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Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Feb 272015

Welcome to Alan Arnette’s Everest 2015 coverage

My coverage is based on my own summit and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest.  I will be climbing Lhotse thus will be reporting from Everest Base Camp this year with all the regular features plus videos and interviews directly from the mountain as it happens.

As part of my Alzheimer’s advocacy work, I am encouraging everyone to enroll in the Alzheimer’s Prevention Registry. 80% of all clinical trails fail due to lack of volunteers. The Registry strives to overcome that hurdle by engaging people 18 and older of all races and ethnicities who are committed to ending Alzheimer’s, whether or not they have a family history of the disease.

From simple questionnaires and surveys, to brain imaging studies and even pharmaceutical trials to evaluate investigational medications and therapies, the Registry offers members many ways in which to participate. Joining the Registry does not obligate you to take part in a study or clinical trial.

I have made the personal commitment and joined the registry.


Latest Everest News – March 28 2015

The season is rapidly approaching under the scrutiny of the world’s media after the 2014 tragic season which ended early. If you want your blog or team tracked, please contact me.

  • Traditional South Side teams are at same client levels as 2014.
  • Climbers streaming into Kathmandu, some already on the trek to Everest Base Camp
  • Looks like no entry issues this year for those climbing from Tibet
  • Nepal government has approved extending 2014 Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse permits to 2019. Original permit owner must climb with same company and pay an additional $1,000.
  • Links are being updated for 2015 as soon as they are available from the source
  • A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who joins the Registry or makes a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits.
  • Manage email notifications of new posts using the form in the lower right corner of this page

South Col Route (map)

Everest only TEAMS (clients/western guides)
Facebook for AC TwitterforAC Adventure Consultants (9/2)
Facebook for AG Twitterfor AG Adventures Global
Facebook for AAI Twitter for AAI Alpine Ascents Int.
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI Arnold Coster Expeditions
Asian Trekking Eco Teams
Altitude Junkies
Facebook for MT Twitter for PF Benegas Brothers
Exploradus Expedition
Facebook for IMG Himex
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF IMG Classic (15/0)
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF IMG Hybrid
Facebook for JG Twitter for PF Jagged Globe (9/2)
Facebook for MT Twitter for PF RMI (6/2)
Madison Mountaineering (12/4)
Facebook for IMG Mountain Gurus
Facebook for IMG Saatori Expeditions
Sean Wisedale
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Summit Climb
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Tim Mosedale
Trek 8848
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF 360 Expeditions

Northeast Ridge Route (map)

TEAMS (clients/western guides)
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI Asian Trekking
Facebook for AG Twitterfor AG Alpenglow
Adventure Peaks
British Army
Kari Kobler
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Summit Climb
7 Summits Club
e=climb ended, x=last reported location, x+ =on summit bid, -x =descending h=high sleep point, t=touched not slept. Summit number=client/Sherpa. Locations estimated from public website. Please refer to each expedition’s site for current information. Contact me to add/remove your team from my coverage.

I did similar coverage for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013 and 2014 seasons. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011 and have climbed Everest four times – 2002, 2003, 2008 and 2011.

If you will forgive the self promotion, Outside Magazine posted in February 2013 an extensive interview with me where I talk abut my childhood, mountains, Everest and of course Alzheimer’s. I appreciate their interest and help. They even said I was “one of the world’s most respected chronicler of Everest”

If you receive value from my annual Everest coverage, please consider a donation to one of these Alzheimer’s nonprofits, 100% for Alzheimer’s, none for me. thank you. Click this link to understand my personal journey with this disease

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Everest 2015: Team Locations
Mar 272015
Everest 2015: Teams Streaming into the Khumbu

With April 1 just around the corner, it looks like business as usual on Everest. Team after team are updating their websites, blogs, Facebook and Twitter feeds saying the weather is good in the Khumbu and they have had little problems thus far. Apparently Kathmandu had heavy rain last night and fog this morning thus delaying a lot of flights to Lukla, but again, this is somewhat normal. Oxygen suppliers tell me they are having record sales and the permit process appears to be smooth. It is still too early to make the same conclusion about teams climbing from Tibet continue reading

