About Mt. Rainier
The National Park Service (NPS) has stopped publishing detailed statistics for Rainer, so this is the latest available.
Q: Where is Mt. Rainier?
A: Rainier National Park in Washington State, US. It is a popular North American climb, with 10,000 attempts each year. The nearest major city is Seattle, and the major airport is Seattle-Tacoma International. The closest town is Ashford, and the Park HQ is in Paradise, Washington.
Q: When is Rainier usually climbed?
A: The prime climbing time is from late May to mid-September. The most popular route, Disappointment Cleaver, maxes out around the end of July each year, with over 600 people on it. Some experts climb Rainier year round, but these climbers have tons of experience. Weather can always be an issue. Even in mid-summer, it can snow, rain or hail at any time.
Q: How does Rainier compare with a Colorado/California 14er or Denali?
A: Snow! Rainier is snow-covered year-round on the upper part of all routes. Also, it has significant and deadly glaciers. A good friend lost his climbing partner in one of these crevasse. There is a real threat of avalanches on all routes. While the altitude may be similar to other 14ers, the weather and terrain put Rainier in a different class. Denali’s standard route is 6,000′ longer than most 14ers due to starting around 5,000′ and has even more brutal weather. However, the long snow slopes of the West Buttress route are similar, so Rainier is a good training climb for Denali or the Himalayas.
Q: How hard is Rainier?
A: Depends on the route. There are over 60 named routes on Mt. Rainier. The Disappointment Cleaver or Emmons Glacier routes are the most popular and straightforward. Another standard route is the Gibraltar Ledges. You gain almost 9,000′ from the trailhead at Paradise inside the Park to the summit and cover 18 miles round-trip. Liberty Ridge is well-known for its challenging and rewarding route. Every route to the summit requires a helmet, crampons and an ice axe (the base definition of “technical”), plus traveling roped up due to crevasse danger—very few climb solo. You must be in top physical condition with an excellent attitude to stand on the top. Also, having some essential experience with lower mountains and snow climbs is suitable for making your experience more enjoyable.
Q: Is climbing Rainier dangerous?
A: Statistically, it is similar to many large and popular mountains, with 1 to 3 people dying each year. Most deaths are attributed to weather and might have been avoided by turning around earlier. Most routes have hidden crevasses, falling rock, steep slopes and extreme exposure. The Ingraham Glacier and Liberty Ridge routes have seen the most deaths.
Q: How many people had summited, and how many people had died trying?
A: It is estimated that over 500,000 people have attempted Mt. Rainier, with about 200,000 summiting, and around 110 have died since 1887, mostly from falls or avalanches. The National Park Service states that about 10,000 attempt the summit summit each year and 50% succeed. 2014 saw a tragic incident with 6 climbers killed by some type of avalanche related incident on the Liberty Ridge route. An ice avalanche on Ingraham Glacier killed 11 of a 29-member climbing party in 1981. This was deadliest U.S. climbing incident ever. Several people die each year on the various routes.
Training, Gear & Communication:
Q: How should I train for Rainier?
A: Focus on aerobic capacity, muscular strength and attitude. Even though it is only 14,411′, the elevation will stress the lung capacity needed to provide oxygen to your muscles. Also, you will carry 15 to 40 pounds throughout the climb. Your legs will hurt on the climb and your knees on the way down. You may have some pains in your back, depending on your overall condition. So, get in shape before climbing this hill! I run, lift weights, stretch and use visualization techniques to address these areas.
Q: Is altitude a problem on Rainier since it is only 14,411?
A: Altitude can be a problem anytime above 8,000 feet. Expect problems if you live at low elevations and come to Washington and jump on a trail without spending a few days letting your body adjust. The trailhead is 5,000′, so you need some time to acclimate. The best you can do is drink as much water as you can on the climb, protect yourself from the sun and wind, and if you feel light-headed or nauseated, take a break and have some water and food. Use your best judgment if you should go on, and never climb alone. The only cure for altitude sickness is to go lower as fast as possible. You need to descend 1,000′ to start feeling better.
Q: Some guides require a climbing school. Is it necessary?
A: As always, it depends on your experience. Back in 2004, I found the RMI school fun and educational. You can never minimize the importance of good technique in the mountains. Also, by doing it with your team, you create bonds which are invaluable in the mountains
Q: What kind of gear do I need?
