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Nov 222016
China to Make Everest Base Camp Into Tourist Destination

For as long as Everest has been climbed, there has been a competition between China and Nepal. Now with China’s recent announcement of building a “mountaineering center” near Everest base camp, climbing Everest from Tibet will have little to do with climbing and more to do with tourism. Please keep this fact in mind as you read my thoughts: The 2022 Winter Olympics will be in Beijing. The last time China hosted the Olympics in 2008, they closed their side of the mountain and placed armed guards on the Nepal side to quash any disruption. Based on previous actions, it is safe to assume China does continue reading

Nov 142016
The State of Everest: A Conversation with Dave Hahn

With only six months to go before climbers head to Nepal and Tibet for the annual spring climb of Mt. Everest, Dave Hahn, 15 times summiter, was kind enough to share his thoughts on the state of Everest and his own personal plans for guiding. Dave Hahn One reason I wanted to catch up with Dave, was his comment in interviews earlier this year that he would stop leading Everest expeditions and instead offer private guidance on the mountain. I’ve known him for over 10 years and wondered if this was a reflection on the state of Everest or a personal life choice for continue reading

Oct 052016
Nobukazu Kuriki on Everest Summit Push - Updated: Its Over

UPDATE: 13 OCt ’16: It appears Nobukazu Kuriki has ended his Everest attempt from Tibet via the Hornbein Couloir or the normal route. He posted on Facebook he spent 11 days at Camp1 (normal route) and also experienced waist deep snow on the North Face. Also high winds were buffeting Everest creating concern for safety and success. He was climbing alone and without supplemental oxygen. UPDATE: 7 Oct 2016: It seems that Nobukazu Kuriki has ended his Everest summit push somewhere between 6800m and 7400m on the North Face due to “condition of the snow and physical condition”. He left open another attempt continue reading

Aug 182016
2016 Summer and Autumn Everest Attempts

After a record breaking Spring season on Everest, the mountain will see no rest this summer and now autumn. Summer: Kilian Jornet As I previously reported, Spanish speed climber Kilian Jornet will attempt to set a speed record by climbing from the Rongbuk Monastery (Tibet) to the summit in a single push. He expects to take around 20 hours to summit and about 35 hours to descend. Kilian and his three partners are already in Tibet.  He expects to start the climb in a few weeks. Autumn: Nobukazu Kuriki And now Japanese climber, Nobukazu Kuriki, will return for his sixth autumn (post-monsoon), no O’s, climbing alone, attempt on Everest. continue reading

Aug 032016
Summer Everest Speed Climb - Updated

Update 12 August 2016 Kilian Jornet and team have completed their accilization with 4 days in Nepal’s Langtang valley and will now fly to Lhasa. It should take them a few days to drive to the Rongbuk Monastery, s rest up and perhaps begin their Everest speed attempt in mid to late August depending on weather. If the headline made you look, then you are an Everest fan. 95% of all Everest summits occur in the Spring, almost exclusively from mid to late May – after the winter snows and just before the annual monsoonal rains. A paltry 0.1% of all summits since continue reading

Jul 192016
2016 Edition: Nepal to Limit Everest Climbers through New Rules ... Again!

For those of you who follow Everest, each year the Nepal government announces new rules to make Everest safer and less crowded and safer. Thus it is time for the 2016 edition as announced in the newspaper The Himalayan Times from our good friend Rajan Pokhrel. These are similar to one announced last year but there is a thought that they could go thru this time because, believe it or not, the government is more stable. New Rules, Bad Concepts In looking at the 2016 edition, there are a few problems. While I agree requiring prior experience on a 7000m continue reading

Jul 032016
Summit Fraud on Everest?

How can a climber get a summit certificate and not summit? Well apparently all that is needed is a current summit photo and basic skills with Photoshop. Before I get into this year’s post-season controversy, let’s get this out of the way – climbers cheat, cyclists cheat, baseball/football/basketball/soccer players and even entire countries cheat in the Olympics. So holding any one of these segments as holier than thou is a mistake at and naive at worst. AND it does not make one single cheater correct or absolve them of their false claim. Indian Couple Claims 1st Everest Summit So this year’s media frenzy is continue reading

Jun 222016
Can a Vegan Summit Everest?

Can diet be an indicator of success on Everest? This past year, the tragic death and subsequent focus on Maria (Marissa) Strydom’s desire to ‘prove vegans can do anything” created a tremendous amount of headlines around diet for climbers and in many cases lead to shameful ridicule of her beliefs and practices. Meanwhile other climbers claiming to be vegans, have quietly summited Everest thus proving Ms. Strydom’s theory. This brief post is not intended to advocate any lifestyle or delve deeply into being a vegan but more to shed some light on being a vegan, vegetarian or carnivore and climbing. Pure Vegan? Kuntal Joisher summited on continue reading

Jun 162016
A Personal Letter to Everest 2016, and 2017, Summiteers

“I want to climb Everest, but there is so much negative press about it. I don’t want to add to the problems.”, she added with genuine concern as I was having coffee this week with two 20 something aspiring climbers. Her statement got my attention. On one hand, I admired her ethics, on the other, damn it, she shouldn’t let anyone stop her dreams. With the 2016 season now over and people making plans for 2017 and beyond, I want to, in private 🙂 , have a few words with those of you who summited this year and make a few suggestions for those thinking about 2017. continue reading

May 312016
Everest 2016: Season Summary - A Normal Season

Everest 2016 was a success by many measures. Climbers achieved life long dreams and a country got a break. It was a ‘normal’ season with around 600 summits but sadly there were five deaths plus one on Lhotse. However in stark contrast to the previous four years on Everest, 2016 lacked large scale tragedy or extreme drama. If ever a poor country needed a break, it was Nepal in early 2016. The ‘business’ of Mount Everest means more than foreigners trying to summit the world’s highest mountain. It means pride, jobs, a future for the next generation and obviously, money. This is my annual season continue reading