Mar 262015
Everest 2015: Climbs to Watch

Every year, Everest attracts climbers wanting to do something out of the ordinary and 2015 will be no different. This is a quick overview of some of the ambitious plans from climbers all around the globe: Rarely Climbed North-Northeast Ridge Canadian Raphael Slawinski will be attempting a different route with two German friends, David Goettler and Daniel Bartsch with no Sherpas or Os. source N-NE (Zakharov’s) Couloir: May 20, 1996- Russians Peter Kuznetzov, Valeri Kohanov, and Grigori Semikolenkov climb the Zakharov Couloir to the top of the North Ridge, and then follow the NE Ridge to the summit.  source Speed Climb Kilian continue reading

Mar 222015
Everest 2015: Style Matters

The word “style” is a personal description of how one goes about an activity, a task, a sport. In climbing, the word style is loaded and used for both offense and defense. As the Everest season begins, many in the climbing world will decry how Everest is climbed calling it not in “good style”. Their primary complaints includes the use of Sherpas, fixed ropes and oxygen. They feel the mountain should climbed with little to no support, on the own terms of the mountain itself. This is far from a new complaint in climbing. As documented in the excellent film, continue reading

Mar 132015
Everest 2015: Getting in the Everest Mindset

I closed my eyes for a moment as I made my way up another Colorado 14,000 foot mountain. For that instance, I saw myself on the Lhotse Face taking one calculated step after another, moving my jumar higher, occasionally looking up to see what was ahead. I had transported myself into the future. By now, mid March 2015, this practice had become commonplace as I trained for the world’s fourth highest peak, Lhotse at 27,940 feet or 8516 meters.  I know the route well from my Everest, K2 and other climbs. I had learned from my previous climbs that preparing continue reading

Mar 082015
Everest 2015: The Reality of Everest

I’m noticing the seasonal increase in articles about Everest with the usual topics of trash, crowds, rich and famous, punters and more. The famous outdoor magazines are creating their spreads along with other media outlets finishing up stock stories to be printed at a moment’s notice, regardless of the facts. I have been contacted by many for background and fact checks. Sadly, we define facts in different ways. So, I thought I would take a few moments and give, from my perspective, a few headlines on the realities of Everest based on my coverage and four climbs since 2002 – continue reading

Mar 022015
Everest 2015: The Right Gear

With a month before most climbers arrive in Nepal to begin their Everest climb, gear decisions have been made, but I thought it might be good to submit a few last minute ideas. As I pack for Lhotse, I will use the same gear I used in 2011 to summit Everest since they share 80% of the same route, however I will make a few changes. I like to think of Everest, in terms of gear, in four stages: Trek to Base Camp Base Camp life Acclimatization Rotations Summit Bid If you have looked at my gear list, you will continue reading

Feb 232015
Lhotse 2015: A Personal Commitment

In early April, I’m returning to Nepal, the Himalaya and to the Everest region. This will be my 11th trip since 1997 and I will be climbing the world’s fourth highest mountain, Lhotse at 27,940 feet or 8516 meters. As always, I will use my attempt to bring awareness to Alzheimer’s Disease but this time not only for donations to research but to ask readers and followers to join the Alzheimer’s Prevention Registry. A Personal Commitment The day my mom, Ida, asked me “Who are you?” was the day my life changed forever. I made a personal commitment to do continue reading

Feb 212015
The "New" Route on Everest

This past week, there has been extensive media coverage of a “new” route on Everest. Once again, shallow journalism has misstated reality. The fact is that there is not a totally new route but rather a small change within the Khumbu Icefall that amounts to about 4% of the traditional Southeast Ridge route being effected. The BBC is mostly responsible for this headline with their article and other outlets picking it up and simply parroting the story. In the first version, since changed, the BBC article, as I read it, suggested the route would no longer traverse through the Icefall continue reading

Feb 132015
Everest 2015: Permit Status for 2014 Climbers - Updated

Updated March 19, 2015 After 11 months of delay, Nepal finally approves permit extension to 2019 for ‪Everest , Lhotse and Nuptse permit holders from the Spring of 2014 climbers. They must climb with their 2014 company (not members), and pay additional $1,000 to match the current $11,000 permit fee. Questions remain for 2015 climbers who are eligible if they will get a refund since many have already paid. Thanks to Rajan Pokhrel at The Himalayan for this story. If this timing was designed to delay 2014 climbers to 2016 to avoid “crowding”, it only partially worked since many 2014 continue reading

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