A: This is a technical climb with the risk of extreme weather, so you need layers: wicking, warmth and wind/snow protection. Then you need your personal technical gear: harness, rope, pickets, slings, carabineers, ice axe, crampons, helmet, and finally, food and water. Also, if you are not on an organized guided trip, you must have provisions for an emergency: stove, tent, sleeping bag, extra food and water, first aid, etc.
Q: Anything special about gear for Rainier?
A: Rainier is a cold and windy mountain year-round. Layer your clothing and be prepared for rain, sun and wind. Never wear blue jeans or cotton clothing since they will not dry quickly enough when wet, thus increasing your chances of hypothermia if you get wet. A hat and sunglasses with sunscreen are a must. You will need boots that support crampons. Many climbers use double plastic boots like Scarpa, La Sportiva Trango or Nepal series boots. You will need a change of socks after getting to your high camp and again on the way down. Bring warm gloves and a headlamp, plus a basic first aid kit. Finally, a warm down (800 fill) jacket with a hood is absolutely required to stay warm during rest breaks or in blizzard conditions, along with a Gortex shell and pants. Don’t ignore the need for a super warm jacket, as it will get cold on your climb during breaks.
Q: What about food and water?
A: Obviously, you need to carry everything with you. There is water at Camp Muir but none high up on the mountain or Camp Schurman. From Camp Muir, I suggest 2 liters of water – one on the way up and one for the return. Also, a liter must be consumed before you start the climb- over breakfast, etc. I have found that drinking a reasonable amount of water before you start will help you stay ahead of the water loss game. If you feel thirsty, it is too late! Food should be easily digestible snacks. You need calories during any climb.
Q: Do cell phones work?
A: Yes, but you may have to wander a bit for a good signal – be careful of crevasses while wandering! In 2012, we got decent ATT and Verizon coverage at Camp Schurman beside the ranger hut. In 2015, I was able to connect using AT&T from Camp Schurman.
Rainier Basics
Q: Which route is most popular?
A: The Disappointment Cleaver (DC) or Emmons-Winthrop Glacier by a considerable margin. In 2017, the DC route had 8,118 climbers and 3,693 summited or 46%. There are over 60 named routes, many of them very technical. Most have altitude gains of 9,000′ with 30-45 degree grades. The Liberty Ridge is famous for it’s difficulty and deaths. It has a gain of 11,400′ with a maximum grade of 55 degrees. Another route, the North Mowich Ice Cliff, has a maximum grade of 85 degrees – almost vertical!
Q: How long does it take?
A: With a commercial guide, most people take two days, not including a day at school. On the DC route, from Paradise to Camp Muir, it takes about 5 hours at a leisurely pace. Then, using the Disappointment Cleaver route from Muir to the summit, the climb can take anywhere from 6 to 8 hours, depending on the weather and your fitness level. The return to Muir takes about half the time. We had a very fit team in 2004, and we made the summit in 5 hours and 20 minutes, with a return in just under 3 hours. The return to Paradise took 3 hours. Most people plan on leaving Muir at about 1:00 AM. This being said, a 78-year-old woman made it from Paradise to the summit and back on one day in 2004! Jack Kuenzle’s current speed climb is on May 4, 2023, at 3:04:31.
The Emmons Glacier route takes longer, with the summit bid taking 6 to 8 hours and the return to Camp Schurman about half that time.
Q: How much does a standard climb cost with and without a guide?
A: A 3-day climb via the Disappointment Clever usually costs around $2,600 with a commercial guide like IMG. Doing everything yourself cuts the cost to several hundred. See my Guide page for more details.
Q: Do I need a permit to climb Rainier?
A: A climbing ‘pass’ is required by the National Park Service for climbs on the glaciers or to the summit. It cost $68 as of 2025. You can get the application online. If you go with one of the authorized guiding companies, they will arrange this.
Q: Who are the approved guides for Rainier?
As of early 2025, the National Park Service (NPS) had three approved guide services: Rainier Mountaineering Inc (RMI) can guide up to 24 climbers each night through Camp Muir, International Mountain Guides (IMG) and Alpine Ascents (AAI) can take up to 12 climbers nightly on the Muir route and 12 on the Ingraham Flats. The Emmons Glacier climb is divided evenly among Alpine, IMG and RMI. Note that these climbs sell out up to a year in advance, so act quickly. Also, one-third of the more than 60 summit routes are off-limits to paid guide services. According to the American Mountain Guide Association, the NPS also offers Single Trip Guide Commercial Use Authorizations (CUAs) for uniquely qualified national and international climbing guides to bring clients to Mount Rainier for a one-time trip.
