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Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Feb 272015
 

Welcome to Alan Arnette’s Everest 2015 coverage

My coverage is based on my own summit and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest.  I will be climbing Lhotse thus will be reporting from Everest Base Camp this year with all the regular features plus videos and interviews directly from the mountain as it happens.

Latest Everest News – Sunday, May 3, 2015 – Nepal time

EVEREST CLOSED FROM BOTH NORTH AND SOUTH (not really)

Everest has been closed by the Chinese and practically so on the Nepal side after a 7.8 magnitude earthquake hit Nepal at 11:56 AM on Saturday April 25. The epicenter of the quake was Lamjung, which is 48 kilometers NW of Kathmandu and approximately 100 kilometers west of Everest Base Camp.

These are the latest headlines. Scroll down for the latest blog post. Alan Arnette (me) was between Camp 1 and 2 in the Western CWM when it hit.

The Nepal Government finally admitted on 3 May 2015 what everyone knew- Everest is closed from from South side. The Icefall Doctors have given up, no strong, large teams remain at EBC to fix the route a vi C2. Finally the season on both sides is officially over. This will be the first time since 1974 that there will BE NO summit on Everest.

In further embarrassment, Nepal’s tourism department said on 4 May, 2105 that Everest open, and it is up to anyone with a permit to climb.

personally, I hope no one tries. Almost no one is at EBC but there are always individuals with their own agenda.

Prior Headlines

  • The Indian Army remains at EBC to assist in clean up. To my knowledge, there will be no further attempts from Nepal for 2015.
  • Only a  few large teams still trekking down the Khumbu
  • Many climbers have already or are scheduled to leave Kathmandu by commercial flights
  • Kathmandu airport has been closed to heavy military, relief airplanes due to runway wear/tear considerations, still open to smaller aircraft, including most commercial flights.
  • HIMEX has declared they will not attempt any Himalayan Peak. I think this is the last major team to have kept their decision open thus making it 99% that no one will attempt Everest from Nepal … but there are always individuals like last year that could try.
  • Nick Ciensk (Founder and CEO and Under Armour Senior Director of Innovation), climbing with Himex trying to climb Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and 3 other 8000m peaks in 6 months has canceled his efforts May 1, 2105 – this may be the last holdout for Everest 2015 from Nepal
  • Nepal side teams are streaming out by helicopter or by foot through the Khumbu
  • Himex adopting a wait and see approach after getting approval to fly loads (not people) into CWM
  • At least 19 dead at EBC, over 120 injured
  • 170 climbers evacuated out of Western CWM
  • Ice serac releases off Pumori caused by 7.9 earthquake near Kathmandu on Saturday, April 25
  • The casualty count at EBC is 19+, many, many injuries ~ 120_ as of this post – 7PM April 27
  • Most of the injuries and casualty were from wind blast off Pumori and associated impact with rocks
  • EverestER and Doctors with others teams doing amazing work
  • Alan was between C1 and C2 when earthquake hit causing major avalanches off Nuptse and Everest W Shoulder
  • Alan now at Gorak Shep starting long journey to return home, comms spotty at best
  • Multiple aftershocks created uncertainty a about Khumbu Icefall causing evac from CWM and cancellation of many team’s expeditions.
  • Over 150 helicoptered from C1 in Western CWM today, April 27
  • No one ever in real danger at C1 and C2, plenty of food and supplies
  • 4 minute turn around time to EBC with 2 per helicopter
  • Outstanding cooperation with some exceptions
  • Many have found personal items in flattened tents
  • Many teams have left EBC and are in teahouse in Khumbu
  • Some are back in Kathmandu via helicopter
  • Almost all teams are preparing to leave EBC and stop south side attempts
  • Indian Army team of 35 to remain at EBC to assist with humanitarian efforts
  • Some small teams will stay and make a decision in a few days
  • Icefall Doctors have stopped maintaining the route due to safety, aftershock concerns – they may return – unkown
  • A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who joins the Registry or makes a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits.
  • Manage email notifications of new posts using the form in the lower right corner of this page

South Col Route (map)

Nepal CLOSES Everest as Icefall Doctors says route unrepairable

Everest only TEAMS (clients/western guides)
359 Climbers/350 Sherpas
EBC
C1
C2
C3
C4
S.Col
Summits
Facebook for AC TwitterforAC Adventure Consultants (9/2) e
Facebook for AG Twitterfor AG Adventures Global (4/1) e
Facebook for AAI Twitter for AAI Alpine Ascents Int. (6/2) e  H
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI Arnold Coster Expeditions (10/1) e
Asian Trekking Eco Teams e  H
Altitude Junkies e
Facebook for MT Twitter for PF Benegas Brothers (2/1) e
Gurkhas (15) e
Facebook for IMG Himex e
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF IMG Classic (19/0) e  H
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF IMG Hybrid (10?/4?) e  H
Facebook for JG Twitter for PF Jagged Globe (9/2) e
Facebook for MT Twitter for PF RMI (6/2) e  H
Madison Mountaineering (12/4) e H
Facebook for IMG Mountain Gurus (2/1) e
Mountain Trip (1/1) e
Sean Wisedale (4/1) e
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Summit Climb (8/1) e
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Tim Mosedale e
Trek 8848 e
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF 360 Expeditions (1/1) e
others  ?
SOUTH TOTAL (est)

