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Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Jan 042017
Everest 2017: Team Locations and Headlines

Welcome to Alan Arnette’s Everest 2017 coverage My annual coverage is based on my own summit and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest. I am home in Colorado this season after a climbing accident in February that stopped me from a planned Dhaulagiri climb this spring. A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who joins the Alzheimer’s Prevention Registry or makes a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits. Manage email notifications of new posts using the form continue reading

Mar 242017
Everest 2017: Adventure Consultant's Guy Cotter on 'Fixing Everest'

As the guiding universe explodes with seemingly anybody and everybody jumping in, there are a handful of global companies that simply take care of business year in, year out and Adventure Consultants is one of the best. For close to two decades, Guy Cotter has been running the company with a strong philosophy of keeping it small and safe. Guy is not a figurehead but a true mountaineer. He has summited Everest four times as well as many other 8000 meter peaks and is returning for another attempt on Dhaulagiri this year while another AC team climbs Everest. I climbed with Guy or continue reading

Mar 222017
Everest 2017: Weather Watch

Sherpas are already at Everest Base Camp on the Nepal side establishing camps. The Icefall Doctors have also arrived and will start building the route thru the Khumbu Icefall soon. But the big question is what kind of mountain conditions and weather will be in store for the 2017 season? This is perhaps more critical than in any recent season. As I have been suggesting, both sides of Everest could see record crowds for a number of reason I outlined in this post. I am expecting over 600 summits from the South (Nepal) side and well over 200 from the North (Tibet) totaling 800 from both continue reading

Mar 202017
Everest 2017: Will Required use of GPS Make Everest Safer? - False Report

Update: The Himalayan Times’ Rajan Pokhrel says the report is false and the chief of Nepal’s tourism department, Durga Dutta Dhakal, was incorrect. News reports are indicating that Nepal will test using GPS trackers attached to Everest climbers to expedite rescue and prove summits. Will this work? Will it make any difference? Let’s take a look. Popularized by the SPOT Personal Tracker in 2010, a small device that transmits a user’s GPS location to satellites and then on to anyone interested, the Nepal Government is hoping the technology will expedite rescues and verify summits on Everest in 2017. They will supply a $300 GPS continue reading

Mar 202017
Everest 2017: After 14 Everest Expeditions, Why Altitude Junkies is Leaving?

Guide companies tend to come and go, especially on Everest, but there are a handful that have made a significant contribution to the industry and when they “go”, there is a good reason. I’ve known Phil Crampton since 2008 when he was instrumental in helping me recover from botched logistics on a Everest North side climb. We went to the South side that year and was waylaid by the Chinese antics related to the Olympic games. Anyway, in 2013 I summited Manaslu with Phil and team plus was on his Everest team in 2016 for my Lhotse attempt. When he told me a couple continue reading

Mar 152017
Everest 2017: Why is the Khumbu Icefall so Dangerous?

Of all the sections on Everest, the Khumbu Icefall receives the most headlines for the danger. Why is it so dangerous? Does it deserve this reputation? What can climbers do about? Let’s take a look. A River of Ice that is Melting Everything starts with the Khumbu Glacier, a 10 mile/17km river of ice that begins high on the Lhotse Face around 25,000’/7,600m. The Khumbu Icefall is the section between Everest Base Camp 17,300’/5270m and just below where Camp 1 is usually located, 19,500’/5943m. Once it leaves Lhotse, the glacier defines the Western Cwm for about 2 miles before dropping rapidly to create the Khumbu Icefall for 2.5 miles. continue reading

Mar 132017
Everest 2017: Russell Brice "Old School" Prepares for Another Season

Russell Brice is a legend on Everest. He came to notoriety on the Discovery Channel’s “Everest Beyond the Limits” series about 10 years ago. But few people know that Russ is a world-class climber in his own right. Born in New Zealand in 1952, he now lives in London. He started climbing as a young boy in New Zealand and soon found his way to the Himalayas and Alps. Back in 2011, I sat down with Russ for a long conversation. Since then we have had many such opportunities to talk about his climbing experiences, Everest, trends and dangers including last year during my Lhotse attempt. continue reading

Mar 122017
Everest 2017: Why Does it Take so Long to Climb Everest?

Climbers are beginning to pack their duffle bags in preparation to leave for Kathmandu. But its early March and most people summit around May 19th, so whats the hurry? Good question. Let’s take a look at how long it takes to get to the top of the world. The new shiny penny in the world of climbing the big mountains are so-called “speed ascents”. Known by other adjectives, let’s just call them fast or speedy but not to be confused with what Uli Steck does, which is real speed climbing. Anyway, this is where climbers hope to cut the time required continue reading

Mar 092017
Bill Burke: A Study in Tenacity - Over

Update: March 21, 2107 Bill and team experienced deep snow and brutal cold, similar to what Alex Txikon experienced on Everest a couple of weeks earlier.  He has an excellent write upon his blog  of the decision and his helicopter “mountain tour” near the summit of his mountain on his way out. In Bill’s words: I finally reached Dawa with my inReach Explorer satellite device and received the weather report. Mike Fagin’s report applied to conditions at 18,000 feet, which was the elevation of our Base Camp. He reported a deterioration of the weather over the next 10-days as the jet continue reading

Mar 082017
Alex Txikon's Everest Winter Summit - OVER

Alex Txikon said going on would have been “suicide.”  With a team of five Sherpas he reached Camp 2 on 7th March 2017 from the Nepal side of Everest. They felt the extreme cold and high winds with the same in the forecast for many days and called it quits. Txikon says he will return. Txikon deserves a lot of credit for not giving up easily. He reached the South Col almost a month ago but was stopped by high winds – so much so that they couldn’t even pitch their tent. One of the Sherpas was hit by rockfall on the descent to continue reading