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Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Jan 022014

Welcome to Alan Arnette’s Everest 2014 coverage

My coverage is based on my own summit and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest.

Latest Everest News – April 18, 2014

  • Avalanche reported Friday morning, April 18th, in upper Khumbu Icefall
  • Casualty count increasing: 13 died 3+ missing
  • Helicopters bringing bodies back to base camp
  • Over 100 Sherpas and climbers trapped above avalanche
  • All climbing stopped on Everest
  • IMG reports 1 Sherpa slightly injured rest OK. Important as they were only western team in the area at the time, I believe
  • Remember first information is almost always wrong

General News & Notes

  • Ncell connectivity improving
  • Nepal permit numbers showing 31 permits for Everest for 334 westerners.
  • A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who makes a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits.
  • Manage email notifications of new posts using the form in the lower right corner of this page

South Col Route (map)

Everest only TEAMS (clients/western guides)
334 westerners 31 teams, 300+ Sherpa
Facebook for AC Twitterfor AC Adventure Consultants (6/1)  X
Facebook for AG Twitterfor AG Adventures Global  X
Facebook for AG Twitterfor AG Alpenglow (3/1)
Facebook for AAI Twitter for AAI Alpine Ascents Int. (12/2)  X
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI Arnold Coster Expeditions (5/1)
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI Asian Trekking Eco Teams (17/0)  X
Altitude Junkies (7/1)  X
Exploradus Expedition (3/1)  X
Facebook for IMG Himex (17/4)  X
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF IMG Classic (20?/1?)  X
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF IMG Hybrid (8?/2?)  X
Facebook for JG Twitter for PF Jagged Globe (9/2)  X
Facebook for MT Twitter for PF RMI (8?/2?)  X
Facebook for MT Twitter for PF Benegas Brothers
Facebook for PF Twitter for PF Peak Freaks(8/3)  X
Facebook for IMG Saatori Expeditions (7/1)  X
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Summit Climb (8/2)
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Tim Mosedale

Northeast Ridge Route (map)

TEAMS (clients/western guides)
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI Asian Trekking (10)  X
Adventure Peaks  X
Facebook for SC Malta Everest (4)  X
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Summit Climb (5/1)  X
7 Summits Club (14/4)
e=climb ended, x=last reported location, x+ =on summit bid, -x =descending h=high sleep point, t=touched not slept. Summit number=client/Sherpa. Locations estimated from public website. Please refer to each expedition’s site for current information. Contact me to add/remove your team from my coverage.

I did similar coverage for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012 and 2013 seasons. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011 and have climbed Everest four times – 2002, 2003, 2008 and 2011.

If you will forgive the self promotion, Outside Magazine posted in February 2013 an extensive interview with me where I talk abut my childhood, mountains, Everest and of course Alzheimer’s. I appreciate their interest and help. They even said I was “one of the world’s most respected chronicler of Everest”

If you receive value from my annual Everest coverage, please consider a donation to one of these Alzheimer’s nonprofits, 100% for Alzheimer’s, none for me. thank you. Click this link to understand my personal journey with this disease

Please Donate for Alzheimers Today

1 Confirmed death

  1. Peak Freaks’ Mingma Tenzing Sherpa died from HAPE

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Everest 2014: Team Locations
Apr 172014
Everest 2014: Avalanche Near Camp 1-Sherpa Deaths:Update 4

Early Friday morning, April 18th, an avalanche off the West Shoulder of Everest has buried climbers, mostly if not all were Sherpa, working to carry loads to Camps 1 and 2. 13 dead 3+ missing Update 4: Over 100 Sherpas and climbers trapped above avalanche. All climbing stopped on Everest. Helicopters bringing bodies back to base camp Update 3: Western teams reporting in: IMG: 1 Sherpa hurt, not seriously, no members or guides Peak Freaks: none involved Alpine Ascents: some Sherpa involved, no members or guides Adventure Consultants: some Sherpa involved, no members or guides Altitude Junkies: none involved Jagged continue reading

