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Welcome to Alan Arnette’s Everest 2013 coverage

My coverage is based on my own experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest.

Latest Everest News – May 17/18, 2013

David Liano summits from North, last week summited from South. 1^st person to ever do this.
Summits are starting to roll in from Jagged Globe and Peak Freaks reporting the top at 5:29 AM Sunday May 19
Mike Roberts and Tendi Sherpa, Adventure Consultants, have summited very early 1:30AM, usual is 5-9AM
120 are behind them
Follow a Peak Freaks Everest summit live via SPOT tracker at bit.ly/10EKSoF
Also Dan Hughes with Jagged Globe at http://bit.ly/13xfOJb
Successful summits on Nuptse by 5 Western Climbers and 4 Sherpa team from Himex
Himex leave EBC looking at May 23rd summit

South Col Route (map)
	Everest only TEAMS (clients/western guides) 29 teams, 315 climbers, 500+ Sherpas/Staff	EBC	C1	C2	C3	C4/SC	Summits (climbers/Sherpas)
	Adventure Consultants (10/4)			X+	T		1/2
	Adventures Global (5/0)			X+	H		1/1
	Alpenglow					-X	2/4
	Alpine Ascents Int. (12/3)			-X		X+	12/14
	Asian Trekking Eco Teams (10/0) (10/0)					X+	1/3
	Berg Adventures (3/0)	e					2/2
	Himalayan Ascent	e					1/2
	Himex (12/2)			X+	H		1/1
	IMG Classic (14?/1?)			X+	X+		/2
	IMG Hybrid (8?/2?)			-X			4/7
	Jagged Globe (10/2)					X+
	Mountain Trip (3/1)			X+	H
	RMI (3/2)			X+	T
	Patagonia Brothers(2/1)			X+	H
	Peak Freaks (8/3)					X+
	Pune Indian (6)	e					3/?
	Rolwaling (7/2)			X+	H
	Summit Climb (6/1)					X+
	Tim Mosedale (6/1)	X					2/2
	USAF 7 Summits				X+
	others	X		X+	X+	X+	15
	SOUTH TOTAL (est)						83
Northeast Ridge Route (map)
	TEAMS (clients/western guides) 10 teams, 100 climbers/125+ Sherpas/Staff	CBC	ABC	C1/NC	C2	C3	Summits (climbers/Sherpas)
	AMICAL (4/0)			X+
	Asian Trekking (5/0)			X+	X+	X+	1/1
	Adventure Peaks (9/2)		X+	H
	Altitude Junkies (10/1)			X+
	Kobler & Partner		X+	H
	Summit Climb (15/1)		X+	H
	7 Summits Club (13/4)			X+	X+	X+
	others	X	X+	X+	X+	X+	/20 est.
	NORTH TOTAL (est)						22
e=climb ended, x=last reported location, x+ =on summit bid, -x =descending h=high sleep point, t=touched not slept. Summit number=client/Sherpa. Locations estimated from public website. Please refer to each expedition’s site for current information. Contact me to add/remove your team from my coverage.

See the legend just above this line for the table symbols – X, H, T
This page only list the 2013 team locations, click here for the daily 2013 coverage.
If you have a general Everest question, please post it as a comment on this page and I will try to address it.
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I did similar coverage for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010 and 2012 seasons. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011 and have climbed Everest four times – 2002, 2003, 2008 and 2011.

If you will forgive the self promotion, Outside Magazine posted in February 2013 an extensive interview with me where I talk abut my childhood, mountains, Everest and of course Alzheimer’s. I appreciate their interest and help. They even said I was “one of the world’s most respected chronicler of Everest”

If you receive value from my annual Everest coverage, please consider a donation to one of these Alzheimer’s nonprofits, 100% for Alzheimer’s, none for me. thank you. Click this link to understand my personal journey with this disease

6 Confirmed 2013 deaths

Mingma Sherpa, 47, from Lukla, working as Icefall Doctor slipped into crevasse in Western Cwm.
DaRita Sherpa, 37, from Phortse working for IMG died from sudden cardiac or cerebral event at Camp 3. Family fund at this link
Sergey Ponomarev climbing with 7 Summits Club died at Advanced Base Camp on the north side presumably of a heart attack.
Lobsang Sherpa, 27,from Kharikhola working for Seven Summits Treks fell down Lhotse Face.
Alexey Bolotov, 50, from Russia, has died from a fall. He was climbing with Denis Urubko on a new route on SW Face
Namgyal Sherpa, 35, Kathmandu and Bangdel Khotang, died on North Side

Please click this link for the discussion page including on the Simone More/Sherpa Conflict.

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120 on Summit push Saturday May 18th Summits Sunday May 19th early morning Update 3: This just in from Asian Trekking: Congratulations !!! Great news. Asian Trekking’s International Everest member David Liano and Sirdar Mingma Sherpa summited Mt.Everest this morning at 4:35 am Nepal time. David Liano is now the first person to complete the double in one climbing season. Asian Trekking family extends hearty congratulations to them and wishes for the safe descent. Summits are starting to roll in with members from Jagged Globe plus Sean Mooney and Pho Temba Sherpa,Peak Freaks, reporting the top at 5:29 Update 2: continue reading

Everest has finally developed a rhythm with climbers on both side steadily going to the top and returning. There are no reports of excessive lines or complaints of crowding. It looks like the team leaders have done a nice job of learning from 2012. The winds finally calmed down although there were gusts from time to time, the conditions were reported to be almost perfect with clear skies and manageable temperatures. On Friday night many left the South Col and summited as early as 5:00AM and some around 9:00AM. The commercial teams of IMG with 3 clients, 1 guide, 7 continue reading

Everest 2013: Summit Wave 3, Sherpa Death - Update 2

Update 2: Multiple summits on Friday night from the commercial teams of IMG 3 clients, 1 guide, 7 Sherpas and Alpine Ascents putting 9 clients, 3 guides, and 12 Sherpas. Alpenglow: 1 client, 1 guide, 2 Sherpa Update 1.5: Summits pushes underway leaving the South Col at 8:00PM. Winds are reported to be less than last night. Teams are reported above Balcony and heading towards South Summit in good conditions. Once again, I start an update with the death of a Sherpa. Namgyal Sherpa reportedly has died at 8300 meters on the North side on Friday. There are few continue reading

Today was a case study in approaches to climbing Everest. The weather forecast called for diminishing winds on Thursday, May 16 and that held true as teams left for the summit around 9:00 PM. But as the IMG team made their way up the Triangular Face between the South Col and the Balcony, they were hit by high winds and freezing fog. They reported a cloud cap over the summit and turned back. They are currently in their tents at the South Col along with several other teams who choose not to go last night. They are expected to attempt continue reading

Update 3: Climbers from Pune and Berg have summited in what must have been tough conditions. They should be starting their decent around 9:00AM local time. No details on numbers and names yet. Congratulations to all. Update 2: Well it looks like the mountain had other ideas tonight and teams are turning back due to tough conditions. Eric Simonson, IMG, just posted this: Greg and Jangbu report from Base Camp that the South Col team started out for the summit, but that once they got up onto the Triangular Face, the mountain formed a cloud cap with rime ice and continue reading

Knowing a fellow climber had died the day before, it was time to focus on safety and Wednesday nights climbers were forced to make some tough decisions. The winds were predicted to lessen starting on May 16, but several teams climbed to the South Col on the 15th hoping to get a jump on the crowds. However, the winds held fast last night. Meanwhile several more teams moved to Camp 2 on the South preparing to go for the summit over the next few days. Over 120 climbers are looking at attempting the summit just on May 19th. This is continue reading

Everest 2013: Winds Calm but Shocking Death of Alexey Bolotov - Updated

Early reports are in that Alexey Bolotov, has died near Camp 1 in the Western CWM. He was climbing with Denis Urubko on a new route on SW Face. It appears he was climbing towards the West Ridge but his body was reported to have been found near the top of the Khumbu Icefall at 5600m. Details are always difficult at this point but we have this direct quote from Denis Urubko as he told mountain.ru this: I do not know how to write this. Alexey Bolotov to descend on a rope. Due to scroll on a sharp rock edge continue reading

This season is turning out to be somewhat normal, well at least with respect to weather. April was bit windier and snowy than usual but now as we approach mid May, the jet stream is cooperating by moving away from the summit and teasing climbers with forecasts of calm winds perfect for a climb to the top of the world. The only rub seems to be the temperatures are a bit cold, but it is the top of the world! The teams who summited yesterday are all back down at Camp 2 after threading the needle. Again, congratulations. As for continue reading

A few bold climbers actually summited in harsh conditions early Monday morning, but most teams are patiently waiting. I will update this page throughout today as I get more information. I hesitate to mention this but at the moment teams are becoming optimistic as a nice long summit window appears to be emerging for May 17th – 24th with almost calm summit winds near the end. If this week long window emerges, it will allow all the teams to attempt the summit in an orderly manner, thus reducing the risk of crowds and long waits at the regular bottlenecks on continue reading

Alan Arnette on Everest 2013: Summit Wave 4 – Update 3Thanks Ginny. I sincerely appreciate your kind comments and wish safe climbing for everyone today. Also, thank you for your
Ginny Lyford on Everest 2013: Summit Wave 4 – Update 3Alan..... I truly love your EVEREST coverage year after year. I want to especially thank you for your personal input,
Wayne Clark on Everest 2013: Summit Wave 4 – Update 3kind of sounds like one of my hikes ,,,, 8o)
Bashar Dahabra on Everest 2013: Summit Wave 4 – Update 3Hello Alan, Just wanted to highlight to you and all readers of your blog that today we had the first
Alan Arnette on Everest 2013: Summit Wave 3, Sherpa Death – Update 2Thanks all. And best to all our climbers up there. Agnes, Nelson is in great hands but you remind me

The Blog on alanarnette.com

Everest 2013 Team Locations – sticky

Welcome to Alan Arnette’s Everest 2013 coverage

South Col Route (map)

Northeast Ridge Route (map)

6 Confirmed 2013 deaths

Everest 2013: Summit Wave 4 – Update 3

Everest 2013: Summit Wave 3 Recap

Everest 2013: Summit Wave 3, Sherpa Death – Update 2

Everest 2013: Summit Wave 2 Recap

Everest 2013: Summit Wave 2 – Update 3

Everest 2013: Delayed Summits and More

Everest 2013: Winds Calm but Shocking Death of Alexey Bolotov – Updated

Everest 2013: Moving Up

Everest 2013: Summits and Waiting