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The two expeditions left on the 8000ers this winter, both on Everest, are starting their final pushes. One is already in the midst.  The wildcard, as always, will be the weather and this week’s forecast has a few short windows, but nothing ideal, especially in winter. Wind chills are consistently forecasted around -50F/C, the limit for most climbers. Everest Jost on West Ridge – Nearing the West Ridge, Time running out German alpinist, Jost Kobuschh’s is at his high point for this expedition, 7,329-meters/23,750-feet at his C2 according to his tracker. But the last reported location was Saturday, February 22, at 6:16 continue reading

Denis Urbuko ended his winter Broad Peak effort after reaching 7000m, getting hit by an avalanche. Spaniard Oscar Cardo on Alex Txikon’s team evacuated from Everest C2 with some form of AMS. Controversy over the early termination of the K2 expedition. Broad Peak – Over – Hit by Avalanche Denis Urubko ended his summit bid citing several issues. His message to his partner Maria Cardell: I am in BC, no summit but survived despite some incidents Wind was 70-80 km at the top. An avalanche slide me for 100 m, then I fall down with a broken fixed rope for continue reading

I was quite surprised when I read the news from John Snorri that their winter K2 attempt had come to a sudden halt and all members had flown back to Askole. I’ve known the expedition leader, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa‘s and his Imagine Nepal guide company for years and highly respect his skills and leadership ability. The big picture is the expedition was delayed arriving at K2 Base Caamp by deep snow on the Baltoro glacier. The extreme cold temps below -30C/-22F took a toll on humans, supplies, and gear. They lacked K2 Winter experience to fully understand the challenge as they continue reading

The good news is it is a bit warmer on both Everest and Broad Peak, the bad news, it’s too windy to climb. Time is running out for Urbuko on Broad Peak. Porters are coming on February 20. Everest Txikon on Southeast Ridge – Holding at EBC Alex Txikon and team were hoping to leave EBC for Camp 3 or even 4 at the South Col but high winds at EBC flattened tents and gave them pause about conditions higher. So they are holding for a bit more. Txikon’s posted this update on Facebook and Twitter As we mentioned yesterday, Everest can continue reading

Cold has hampered the remaining expeditions, two on Everest and one on Broad Peak. However, this week looks better for Everest but still mind-numbing wind chills on BP.   Broad Peak Denis Urubko was thought to go on his summit pus solo this weekend but stayed at base camp due to weather. The porters are trekking to BC to take all the gear back to Askole so his time is running out. Hopefully he will get a couple of days window of low winds to make his attempt but this forecast from Meteoexploration is not encouraging: Denis Urubko’s goal is to continue reading