in an area. I never found out the root problem after undergoing extensive tests once I got home. It could have been altitude illness or food poisoning – I just don’t know. In 2011, high winds stopped us at the 17,200′ High Camp after waiting 8 days.

Q: Why did you choose Mountain Trip in 2001 and 2011 and Alaska Mountaineering School in 2007 as guide services?
A: In 2001/7, my trips were scheduled on short notice; these were my only options. Spaces fill up quickly during Denali’s short climbing season. I wanted to go with a guided team since I did not have suitable partners to organize my climb then.

Q: How did they perform?
A: I preferred Mountain Trip over AMS due to their attitude and guiding style. They treated everyone more like adults and less as students. I observed them again in 2007 while with AMS and saw the same attitude. However, I observed in 2011 that all commercial guides seem to follow the same formula and do not show a lot of flexibility in catering to the slowest climber in the group. So, if you are fast or experienced, you may be frustrated with one of the authorized guides. I suggest speaking candidly with your guide owner before signing up and sending money. I would strongly suggest organizing your climb if you have the experience and partners to do it safely.

Q: Which route did you take?
A: The standard West Buttress ridge. We camped at 7.2K, 7.8K, 11.2K, 14.2K, and 17.2K to the summit at 20.3 K. While it is a bit of a slog, especially on the lower part of the glacier, it is a fun climb. The views are some of the best on the planet, overlooking the vast Alaskan ranges. Once above the Ranger camp, the climbing becomes much more enjoyable with some nice exposure along the ridge plus the extra challenge of altitude, high winds and even colder temperatures.

Q: What kind of weather conditions did you have?
A: It was very cold, especially when the wind picked up. Denali has been one of the coldest climbs I have ever experienced.

Q: Did you use bottled oxygen?
A: No, supplemental oxygen is usually only used above 26,300′.

Q: Would you climb Denali again?
A: I am not excited about another West Buttress climb, given I have been there three times already. But I would go with good friends or, preferably, on a small team to nab this summit.


Bottom Line

Denali is a beautiful climb in an incredible area. It offers many of the same challenges as the 8000m mountains and even more if the weather turns bad. The lower part of the West Buttress climb is kind of boring, with long nights of pulling a sled, but once above the Ranger camp at 14,000′, it becomes an exciting and satisfying experience. The sad part of a Denali climb today is the lack of adventure, the formula and the mass treatment by commercial operators. If you want to climb Denali, find a few qualified friends and make the adventure your own.

Denali Resources

I have climbed on Denali three times. You can read about my climbs through these links:

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