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Jan 222017
 
Everest Winter Attempt Reaches Camp 3 - Member Evacuated

Alex Txikon’s team reached Camp 3 at 6917m on the Lhotse Face but team member 28 year old Spanish climber, Carlos Rubio, was evacuated by Helicopter with lung inflammation. Txikon posted on Facebook: From the C3 of Everest I send all my strength to Carlos Rubio Infante Muñiz great companion and friend who has had to be evacuated to a hospital in Kathmandu because of a lung inflammatory process. He is stable and I know he is fine, but from here we miss him a lot, since he has worked like a champion and I am really proud of him. Tomorrow we continue reading

Jan 142017
 
Everest Winter Attempt Reaches Camp 1

Alex Txikon’s team and Sherpas have established the route through the Khumbu Icefall and have tagged Camp 1 at the entrance to the Western CWM. He reports they are moving well and climbing fast. Their Camp 1 is at 6040 meters, about 100 meters higher the normal location but it varies each season depending on avalanche danger off the West Shoulder of Everest and Nuptse to the south. He noted that the temperature at -30C/-22F. Txikon posted on his blog: After four stages of work equipping The Khumbu icefall yesterday that the wind gave us a window of good conditions, we ascended and spent the night continue reading

Dec 302016
 
Everest by the Numbers: 2017 Edition

For those who follow Everest closely, the arrival of the official summit numbers is always a milestone. The Himalayan Database was updated with the latest summit statistics on December 6, 2016. This post is a nice complement to my recent updated post on “How Much Does it Cost to Climb Mt. Everest“. The Database contains the summit records for almost all of the Himalayan peaks located in Nepal from 1905 to present day and is maintained by a small team of devotees lead by the legendary Ms. Elizabeth Hawley out of Kathmandu and published by the American Alpine Club. See this wonderful continue reading

Dec 182016
 
How Much Does it Cost to Climb Mount Everest? - 2017 Edition

“How much does it cost to climb Mount Everest?” This is a popular question I get after a speaking engagement. The short answer is a car or at least $30,000 but most people pay about $45,000. This completely new 2017 post introduces new options for climbers, a look at new rules, a chart of current offers and serious answers to serious questions plus a few survey questions where you can weigh in with your thoughts in addition to making a thoughtful comment. If you dream of climbing mountains but are not sure how to start or reach your next level from a Colorado 14er to continue reading

Dec 172016
 
Everest Winter, No O's Attempt!

A huge program has been announced by Alex Txikon who may be one of the few climbers on the planet qualified to attempt climbing Everest in the winter without supplemental oxygen. He and teammates, Simone Moro and Muhammad Ali Sadpara knocked off Nanga Parbat last winter leaving on K2 as the last 8000er without a winter summit. An effort for a winter K2 summit by Polish climber Krzysztof Wielicki was canceled due to lack of funds. As for Everest, Txikon announced on his website that he and a small team will arrive in Nepal on Christmas day to begin a two month effort to summit continue reading

Dec 162016
 
I Want to Climb Mt. Everest

“I Want to Climb Mt. Everest” is one of the top hits I get for my website and in emails. I understand. In this post, I will cover what it takes and a path to get there, with the disclaimer that there are many paths to reach any destination. I will cover the cost at the end of this post, but I know that many readers believe if they can afford it, they can do it – what a huge mistake regardless of if you spend $25,000 or $125,000. My basic philosophy is that a climb should be a positive continue reading

Nov 222016
 
China to Make Everest Base Camp Into Tourist Destination

For as long as Everest has been climbed, there has been a competition between China and Nepal. Now with China’s recent announcement of building a “mountaineering center” near Everest base camp, climbing Everest from Tibet will have little to do with climbing and more to do with tourism. Please keep this fact in mind as you read my thoughts: The 2022 Winter Olympics will be in Beijing. The last time China hosted the Olympics in 2008, they closed their side of the mountain and placed armed guards on the Nepal side to quash any disruption. Based on previous actions, it is safe to assume China does continue reading

Nov 142016
 
The State of Everest: A Conversation with Dave Hahn

With only six months to go before climbers head to Nepal and Tibet for the annual spring climb of Mt. Everest, Dave Hahn, 15 times summiter, was kind enough to share his thoughts on the state of Everest and his own personal plans for guiding. Dave Hahn One reason I wanted to catch up with Dave, was his comment in interviews earlier this year that he would stop leading Everest expeditions and instead offer private guidance on the mountain. I’ve known him for over 10 years and wondered if this was a reflection on the state of Everest or a personal life choice for continue reading

Oct 052016
 
Nobukazu Kuriki on Everest Summit Push - Updated: Its Over

UPDATE: 13 OCt ’16: It appears Nobukazu Kuriki has ended his Everest attempt from Tibet via the Hornbein Couloir or the normal route. He posted on Facebook he spent 11 days at Camp1 (normal route) and also experienced waist deep snow on the North Face. Also high winds were buffeting Everest creating concern for safety and success. He was climbing alone and without supplemental oxygen. UPDATE: 7 Oct 2016: It seems that Nobukazu Kuriki has ended his Everest summit push somewhere between 6800m and 7400m on the North Face due to “condition of the snow and physical condition”. He left open another attempt continue reading

Aug 182016
 
2016 Summer and Autumn Everest Attempts

After a record breaking Spring season on Everest, the mountain will see no rest this summer and now autumn. Summer: Kilian Jornet As I previously reported, Spanish speed climber Kilian Jornet will attempt to set a speed record by climbing from the Rongbuk Monastery (Tibet) to the summit in a single push. He expects to take around 20 hours to summit and about 35 hours to descend. Kilian and his three partners are already in Tibet.  He expects to start the climb in a few weeks. Autumn: Nobukazu Kuriki And now Japanese climber, Nobukazu Kuriki, will return for his sixth autumn (post-monsoon), no O’s, climbing alone, attempt on Everest. continue reading