Click for site home
The Blog on
Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Nov 182017
Avoiding Death on Everest

94 paying members have died on Everest between 1996 and 2016. Who were they, why did they die, who were they climbing with? How can you safely climb Everest, but not risk everything? I finally took the time required to analyze all the deaths over the past 20 years and found some startling conclusions. The good news, you can climb Everest and minimize the risks, the bad news is you can’t do it on the cheap or to honor your country without increasing your chances of dying, significantly. To be clear, there is zero way to climb any mountain, much continue reading

Oct 172017
Everest: 4 Weeks, Unlimited Oxygen, $110,000

For several years, I have been writing about the bifurcation of the Everest guiding business. In other words, the separation between the low-end operators and the high-end is growing larger each season. Now as we began to think about 2018, it is clear that Nepali operators like Seven Summits Treks are making huge inroads into the guiding business based primarily on catering to the Chinese and Indian middle classes with prices under $30K,  lower than their direct competition. At the other end are Western companies like Alpenglow and Furtenbach around $100K price tags and long time operators like Alpine Ascents, continue reading

Oct 162017
Himalayan Database Now Free!

In a major strategic change, the Bible of Himalayan climbs will now be free and available for download to anyone  after November 1, 2017 in late November 2017 from their website. The Himalayan Database (HDB) has been the final word on whether a climber summited one of the high peaks in Nepal and Tibet for over half a century. Created by Ms. Elizabeth Hawley and turned into a searchable database by Richard Salisbury, the HDB became an invaluable research tool for climbers, historians and journalist. The HDB is a compilation of records for all expeditions that have climbed in the continue reading

Oct 082017
Everest and K2 in the Winter

Will there be a winter summit of Everest and finally on K2 this winter? This is always a question as we approach winter. And teams usually keep their plans quiet. The recent suspects include Alex Txikon on Everest and the Poles on K2. To claim a true winter ascent of a northern hemisphere peak, the summit must be reached during the calendar winter of the northern hemisphere. For 2017/18 this begins with the winter solstice on December 21, 2017 at 11:28 am EST and ends with the spring equinox on March 201, 2018 at 12:15 pm EDT. Also to be fully continue reading

Aug 222017
Young Sherpa Brought to U.S. Before Amputation

One of the tragic stories from Everest 2017 was of Dawa Sange Sherpa who had all of his fingers severely frostbitten while working with a client who reportedly refused to turn back in bad weather. Thanks to the generosity of the climbing community, Sange is now in Vail, Colorado receiving treatment from some of the world’s best doctors but he needs our help. Good Samaritan David Snow was trekking to Everest Base Camp with his group from Utah. Sange was guiding them on the trek and on to attempt Lobuche Peak. David found the young Sherpa eager to help his continue reading

Jun 222017
Everest 2017: Loose Ends

Now that the last summits of Everest 2017 are about a month old, there are a few storylines that continue to get press. In the grand scheme, nothing really changes with any of this “news”. Big Summit Numbers from Nepal Nepal Tourism reported for spring 2017 there were 445 summits from the south (Nepal) side consisting of 190 foreigners, 32 fee-paying Nepalis, 233 Sherpas. They issued 375 foreign permits thus a 50% foreigner success rate, much lower than recent history in the 70+% range – this was perhaps due to flu and an elongated summit window of a few days continue reading

Jun 072017
Climber Selfishness Causes China to Close Autumn Climbs

Without thinking of anyone else but himself, Polish climber Janusz Adam Adamski, 49, made an illegal traverse from China to Nepal this Everest 2017 season. Now, not only will he will be punished by Nepal and China, but his action have costs others their opportunity to climb in Tibet this autumn. Follow No Rules Adamski made an illegal traverse from China to Nepal, knowing he needed a permit.  He said that he believes there is no border on mountains and thus ignored the rules apparently feeling they didn’t apply to him. Amazingly his total disregard for rules was flaunted in this quote to the Himalayan Times: “I am ready to face continue reading

Jun 052017
Everest 2017: Season Summary - A Mountain with Two Sides

This is one of the more difficult seasons I have covered to sum up in one word so let me use several: wind, tragedy, misinformation, spin and summits. Overall it was a good year, a normal year with many summits on both sides plus the average death toll. I think we saw how the pressure to be first with news can backfire with incorrect stories but we also saw the power of dreams. Similar to 2016, there were no natural disasters or issues with people getting along, other than a few individuals acting very irresponsibly and selfishly. While weather forecasting proved to be continue reading

May 312017
Everest 2017: Team Locations and Headlines

Alan Arnette’s Everest 2017 coverage and annual coverage is based on my own Everest and K2 summits and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest. I am home in Colorado this season after a climbing accident in February that stopped me from a planned Dhaulagiri climb this spring. A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who joins the Alzheimer’s Prevention Registry or makes a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s nonprofits. HEADLINE: Normal Season, Windy, 7 Deaths, 600++ Summits See continue reading

May 272017
Everest 2017: Weekend Update May 27

This season had more twists and intrigue than a U.S. Presidential election. While not completely over, this past week brought a strong end for almost all the teams on both sides of Everest. Many dreams came true, like that of my climbing buddy Jim Davidson (who is already back home in Colorado!), and for others they set a difficult goal but were disappointed like Ralf Dujmovits. Perhaps the strangest twist of the week, or season, came from the report of four bodies found at the South Col. Then it was said they made a mistake but came back and said there are bodies, just continue reading