Apr 172014
Everest 2014: Climbers Gain Rhythm

It is a good week for our Everest climbers as they are getting into the rhythm of their new life. Also, all the prep is ready for some climbers to begin spending the night in the Western Cwm. Ang Jangbu, expedition leader with IMG, posted this update of their progress in establishing Camp1 and Camp 2: All sherpas carrying to Camps 1 and 2 made it OK. The sherpas who went to Camp 1 managed to set up the kitchen tent plus seven sleeping tents. At Camp 2 they were able to set up the big steel frame tent. We have Ang continue reading

Apr 162014
Everest 2014: First Steps in the Khumbu Icefall

Today was another milestone for some Everest 2014 climbers – their first steps into the Khumbu Icefall. Of all the experiences written and talked about for Everest, crossing the ladders has to rank near the top. Todays Update But first a look at the current action. EverestER is starting off very busy caring for climbers, Sherpas, Porters and anyone who needs help: We’re busy!  Our volunteer doctors have already seen 70+ patients and had 2 patients hospitalized overnight and 3 evacuations. As usual, our patient problems run the gamut - from blisters and sprained knees to life threatening HAPE and head trauma. continue reading

Apr 152014
Everest 2014: Regrouping at EBC

Everest and Lhotse climbers are getting down to business today preparing to make their first acclimatization rotations into the Khumbu Icefall or on nearby trekking peaks like Lobuche. The many trekkers who came along are now heading down valley with a lifetime of memories to share forever. The communications situation seems to have gotten a bit better based on an increase of posts but the Ncell network still appears to be down and many people assumed it would be available and had no backup. It has been snowing quite heavily at EBC, also hurting the ability to make a satellite continue reading

Apr 142014
Everest 2014: Base Camp Life

The communication problems for teams now at Everest Base Camp is improving, slightly. The Ncell mobile network is still down but the Mercantile Communications systems seems to be up as well as the satellite access. A good omen for New Year’s day in Nepal, year 2071! It has been snowing and cloudy at base camp for several days taking a toll on solar charging capability. It is often all about power, there are no power lines in the upper Khumbu or Everest Base Camp. In spite of the comms issues, teams are settling into base camp after their week or continue reading

Apr 132014
Everest 2014: Weekend Update April 13 - Full Base Camp

Heavy snow greeted climbers as they finished the trek to Everest Base Camp on Nepal’s side or started the drive to Chinese Base Camp on Tibet’s side. But there were no reported problems and teams will start their acclimatization rotations through the Khumbu Icefall this week. Big Picture This past week teams made steady progress through the Khumbu, once they got to Lukla. There were multiple flight delays that forced some teams to drive to villages closers to Lukla then to take helicopters. This was more of an annoyance than a huge problem as they were soon on the trek continue reading

Apr 122014
Everest 2014: Ceremonies

Ceremonies mark life. Many come with a birth of a child, a union of a couple or upon death. For the Sherpa, they will not climb Everest without one such ceremony, a Puja. Today’s Update There is something strange going on with the communications systems for some teams at Everest Base Camp preventing the usual blog posts. Some emails and posts are getting through but speeds are extremely slow preventing attachments including pictures in many cases. Many, many teams are reporting this issue when they can get through. And it does not appear to be from the usual overload of continue reading

Apr 102014
Everest 2014: Acclimitizing on Lesser Peaks

Just as some teams arrive at Everest Base Camp, they turn around and leave. What’s up? Well for many years now, some major western teams have used lower peaks in the Khumbu for acclimatization in order to reduce the time spent climbing through the Icefall. Todays’ Update As usual before we go on, let’s review where the teams are today. More climbers arrived at Everest Base Camp (EBC) on the Nepal side just as the teams climbing from Tibet crossed the border on their way to Chinese Base Camp (CBC). The Triple 8 team is on their way to Cho continue reading

Apr 092014
Everest 2014: Lhotse - Gaining Attention

The 2014 teams heading towards base camp are not all going to climb Everest, in fact many, I would guess 10% are targeting Lhotse. But before we discuss the world’s 4th highest peak at 27,940 feet or 8516 meters, let’s see what is going on right now. First off, there was a wedding at EBC as reported by IMG: IMG guide Mike Hamill reports that team members Loretta and Jim were married at Everest base camp today. They have been together for 10 years, and today was the perfect occasion to tie the knot. Jim is staying to climb Mt. continue reading