Vinson FAQ

Alan on the summit of Vinson December 9, 2010

Antarctica
16,067′,4897 meters
Summited December 9, 2010
7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s

About Vinson

Q: Where is Vinson
A: 600 miles from the South Pole, Mount Vinson was first summited in 1966 by climbers led by Nicholas Clinch from the American Alpine Club and the National Science Foundation. It was the last of the 7 Summits to be summited. It was named after US Senator and Antarctica supporter Carl Vinson. It is in the Sentinel range of the Ellsworth Mountains. Just getting there is an adventure. The flight previously was a four-hour, 20,000-mile trip on a Russian Ilyushin 76 cargo plane, but today (2025) is a sleek 757 outfitted with Business Class seating throughout the plane starting from the tip of South America to the snow camp of Union Glacier. Once there, climbers are ferried another 35 minutes via a Twin Otter to Vinson base camp

Q: When is it usually climbed?
A: Climbs usually take place between December and February. – the 24 hours of sunlight a day in summer in Antarctica.

Q: I understand that Vinson is easy.
A: It is straightforward, with mostly glacier travel, but the climbing is not Vinson’s challenge; it is the weather and the logistics of getting in and out of Antarctica.

Q: How does Vinson compare with Denali or Rainier?
A: It is easier than Denali since it is shorter—if the weather is not brutal. We sat in our tents at Low Camp for six days, waiting for 50 mph winds to ease on the summit ridge. Like Denali, you pull a sled with personal and group gear, but the loads are lighter. Even though the summit is about 16,000′, the effective altitude is about 2,000′ higher.

Q: Is a Vinson climb dangerous?
A: Absolutely. While there have been no deaths on Vinson, which is remarkable, there are cases of severe frostbite. The primary issue is that in case of a life-threatening emergency, it could take days or weeks to get you back to a hospital, given the severe weather conditions.

Q: How many people had summited, and how many people had died trying?
A: An estimated 1,200 climbers have summited Vinson at an extremely high success rate. There have been no deaths.


Training, Gear & Communication:

Q: How did you train for this climb?
A: I usually climb my local Colorado 14ers, plus daily workouts with weights and on an elliptical machine.

Q: Was altitude a problem on this climb?
A: It’s not a big issue, given that it is 16,000′. However, the barometric pressure is quite low at both Poles, so the available oxygen per breath is lower than at the given altitude compared to other big mountains. Thus, from a cardiovascular perspective, it felt like it was 18,000′.

Gear for Mt. VinsonQ: What kind of equipment did you use?
A: Mostly, I use the same gear I used on Everest—lots of layers. My technical equipment included a long-handle ice axe, harness, carabineers and crampons. Protecting my toes, fingers and face is critical since they are most susceptible to frostbite. As for warmth, I always wear a knit cap and at least liner gloves when I get the least bit cool – regardless of the outside temp. I use a three-layer system of Merino wool base layer (top and bottom), heavier fleece as in a Farmer’s John kind of suit or just my Gortex Pants, depending on how cold it is that day, then my top wind or warmth layer e.g. Patagonia Micro Puff and/or JetStream Shell. When the winds pick up, and the temps hover at -30F, I add an 850 Fill Down jacket plus my mitts, which I never used on Vinson.

Q: Is anything special in your gear for Vinson?
A: I took almost all my extreme weather gear except the full-down suit. It can be extremely cold and windy, so multiple down layers are required. My boots were the Kayland 8001, an integrated gator boot with a separate inner boot similar to the Millets or Olympus Mons. Some people climbed in double plastics with overboots. I was never cold. I was pleased when I used a new sleeping bag from Mountain Hardwear, the Wrath -20—I also used the ExPed Down mat 9 on top of a Z-pad. I was warm and comfortable.

Q: Did you use a satellite phone?
A: I used an Iridium phone with good results to post updates to this website.


Expedition Basics

Q: Which route is most prevalent?
A: There is only one primary route from the west side, which follows the Branscomb Glacier and has two intermediate camps. In 2001, a team climbed via the East Face. In late 2008, one team climbed to the Shinn Col via the Dater/Hinckley glaciers before joining the regular route.

