North America: Denali (20,320’/6194m)
Denali is the native American name for the mountain. In 1980, in honor of President McKinley, the National Park Service named the surrounding park Denali National Park. In 2015, the mountain’s name was officially changed to Denali.
It is in central Alaska – 300 miles South of the Arctic Circle and 200 miles East of the Bearing Sea. Denali offers some of the largest vertical gain of any mountain on Earth. With base camp at 7,200′ and the summit at 20,310′, this 13,110′ gain over twelve miles is larger than Cho Oyu (8,407) or even Everest (10,535). The biggest threat to Denali is the weather. It is well known for socking you in for days with high winds and snow. 45,411 climbers have attempted Denali, with 23,426 summiting, a 52% success rate. Almost 125 have died, including 11 in 1992.
The second highest mountain in North America is Mt. Logan in Canada’s Yukon, at 19,551’/5959m, 385 miles southeast of Denali. Similar to Denali, Logan is a vast massif with eleven peaks. Logan is believed to have the largest base circumference of any mountain. The normal route is straightforward, but the weather is a significant problem for Logan, as it is for Denali, in addition to being so remote.
Here’s a look at the summit stats for the popular West Buttress route from 2000 to 2024, along with the most popular summit day:
Denali West Buttress Routesource: National Park Service |
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| Year | Total Summits | % | Top Summit Date | # |
| 2024 | 523 | 50 | ||
| 2023 | 308 | 30 | ||
| 2022 | 745 | 70 | ||
| 2021 | 490 | 52 | ||
| 2020 | CLOSED FOR COVID | |||
| 2019 | 793 | 65 | ||
| 2018 | 463 | 44 | June 8 | 67 |
| 2017 | 461 | 41 | May 31 | 54 |
| 2016 | 647 | 60 | June 16 | 83 |
| 2015 | 589 | 57 | June 15 | 87 |
| 2014 | 404 | 35 | June 4 | 99 |
| 2013 | 729 | 68 | May 27 | 56 |
| 2012 | 460 | 40 | May 27 | 56 |
| 2011 | 623 | 55 | May 27 & 30 | 45 |
| 2010 | 630 | 56 | June 21 | 54 |
| 2009 | 649 | 60 | June 7 | 77 |
| 2008 | 652 | 58 | May 30 | 91 |
| 2007 | 513 | 47 | June 12 | 77 |
| 2006 | 545 | 52 | May 29 | 50 |
| 2005 | 716 | 59 | June 15 | 101 |
| 2004 | 628 | 54 | June 4 | 71 |
| 2003 | 556 | 58 | June 12 | 115 |
| 2002 | 575 | 53 | June 13 | 56 |
| 2001 | 670 | 60 | June 4 | 69 |
| 2000 | 556 | 53 | June 3 | 71 |
These are some quick facts from the NPS for 2024:
- Climbers from the USA: 639 (64% of the total of both Denali and Foraker registrants) US climbers came from all over, with representation from 46 of the 50 states, plus the District of Columbia. Consistent with past years, most US climbers came from the following four states: Washington State (95), Alaska (81), Colorado (79) and California (36).
- International climbers: 362 (36% of total) Denali National Park welcomed international climbers from 51 countries this year. Once again, the top was Canada (40), followed by the United Kingdom (38), Poland (20), and China, India, and Japan, each with 17.
- Average trip length: The average trip length (regardless of outcome) for non-guided groups was 14 days, with guided Denali climbs averaging 17 days. Isolating just the climbers who reached the summit increased the statistic to 20 days.
- Average age Submission of a climber’s age is now optional when applying for a Denali permit. Based on the individuals who did disclose their age this season, the average age for male climbers was 39, while women averaged 36 years old. The youngest climber was 15, and the oldest was 75.
- Women climbers Women comprised 16% of climbers on Denali and Foraker, or 161 individuals—down from 2023 when 197 women (19% of the total) attempted Denali and Foraker.
Denali Resources
I have climbed on Denali three times. You can read about my climbs through these links: