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Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Jan 022014
 

Welcome to Alan Arnette’s Everest 2014 coverage

My coverage is based on my own summit and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest.

Latest Everest News – April 24/25, 2014

  • Climbing continues unaffected from Tibet
  • Nepal teams steadily getting back to Kathmandu and home …..
  • No news as to “opening” the Nepal side, teams are leaving – it’s over for all. Time to mourn and regroup
  • The final large #Everest2014 teams that might have climbed declare the end: Himex and Altitude Junkies.

General News & Notes

  • Donations for families of Sherpa killed in serac fall:
  • A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who makes a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits.
  • Manage email notifications of new posts using the form in the lower right corner of this page

South Col Route (map)

Everest only TEAMS (clients/western guides)
334 westerners 31 teams, 300+ Sherpa
EBC
C1
C2
C3
C4
S.Col
Summits
(climbers/Sherpas)
Facebook for AC Twitterfor AC Adventure Consultants (6/1)  e
Facebook for AG Twitterfor AG Adventures Global  e
Facebook for AG Twitterfor AG Alpenglow (3/1)  e
Facebook for AAI Twitter for AAI Alpine Ascents Int. (12/3)  e
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI Arnold Coster Expeditions (5/1)  e
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI Asian Trekking Eco Teams (17/0)  e
Altitude Junkies (7/1)  e
Exploradus Expedition (3/1)  e
Facebook for IMG Himex (17/4)  e
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF IMG Classic (20?/1?)  e
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF IMG Hybrid (8?/2?) e  H
Facebook for JG Twitter for PF Jagged Globe (9/3)  e
Facebook for MT Twitter for PF RMI (8?/2?)  e
Facebook for MT Twitter for PF Benegas Brothers  e
Madison Mountaineering e
Facebook for PF Twitter for PF Peak Freaks(8/3) e
Facebook for IMG Saatori Expeditions (7/1)  e
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Summit Climb (8/2)  e
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Tim Mosedale  e
others
SOUTH TOTAL (est)

Northeast Ridge Route (map)

TEAMS (clients/western guides)
CBC
ABC
C1
N.Col
C2
C3
Summits
(climbers/Sherpas)
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI Asian Trekking (10)  X  X
Adventure Peaks  X
Kari Kobler (11/3) X  X
Facebook for SC Malta Everest (4)  X
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Summit Climb (5/1)  X
7 Summits Club (14/4)  X
others
NORTH TOTAL (est)
e=climb ended, x=last reported location, x+ =on summit bid, -x =descending h=high sleep point, t=touched not slept. Summit number=client/Sherpa. Locations estimated from public website. Please refer to each expedition’s site for current information. Contact me to add/remove your team from my coverage.

I did similar coverage for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012 and 2013 seasons. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011 and have climbed Everest four times – 2002, 2003, 2008 and 2011.

If you will forgive the self promotion, Outside Magazine posted in February 2013 an extensive interview with me where I talk abut my childhood, mountains, Everest and of course Alzheimer’s. I appreciate their interest and help. They even said I was “one of the world’s most respected chronicler of Everest”

If you receive value from my annual Everest coverage, please consider a donation to one of these Alzheimer’s nonprofits, 100% for Alzheimer’s, none for me. thank you. Click this link to understand my personal journey with this disease

Please Donate for Alzheimers Today

14 Confirmed deaths, 4 missing

  1. Mingma Tenzing Sherpa Peak Freaks, died from HAPE
  2. Mingma Nuru Sherpa, , Shangrila Nepal on NBC Everest Expedition, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  3. Dorji Sherpa, Shangrila Nepal on NBC Everest Expedition, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  4. Ang Tshiri Sherpa, Shangrila Nepal on AAI Everest Expedition, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  5. Nima Sherpa, Shangrila Nepal on AAI Everest Expedition,  died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  6. Phurba Ongyal Sherpa, Adventure Consultants, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  7. Lakpa Tenjing Sherpa, Adventure Consultants, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  8. Chhiring Ongchu Sherpa, Adventure Consultants, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  9. Dorjee Khatri, Adventurist Everest, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  10. Dorjee Sherpa, Adventurist Everest, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  11. Phur Temba Sherpa, Adventurist Everest, died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  12. Pasang Karma Sherpa from Juving Solukhumbu, Jagged Globe,died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  13. Asman Tamang, Himalayan Ecstasy Lhotse,  died from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  14. Ankaji Sherpa, Everest Chinese Dream Expedition, from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall

Missing (1 found, no name released)

  1. Tenzing Chottar Sherpa, Shangrila Nepal on AAI Everest Expedition,  from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  2. Pem Tenji Sherpa, Everest Chinese Dream Expedition, from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall
  3. Ash Bahadur Gurung, Everest Chinese Dream Expedition,  from avalanche into Khumbu Icefall

Which route would you prefer to climb?