Q: How long will it take?
A: A Vinson climb can be incredibly short. With zero weather delays, you can arrive at Union Glacier, fly to Vinson Base Camp, climb to Low Camp, then High Camp and summit, plus return in about a week. But this seldom occurs. Count on three weeks with weather delays.

Q: How much does a standard climb cost with and without a guide?
A: For 2025, the costs are around $55,000. The cost is so high due to the logistics of getting to Antarctica. Once you are there, you can see why.

Q: Do I need a permit to climb?
A: There are no permits, but you must use Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions(ALE) to fly to Antarctica since they are the only ones allowed to fly there.

Q: Do I need a guide for Vinson?
A: ALE requires a guide to climb unless they approve you as an exception with proper experience and a team of 3 or more—don’t count on it. They can provide a guide, or any other guide company will provide one. In my opinion, you must bring a two-way radio and a satellite phone and have the frequency or number of the local rescue resources already programmed in.

Q: How do you get on an expedition to climb Vinson?
A:
Most reputable guides ask for your climbing resume and require some climbing experience. Ideally, they want to see Rainier, Colorado, or California 14ers climbs. But most anyone can get on a Vinson commercial expedition without many questions. The guide services follow the same basic formula and are very conservative regarding weather, safety, and risks. I believe ALE has a minimum age of 18 to fly to Antarctica.


My 2010 Experience

Q: Did you summit?
A: Yes, on December 9th, 2010. We arrived in Punta Arenas on November 27, flew to Union Glacier the next day and then to Vinson Base Camp on November 30th. We did a carry to Low Camp and returned to BC. Next was a move to Low Camp and a carry to High Camp. Then the winds picked up, and we were stuck at Low Camp for six days. We moved to High Camp and summited on Dec 9 when it relented. The return was swift – about 24 hours but then we waited out another weather deadly at Union Glacier for three days. It was 3 weeks from home to home.

Q: Why did you choose International Mountain Guides?
A: Phil Ershler is the simple answer. Phil has been guiding to Antarctica since the 1980s and has summited over 15 times. Phil is a legend in climbing, with ground-breaking efforts on Everest, K2, 25 summits of Denali and nearly 450 summits of Rainier. Also, I was climbing most of the 7 Summits with IMG throughout 2011.

Q: How did they perform?
A: Very, very well. Phil showed his experience and skills throughout the climb. We had various skills on our team, and Phil carefully looked after everyone, along with a Junior guide – Aaron. I would climb anywhere, anytime without question with Phil, and I never have said that about any guide.

Q: Which route did you take?
A: The standard route via the Branscomb Glacier. We had Base Camp at 7300′, Low Camp at 9100; High Camp at 13,200′

Q: What kind of weather conditions did you have?
A: It was cold but overall very nice. The daily temperature was between -20F and +20F in the still air. We had a few days of winds at 15 mph with gusts over 30. We stayed in our tents or the Posh hole those days. High winds on the summit ridge caused us to stay at Low Camp for 6 days, but when there was no wind, it was quite comfortable even in below-zero air temps.

Q: Did you use bottled oxygen?
A: No, supplemental oxygen is usually only used above 26,300′.

Q: Would you climb Vinson again?
A: I would return to Antarctica in a finger snap. It is a special place and a privilege to visit for any reason – climbing or otherwise.

Bottom Line

Vinson is a spectacular climb in a unique area. While not technically challenging, there are issues with weather and logistics. However, just getting to go there was a privilege.


Vinson Resources:


7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s

Ida Arnette
Ida Arnette

In late 2010, I launched the 7 Summits for Alzheimer’s campaign, where I wanted to climb all seven (eight) of the Seven Summits in one year. The first summit was Vinson in Antarctica on December 9th, 2010. This was the last summit on October 25, 2011. I had made every summit except Denali, which was stopped by weather, 3100′ short of the summit.

I have been able to send our Alzheimer’s message of hope, need and urgency from each continent, reaching over 12 million people and raising money for research, awareness and caregivers. In 2025, I will continue to dedicate my climbing and public presence to honoring my mom, Ida, and raising research funds for Alzheimer’s nonprofits. Please consider a donation today.donate to Alzheimers

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