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Dec 312017
K2 and Everest Winter Teams on the Move

The Polish K2 team is now in Pakistan and the Everest team in the Khumbu. It will be weeks before they begin actually climbing either peak. See this post for full background on both expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Winter K2 I received this update today from the Polish team: News from Pakistan: The expedition crew arrived in Skardu today by morning, all rested and in excellent moods. Repacking and preparing jeeps and tomorrow they will drive to Askole, from where the caravan will go to K2 Base Camp. Everything according continue reading

Dec 222017
K2 and Everest Winter Climbs are on!

After months of speculation, Alex Txikon will return to attempt a winter, no supplemental oxygen summit of Everest. And the Polish K2 team will leave Poland on 29th December for their winter K2 attempt. UPDATE: The K2 team has left Poland. Winter Dates To claim a true winter ascent of a northern hemisphere peak, the summit must be reached during the calendar winter of the northern hemisphere. For 2017/18 this begins with the winter solstice on December 21, 2017 at 11:28 am EST and ends with the spring equinox on March 20, 2018 at 12:15 pm EDT. Also to be fully continue reading

Dec 032017
K2 Winter 2017: Final Preparations

After multiple attempts to summit K2 in winter, a Polish team is finalizing their plans to attempt the last 8000er not summited in winter. They will arrive in Pakistan after Christmas this year, 2017. K2 is the world’s 2th highest mountain at 28,251’/8611m. It is located in northwest Pakistan about 30 miles from the border with India. K2 is called the Mountaineer Mountain and the Savage Mountain for its deadly and difficult reputation. Additional Member The expedition has been in the planning stages for years but perhaps one of the biggest last minute changes is that elite Kazakstan alpinist Denis Urubko continue reading

Oct 082017
Everest and K2 in the Winter

Will there be a winter summit of Everest and finally on K2 this winter? This is always a question as we approach winter. And teams usually keep their plans quiet. The recent suspects include Alex Txikon on Everest and the Poles on K2. To claim a true winter ascent of a northern hemisphere peak, the summit must be reached during the calendar winter of the northern hemisphere. For 2017/18 this begins with the winter solstice on December 21, 2017 at 11:28 am EST and ends with the spring equinox on March 201, 2018 at 12:15 pm EDT. Also to be fully continue reading

Aug 242017
Climbing News: The Difficulty of Finding the Summit

If there is one certainty in mountaineering it is not to believe everything you read, and in some cases your own eyes. For the second time this season, well-regarded Sherpa guide, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa seems to have missed the summit. First on Nanga Parbat by his own admission now on Broad Peak according to one of the climbers with him. These are not the first time Mingma has had his summit questioned even though he claims to have summited 11 of the 14 peaks above 8000 meters. For many climbers, these claims end up being honest mistakes where the climber continue reading

Aug 142017
K2 2017 Season Coverage: How Mingma Gyalje Sherpa's team Summited K2 when others Stopped

For the first time since 2014, K2 saw climbers on the summit. Lead by Mingma Gyalje Sherpa founder of the Nepali guide company Dreamers Destination, this 31 year-old Sherpa pushed the limits when other longtime, well respected guides said “no.” While the Khumbu seems to be the home of Sherpas who have summited Everest, the Rolwaling valley is quickly becoming the home of the K2 Sherpas with 9 summits between the Sherpas who live there. Not only did Mingma summit K2, his second summit of the world’s second highest peak, but he also summited four other 8000ers and nearly got another continue reading

Aug 042017
Mingma Sherpa Continues 8000er Roll with Broad Peak

Mingma Gyalje Sherpa founder of Dreamers Destination continues his impressive 2017 with yet another summit of an 8000 meter mountain, Broad Peak. Icelander John Snorri Sigurjónsson also summited BP adding to his two 8000ers this year – K2 and Lhotse. British-American Vanessa O’Brien who summited K2 with Mingma was not with them but apparently, as reported by Mingma, Fredrik Sträng went along to nab Broad Peak thus not wasting his trip to the Karakorum after not being able to summit K2. Mingma posted on Facebook: Finished my 11x8000m peak. Broad peak is my 10th 8000m without oxygen. All safely arrived back to camp3. Congratulation continue reading

Jul 292017
K2 2017 Season Coverage: More K2 Summit Attempts - Update 2

After hosting 12 people on the summit of K2 on 28 July 2017, another few independent climbers are going to give it a go. UPDATE 2: IT’S OVER Andrzej Bargiel : Time to go home UPDATE 1: It seems it’s over for all. Both  Fredrik Sträng’s  and Andrzej Bargiel  have posted on their social media that conditions feel too dangerous. Plus the Polish team training for a winter attempt turned back. Yesterday’s joy today’s frustration. I was very happy to work and climb together with the polish team and climb for summit attempt. Every member in the polish team turned around and it continue reading

Jul 282017
K2 2017 Season Coverage: K2 Summits!!

Perseverance and courage has paid off for Mingma Gyalje Sherpa’s Dreamer Destinations’ team. They put 12 people on the summit of K2 – the first summits since 2014. There was another summit of Broad Peak and Russell Brice, announces he’s ending his guiding career. K2 Summits! I have written a lot this season about risk tolerances, differences of opinions and the willingness to continue when others turn back. So in that environment, Minga deserves tremendous credit for showing the leadership skills to push his members to the summit in what other highly experienced operators determined unacceptable conditions. As I outlined continue reading

Jul 272017
K2 2017 Season Coverage: High Camp Chaos - Update 2

The scene at K2 high camp is disjointed. Some climbers feel it is too dangerous, while others are going for the summit. The route is covered in deep snow and the weather window is tiny so those choosing to stay will have climb fast and efficient and have a lot of luck on their side to avoid a serious disaster. UPDATE 2 The team of 14 (9 Sherpas, 5 westerners) are moving steadily. no word on mountain conditions or weather but the window was forecasted to be short meaning if they summit, they will most likely descend in harsh wind continue reading