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Aug 142019
New Everest Climber and Guide Requirements

Nepal’s Ministry of Tourism announced proposed changes for guiding and climbing Everest at a press conference held in Kathmandu today, August 14, 2019. They still must be approved by the Parliament before going into effect according to ChannelNewsAsia‘s website but are targeted for the 2020 spring season.   Highlights from the 59 page report included: Expedition companies must have a minimum of three years experience organizing high altitude climbs before guiding on Everest. Climbers will have to submit proof of summiting at least one 6,500 meter peak. Guide companies must charge a minimum of $35,000 per client. (My understanding is that this continue reading

Aug 132019
Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season Coverage Begins - Updated

With the Himalayan spring and summer season completed, the autumn season is about to begin with more climbs in the Nepal, Tibet, perhaps Pakistan and around the world. For a change Everest and Lhotse will see a lot of activity this autumn but there are rumors that China may make it difficult to climb in Tibet this autumn. This post is an introduction on what to expect and follow. 2019 Thus Far Thus far, the 2019 climbing season has been a mixed bag of summits, records and deaths. The Everest season was well chronicled but perhaps the larger story were continue reading

Jun 212019
Everest: Nepal Looking at Huge Permit Fee Increase

Its been rumored for the past two years that Nepal will increase the permit fee to climb Everest from the current $11,000 to $15,000 but now, according to conversations I had this week with both major foreign and Nepali operators, there is talk of increasing the Everest permit fees to as much as $25,000 per person. To my knowledge, no final decision has been made. Ministry Under Pressure With global pressure for Nepal to “fix” Everest after the 11 deaths just this past spring, the Government appears to be struggling with various options while protecting their cash cow. There are continue reading

Jun 102019
Everest 2019: Indians Fake their Summit Claim

Three Indian climbers came home to celebrations and fanfare for summiting Mt. Everest last month but there was only one problem – they never got above Camp 3 at 23,000-feet, much less on the summit at 29,035 feet. Vikas Rana, Shobha Banwala, and Ankush Kasana all from villages in Northern India, were climbing with the Nepali guide company, Prestige Adventures, along with six others members. They claimed to have summited on May 26 when there were no other climbers on the summit. When asked the names of their four sherpas, they could’t recall their names according to a report in continue reading

Jun 072019
Everest 2019: Season Summary The Year Everest Broke

Everest 2019 will go down as the year Everest finally broke. It was one of those seasons where a lot of things went wrong, more things went right and many trends took center stage with new and old lessons for members, support, guide companies and governments. The only remaining question is, is anyone listening? One Person’s Story There are many stories to tell this year but this one perhaps encapsulates the entire season of risks, support, drive, judgment and motivation.  Los Angles resident Mark Parella was climbing with Seven Summit Treks. A he was headed to the summit he developed snow-blindnesss continue reading

May 302019
Everest 2019: Season Over?

One of the last teams known to still be on Everest made a gamble that they could catch the last available window, but as usual this year, the weather had the last word. Scott Woolums with his single client, John, along with three Sherpas: Migma,, Karma, and Namgyl spent much of April trekking in Nepal to acclimatize hoping they could then go hop over to the Tibet side and catch an early window. But Scott, a seasoned mountain guide and Everest summiteer knew it may take patience. I’m not sure he new it would take another month of waiting but they continue reading

May 302019
Everest 2019: Team Locations and Headlines

LATEST HEADLINE May 31: Season Over 11 Everest Deaths, 900 estimated total summits  Welcome to the 2019 edition of Alan Arnette’s annual coverage of the Everest climbing season. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge and reward of climbing Everest. It’s based on my own three Everest attempts and my 2011 summit plus my climbing experiences of a K2 summit in 2014, Manaslu in 2013 and 30+ more peaks around the world. My reporting uses my own research, sources, and public information. Click for the complete Everest 2019 coverage Current Headlines Read continue reading

May 272019
Everest 2019: Summit Wave Recap 7 - Quiet Summits, Another Death

While almost all the teams are packing up at base camps on both sides, a few are still aiming to summit and one did this Monday, May 27 morning. Mike Hammil’s Climbing the Seven Summits‘ team lead by Casey Grom summited with no one else around! They say the weather is perfect and they have the summit all to themselves! Everyone on top so 100% from CTSS for everyone who left Base Camp on a summit bid. Just confirming but 4 climbers, 3 guides, 9 sherpa: Mrika Nikqi – Kosovo Arianit Nikqi – Kosovo Ignacio Montesinos – Argentina Chris Kulish – continue reading

May 262019
Everest 2019: Weekend Update May 27 - It's Not About the Crowds

The third week of May 2019 may go down as one of the best and worse in Everest history. Over 500 people summited but it was not without cost, 10 people died, many of which were avoidable in my view. More are headed up to summit on Sunday, May 26. As I will develop in this post there are four reasons for the deaths on the Nepal side this season: Too many people Too few summit windows Too many inexperienced people climbing inadequate climber support The Joy of the Summit Not to be lost is the joy and satisfaction felt continue reading

May 232019
Everest 2019: Summit Wave Recap 6 - Update

As the season winds down, there are a few teams that choose to wait out the winds and the crowds. We have summits on the Tibet side Friday morning, May 24. Amazingly, there are a few teams still waiting for early next week. UPDATE: Another death: Tibet side 360 Expeditions: Kevin Hynes, 56, Irish died at North Col after turning back at 8300m. He had previously summited Everest Nepal and Lhotse. Also on the Tibet side with Kobler & Partner, Ernst Langrast, died near 8600-meters after summiting.   Dhruba Bista, died a EBC after evacuation from C3. He was with Himalayan Ski Treks. Now continue reading