Q: Do I really need a Guide?
A: It depends; most do not. In 2016, the three guide companies took 5,110 climbers – 1,841 guides and 3,269 clients. In the same year, there were 10,975 climbers; thus, 7,706 were independent, or 70%. There is no clear publication of success, which is a warning sign, but it is believed to be a bit higher than the independent climbers of around 50%. Rainier Mountaineering Inc (RMI) states they guide 2,700, and about 70% make it with their guides. The RMI guides have years of experience and know the mountain as well as anyone. In 2004, we used RMI since most of our team had limited experience in these climbing conditions. We had excellent weather, and the route was well-marked, so they didn’t have to work that hard. But the guides would have been invaluable if we had bad weather or one of our party became ill or got hurt. As with most things, you don’t appreciate them until you need them.
Q: What is involved if I plan my climb?
A: Everything: permits, travel, hotels, food, gear, routes, communications, emergency contentions—everything. Climbing Rainier is easier than Everest, but you are still alone. The NPS estimates that 60% of all climbers on Rainier are self-guided. This is an excellet blog resoucre for climbers.
My 2012 and 2015 Emmons-Winthrop Glacier Experience
Q: Did you summit?
A: Yes, all five members of our team made the summit, three of whom made it in 2015. Please read the 2012 trip report and the 2015 report.
Q: Did you use a guide service?
A: No for 2012 and 2015. We had a very experienced team in 2012 with multiple Rainier climbs between us, over 15. Similar for 2015. In both climbs, we wanted a more personal experience without a commercial program’s structure and time pressure.
Q: Which route did you take?
A: The Emmons-Winthrop Glacier both years. We left from the White River Campground, hiked to Glacier Basin Campground for the night, then went on to Camp Schurman for a short night. We left Camp around midnight, navigating the Emmons Icefall with headlamps before taking a direct line straight up the Winthrop to the summit. It took us 8 hours up and about four down.
Q: What kind of weather conditions did you experience?
A: We climbed the last few days of July 2012 and had almost perfect temperatures, but the summit night was quite cold and very windy on top. 2015 it was very windy, and the glacier was heavily crevassed. We summited that year on July 8.
2004 Disappointment Cleaver Experience
Q: Did you summit?
A: Yes, all nine of our team made the summit in a season record for an RMI team of 5 hours and 20 minutes from Muir camp. Please read the trip report.
Q: Why did you choose RMI as a guide service in 2004?
A: This was the first time for 7 of our team of 9 to climb on snow with crevasse danger, so I thought it was wise to go with highly experienced guides. RMI takes thousands of people up Rainier each year and has an excellent success record.
Q: How did they perform?
A: Very well. The senior guide had summited 96 times and knew Rainier well. The other two were first-year guides and showed great maturity. But the common theme was their commitment to our team’s safety and summit success – in that order. Overall, RMI did an excellent job, and I highly recommend them. My only grouse was a serious mix-up at Whitaker’s Bunkhouse and the incredibly poor quality of the “hut” at Camp Muir. But the first was addressed to our limited satisfaction, and the second seems to come with climbing Rainier (bring a tent and sleep outside!)
Q: Which route did you take?
A: The Disappointment Cleaver. We all enjoyed it, especially the climbers new to snow climbing. The route passed over and under some dangerous areas, such as the ‘backboard’ and up the Emmons Glacier. The views of the sun rising were simply spectacular.
Q: What kind of weather conditions did you experience?
A: Hot and sunny, cold and windy! Temperatures range from 0 to 90 degrees in the summer and drop dramatically when a Pacific cold front moves in. Because of the elevation, the sun is oppressive on a sunny day. The winds are one of the biggest problems. As we descended, we experienced strong winds and a lenticular formed over the summit, indicating strong winds. If we had been up there, we would have had to bivy or get down quickly since this situation can be dangerous.
Bottom Line
Mt. Rainier is a jewel for Americans. It is easy to access, offers many challenging routes and has surprises that mimic the Himalayas and the wild Alaskan giants. I had a lot of fun on our climb with great friends. It is a perfect warm-up for climbers wanting to go to Denali or Aconcagua or for someone looking for their next step from a Colorado or California 14er.