Click for site home
The Blog on alanarnette.com
Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Jun 162021
 
Everest 2021: Video Interview with Art Muir - Oldest American Summiter

Art Muir at age 75 became the oldest American to summit Mt. Everest on May 12, 2021, with Maddison Mountaineering. He surpassed Bill Burke who held the American Everest age record for 11 years. Burke summited at age 67 on the Nepal side and again from the Tibet side in 2014 at 72. Japanese mountaineer Yoichiro Miura is the oldest person to summit in 2013 at age 80.

I spoke with Art about his motivation, how his family felt about his plans, his 2019 attempt, prior climbing experience then we got into his training, diet, and experience on the climb. We wrapped up with Art’s thoughts on seniors climbing and staying active.

Jun 102021
 
K2 2021: Interview with Graham Zimmerman - West Ridge

This summer K2 will see a rare event, an attempt on the fully unclimbed West Ridge. Canadian Ian Welsted and American Graham Zimmerman will make an alpine attempt with no oxygen. While the route has been partially climbed three times, the final few hundred meters have never been completed for various reasons. They leave for Pakistan on June 17. After an extensive acclimatization program which may include climbing the 8000er Broad Peak, they hope to summit near the end of July.

May 172021
 
Everest 2021: Video Interview with Lukas Furtenbach After Cancellation

Lukas Furtenbach, of Austrian-based Furtenbach Adventures made global headlines after he canceled his spring 2021 Everest expedition on the Nepal side last Friday. This follows the Chinese decision to cancel their only team on the Tibet side. Meanwhile, the officials responsible for the safety of guests climbing in Nepal deny climbers have COVID at Everest Base Camp. I interviewed Lukas from Everest Base Camp on his Tuesday morning, may 18, 2021. We covered a lot of other topics including:

Planning knowing COVID was a possibility at base camp
Furtenbach Adventure’s COVID protocol from vaccines (members and Sherpas) to time in Kathmandu, Everest Base Camp, and the High Camps
Quarantining members and SHerpas
COVID Testing
Other teams at EBC
Final events leading to the cancellation decision
Getting members and support back home with the airport closed
Donating Furtenbach’s oxygen and bottles to hospitals in Nepal
Pakistan climbing plans (also canceled)
What could have been done differently?
Any regrets?

Apr 202021
 
Author Interview: Jim Davidson - The Next Everest

The regular readers of my blog and social media don’t need an introduction to Jim Davidson. We met in 2001 and have been great friends and climbing partners almost ever since. I consider him a mentor who has taught me a lot about ice and rock climbing, general mountaineering, and life. Recently I had the opportunity to review his new book, “The Next Everest.” Oh my, what a read. Many people are familiar with his first book, “The Ledge,” co-written with Kevin Vaughan. In that book, he walks through the life-changing event on Mt. Rainier where Jim’s climbing partner and continue reading

Mar 292021
 
Everest 2021: Video Interview  with Dave Roskelley - The Volcanic Seven Summits and the High Point on the Moon in a Tesla

Talking about the Volcanic Seven Summits and the High Point on the Moon in a Tesla with Dave Roskelley is the only American to have climbed the Seven Summits (Messner list) AND the Volcanic Seven Summits. We talk about the why, when, where, and how plus his next big project – to take a Tesla to the high point on the Moon!!!

Everest 2021: Video Interview with Ryan Waters – Everest and Polar Bears

 Comments Off on Everest 2021: Video Interview with Ryan Waters – Everest and Polar Bears
Mar 262021
 
Everest 2021: Video Interview with Ryan Waters - Everest and Polar Bears

Who else can you discuss summiting Mt. Everest and dodging polar bears with other than Ryan Waters, of Mountain Professionals? I grabbed Ryan just before he left for Everest 2021. We talked about Everest, of course, and COVID, quarantine, and the confusion around photographs taking and sharing. But we also went into his polar trips to the North and South Poles and his encounters with Polar Bears!!! Scary stuff!!

Everest 2021: Video Interview with Sherpani Climbing Record Holder, Maya Sherpa

 Comments Off on Everest 2021: Video Interview with Sherpani Climbing Record Holder, Maya Sherpa
Mar 242021
 
Everest 2021: Video Interview with Sherpani Climbing Record Holder, Maya Sherpa

It’s rare to catch Maya Sherpa for an interview but I did as she was leaving for a double 8000-meter climb of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri. She holds the record for most 8000ers for a Nepali female at 6 with Everest, Lhotse, Manaslu, Kanchenjunga, Cho Oyu, and K2. We talked about how a girl from rural Nepal broke into the male-dominated world of mountaineering, not only as a climber but also as a guide. She talked about her now 11-year-old daughter and how she wants to use their climbing to inspire others, especially this next generation of young ladies. An informative and inspirational interview with something for everyone. Enjoy!