Northeast Ridge Route (map)

Everest from Tibet CLOSED by CTMA fearing aftershocks

TEAMS (clients/western guides)
150 Climbers/175 Sherpas
CBC
ABC
C1
N.Col
C2
C3
Summit
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI Asian Trekking  e
Facebook for AG Twitterfor AG Alpenglow (6/2)  e
Adventure Peaks (8/1)  e
British Army  e
Kari Kobler  e
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Summit Climb (11/1)  e
7 Summits Club  e
others  e
NORTH TOTAL (est)
L=Lobuche,e=climb ended, x=last reported location, x+ =on summit bid, -x =descending h=high sleep point, t=touched not slept. Summit number=client/Sherpa. Locations estimated from public website. Please refer to each expedition’s site for current information. Contact me to add/remove your team from my coverage.

I did similar coverage for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013 and 2014 seasons. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011 and have climbed Everest four times – 2002, 2003, 2008 and 2011.

If you will forgive the self promotion, Outside Magazine posted in February 2013 an extensive interview with me where I talk abut my childhood, mountains, Everest and of course Alzheimer’s. I appreciate their interest and help. They even said I was “one of the world’s most respected chronicler of Everest”

If you receive value from my annual Everest coverage, please consider a donation to one of these Alzheimer’s nonprofits, 100% for Alzheimer’s, none for me. thank you. Click this link to understand my personal journey with this disease


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Everest 2015: Team Locations

Everest 2015: Kathmandu and Everest, a Small Part of Nepal

 Comments Off on Everest 2015: Kathmandu and Everest, a Small Part of Nepal
May 022015
 
Everest 2015: Kathmandu and Everest, a Small Part of Nepal

My flight from Lukla to Kathmandu was uneventful, in fact more on time than many of my last trips. My gratitude of being met by US Special Forces and a dedicated team from Global Rescue services has quelled any concerns of personal impact. I know someone in the United States is looking after her citizens. All I can think about is the carnage at Everest Base Camp, the loss of Eve and the impact on the almost 8,000 throughout Nepal, the unseen damage and the fact that the world’s attention and media will soon turn to the latest “man bites continue reading

Apr 302015
 
Everest 2015: Icefall Doctors and Helicopter Rescues - Justified or a Crutch?

The scope of the Nepal earthquake tragedy is a huge human disaster yet the climbing community is consumed with Icefall Doctors and helicopter rescues on Everest. I believe it is good to question and understand major life events yet I am sometimes dismayed how the climbing industry seems to literally consume itself with criticism that lacks information, indictments without evidence and a vision that is sometimes based on past achievements that, while admirable, is exclusive and unwelcoming to the next generation. All this seems to be occasionally fueled by organizations, media and personalities that make a living off the sport continue reading

Apr 292015
 
Everest 2015: North Closed, South Retreats - a full recap

First, I want to say that this earthquake is a Nepal tragedy, not a mountaineering event. My deep, deep condolences to all of Nepal, victims, injured and homeless. No country deserves this, much less the gentle people of Nepal. I am now at the Panorama Lodge in Namche Bazaar, safe, with most of the Madison Mountaineering team. In recap, a 7.8 magnitude earthquake hit Nepal at 11:56 AM on Saturday April 25. The epicenter of the quake was at Lamjung, which is 30 miles northwest of Kathmandu and approximately 62 miles west of Everest Base Camp. To keep this in continue reading

Apr 272015
 

A very terse update due to intermittent Internet. Everyone is very tired, mentally spent. Sincere and deep condolences to everyone in Nepal impacted by this tragedy. Ice serac releases off Pumori caused by 7.9 earthquake near Kathmandu on Saturday The casualty count at EBC is 22+, many, many injuries ~ 40+++ as of this post – 7PM April 27 Most of the injuries and casualty were from wind blast off Pumori and associated impact with rocks EverestER and Doctors with others teams doing amazing work Alan was between C1 and C2 when earthquake hit causing major avalanches off Nuptse and Everest continue reading

Apr 222015
 
Everest 2015: First Steps in the Icefall

Long Expeditions are often filled with a lot of down time, sometimes by design to let your body adjust to the altitude and other times due to unforeseen events. Well we have had a bit of both thus far. I have been gone from home for 3 weeks so I’m ready to do some climbing. A combination of poor weather and the new route through the Khumbu Icefall has put everyone on the South side about a week behind schedule. But we have about 6 weeks to go, so there is no need for great concern at this point. Wednesday, continue reading

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