Click for site home
The Blog on alanarnette.com
Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Mar 012019
 
Everest 2019: Team Locations and Headlines

LATEST HEADLINE APRIL 24: Quiet Wednesday Welcome to the 2019 edition of Alan Arnette’s annual coverage of the Everest climbing season. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge and reward of climbing Everest. It’s based on my own three Everest attempts and my 2011 summit plus my climbing experiences of a K2 summit in 2014, Manaslu in 2013 and 30+ more peaks around the world. My reporting uses my own research, sources, and public information. Click for the complete Everest 2019 coverage Current Headlines Annapurna climber, Wui Kin Chin, missing after summiting Fixed continue reading

Apr 242019
 
Everest 2019:Remembering The Day Nepal Shook

April 25 is always a difficult day in Nepal. This year, 2019, marks the fourth anniversary of the deadly 7.8 magnitude earthquake that occurred in Nepal taking 9,000 lives, including 19 at Everest Base Camp.  I’m sure there will be many services, memorials and simple quiet moments to honor those who died, and keep their memories alive. I wrote this narrative a few years ago about my own experience that day. I was going between Camp 1 and Camp 2 when the quake hit. It’s a moment in my life, I will never forget. So no big update today on what’s continue reading

Apr 242019
 
Everest 2019: Missing Annapurna Climber and Quiet on Everest

Its pretty much business as usual on both sides of Everest. There were a few moderate sized earthquakes in Tibet and Nepal but they had no impact on Everest. Quakes are a part of daily life around there. Headlines Sad news after a record 32 summits on Annapurna that Malaysian climber Wui Kin Chin is missing after summiting. An air search is schedule but has not yet happened due to bureaucratic delays. Progress on the summit rope fixing on both sides. On the Nepal side, the Sherpa team has reached C3 on the Lhotse Face according to Garrett Madison of Madison continue reading

Apr 232019
 
Everest 2019: Camp 2 Mirage

We have our first 8000-meter summits of the season, on Annapurna. On Everest, all continues to go smoothly as teams move higher on both sides. Headlines Everest Teams on both sides are sleeping at camps above base camp. Weather continues to be good but expected to take a dive on Tuesday night with some snow, but nothing they can’t handle. Reports of China Telecom being down and bit slow on the Tibet side but up and running now. EverestLink still seems slower than in previous years. Look for the news to be light while teams are at high camps. In continue reading

Apr 222019
 
Everest 2019: Monday Crevasse Fall

As we enter the last full week of April, acclimatization becomes very serious. There was a bit of snow to start the week, a fall into a crevasse and teams making plans. In other words, a normal Monday on Everest. Headlines The week started very much on schedule with teams on both sides moving to the first high camps. A few had their Puja over the week and others reached 6,400-meters/21,000-feet to sleep. The Nepal Tourism Ministry updated their permit numbers to 375 on Everest, and 803 on all Nepal peaks. There are 92 Lhotse permits. Movement on the North continue reading

Apr 212019
 
Everest 2019: Weekend Update April 21

As we close out the third full week of the 2019 season, all is well on both sides of Everest. No major incidents and all systems, except for EverestLink, seems to be up and running, but they seem to have their links worked out. Each weekend during the season I’ll post a “Weekend Update” summarizing the main stories for the past week. Also, now that the season is well underway, I’ll strive to post my daily updates for all #everest2019 each day before noon, Mountain Daylight Time, GMT -7. Headlines A quick rundown on who is where. For a complete continue reading

Apr 202019
 
Everest 2019: Facing Fears

All seems to be good on Everest this weekend. As usual, the weather comes and goes but overall about normal for mid-April. The real question is what will occur between May 15 and 25 when the traditional summit windows opens. Will it be like last year with 11 consecutive days or a nightmare like 2012 with less than five. Perhaps somewhere in the middle would be nice. We will just have to wait and see. Headlines Yaks and Sherpas and a couple of members have made it to Intermediate Camp on the Tibet side and soon will be moving into continue reading

Apr 192019
 
Everest 2019: Sleeping In The Cwm!

We now have members of several teams sleeping in the Western Cwm on the Nepal side. Over in Tibet, Sherpas are sleeping at the Intermediate camp as they prepare to begin building ABC. Looks like members will begin their two day journey to ABC in a couple of days. Headlines Members aka clients aka climbers aka people are starting to get into the groove. I love this post from Chad Gaston who is doing a great job with his blog. Witty writing and great pictures – a must add to your daily reading list. He climbing with Madison Mountaineering: Some other fun continue reading

Apr 182019
 
Everest 2019: Climbing!!

A short spell of big winds and heavy snow has now moved off both sides of Everest and teams are now preparing to begin their first rotations on the Nepal side. Over in Tibet, no word on when the rope team will begin to fix that route. Traditionally, they start later but seem to catch up quickly. Headlines Its crowded! Nepal has issued a record 374 climbing permits to foreigners as of 16 April. Last nationality count had 87 from India, 68 – US, 62 – China, 42 – UK and 12 – Nepali national as the top countries represented. EverestER continue reading

Apr 162019
 
Everest 2019: First Impressions

Both sides of Everest are buzzing with activity. In Nepal they are training, and a few have actually climbed through the Icefall to Camp 1. On the Tibet side, there is a building boom with team after team putting their array of tents. Headlines Looks like the good people running EverestLink are aware and have addressed slow WiFi speed at EBC. Their General Manager told me “It was slow for 2 days prior to yesterday, caused by some malfunctioning at a power station. It has been corrected now.”  However, I’m still seeing reports as of slow speeds so I’m not continue reading