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Everest 2014: Team Locations
Apr 242014
 
Everest 2014: Everest Nepal Kind of Offically Closed: The Big Picture - Update 3

Update 3: The final large #Everest2014 teams that might have climbed declare the end: Himex and Altitude Junkies. Update2: I knew this would happen and I apologize. The Ministry of Tourism issued a press release saying the mountain is open and everyone is welcome to climb. (see at bottom of this post). Teams are packing even after this release. The future climbing plans all have to do with the Icefall Doctors and if they will stay and mange the route through the icefall. They have been threatened, their families have been threatened if they stay and they have told other continue reading


Apr 232014
 
Everest 2014: Season Near End from Nepal - Update 1

International Mountain Guides, IMG, who has the largest team climbing from the south side of Everest has ended their season. While there has been no official comment from the other large teams including Asian Trekking, Himex and Altitude Junkies, the IMG decision most likely ends all attempts from the south. Climbing is still occurring on the North side of Everest and other Himalayan mountains. IMG fields a very large team of Sherpa who are key in fixing the line to the summit. Without their support, other teams would struggle to find the manpower, although it would still be possible with continue reading


Apr 222014
 
Everest 2014: My Relationship with my Sherpa

An editorial As the Everest 2104 season remain in limbo, Sherpas are home reflecting on their collective loss and worried about their future. Climbers are at base camp processing a range of emotions from associated guilt to lost dreams. Families are simply worried about their loved one. This tragedy has no simple answers. It is not about money, it is  not about safety, it is not about anything more than the human condition. Anyone who professes to know the answer has not been there. Those who’ve been there, don’t know what the future holds. Opinions and position based on morality continue reading


Apr 222014
 
Everest 2014: Season Still Uncertain

The Ministry of Tourism has agreed to many of the Sherpa demands but this is far from over as to the future of the 2014 season, the benefits for the Sherpa and the future of climbing in Nepal. Climbing continues on the north side. Reports are coming in that a few Sherpa are stirring up the emotions at base camp demanding all Sherpa to stop climbing for the season. In addition, one report posted via Reuters on the New York Times has Lama Geshi  telling the Sherpa “…. they should not go to the summit because more will die” I continue reading


Apr 212014
 
Everest 2014: Tragedy Overwhelms Everest

Click here for latest full update The serac collapse into the Khumbu Icefall last Friday has not only taken at least 16 lives, it has changed Everest climbing forever. Emotions and relations are tense today at Everest Base Camp with Sherpas presenting the Ministry of Tourism a set of 13 demands ranging from improved insurance to improved pay as part of the millions the government earns from permits each year. Teams are currently on hold waiting for the Ministry to respond to the demands, They gave a date of 7 days or April 28, 2014 or they will stop climbing. continue reading


Apr 172014
 
Everest 2014: Avalanche Near Camp 1-Sherpa Deaths:Update 9

Click here for latest full update Latest as of  Monday in Nepal Alpine Ascents ends season. They had a large part in supporting the Joby Ogwyn attempt Sherpas demand improved compensation after #Everest2014 tragedy or will stop climbing. source Sherpas demand decision made by April 28. NBC cancels Joby Ogwyn wingsuit jump off #Everest2014 link —– NO decisions have been made on closing Everest south for the season. I don’t expect it but the Nepal government could. Individual teams are making their decision now. I expect a few to cancel but not many. Individual climbers are making their decisions now. I continue reading


Apr 172014
 
Everest 2014: Climbers Gain Rhythm

It is a good week for our Everest climbers as they are getting into the rhythm of their new life. Also, all the prep is ready for some climbers to begin spending the night in the Western Cwm. Ang Jangbu, expedition leader with IMG, posted this update of their progress in establishing Camp1 and Camp 2: All sherpas carrying to Camps 1 and 2 made it OK. The sherpas who went to Camp 1 managed to set up the kitchen tent plus seven sleeping tents. At Camp 2 they were able to set up the big steel frame tent. We have Ang continue reading


Apr 162014
 
Everest 2014: First Steps in the Khumbu Icefall

Today was another milestone for some Everest 2014 climbers – their first steps into the Khumbu Icefall. Of all the experiences written and talked about for Everest, crossing the ladders has to rank near the top. Todays Update But first a look at the current action. EverestER is starting off very busy caring for climbers, Sherpas, Porters and anyone who needs help: We’re busy!  Our volunteer doctors have already seen 70+ patients and had 2 patients hospitalized overnight and 3 evacuations. As usual, our patient problems run the gamut - from blisters and sprained knees to life threatening HAPE and head trauma. continue reading


Apr 152014
 
Everest 2014: Regrouping at EBC

Everest and Lhotse climbers are getting down to business today preparing to make their first acclimatization rotations into the Khumbu Icefall or on nearby trekking peaks like Lobuche. The many trekkers who came along are now heading down valley with a lifetime of memories to share forever. The communications situation seems to have gotten a bit better based on an increase of posts but the Ncell network still appears to be down and many people assumed it would be available and had no backup. It has been snowing quite heavily at EBC, also hurting the ability to make a satellite continue reading