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Jan 042017
Everest 2017: Team Locations and Headlines

Alan Arnette’s Everest 2017 coverage and annual coverage is based on my own Everest and K2 summits and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest. I am home in Colorado this season after a climbing accident in February that stopped me from a planned Dhaulagiri climb this spring. A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who joins the Alzheimer’s Prevention Registry or makes a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s nonprofits. HEADLINE: Normal Season thus Far, No Incidents, Route continue reading

Apr 212017
Everest 2017: Building the Climbing Route

As we end the third week of April, teams are all over both sides of the mountain. They are doing their first acclimatization rotation primarily to the lowest of the camps above base camp. For most teams they will do at least one more of these rotations but to the next highest camp before they are ready for the summit pushes in mid May. But the key to it all is getting the route set. You read the term “fixing the route” and “fixed ropes” all the time so let’s take a moment while we wait for the climbers to return to continue reading

Apr 202017
Everest 2017: Is Everest a Garbage Dump?

Everest is running at full throttle on both sides this week. Teams are climbing to Camp 2 on the South and ABC on the North. All is reported well, with decent weather. Snow is forecasted for the weekend so they may cut their rotations a bit short this time. Busy EBC EverestEr, the fully volunteer organization that provides medical care to climbers, Sherpas and Nepali on the south side is a bit busy thus far. If you have ever used their services, have a friend or family on Everest or just want to help this amazing organization, click this link to continue reading

Apr 192017
Everest 2017: Into the Western Cwm

Right on schedule, the third week of April has climbers on both sides of Everest moving to the higher camps in the quest of adjusting their bodies to higher altitudes. For many climbers, they will have trouble adjusting as Camp 1 in the Western Cwm on the Nepal side is 19,500 feet and on the Tibet side, Advanced Base Camp is even higher at 21,300 feet.  The first night at altitude is always horrible. Normal Season Thus Far Overall the season continues to progress normally with no major issues. The routes are being managed well on the Nepal side with the rope fixing teams preparing continue reading

Apr 172017
Everest 2017: How to Manage the Everest Crowds

As predicted it looks to be a record year on the both sides of Mt Everest and the normal routes will be crowded. With the vivid memories of the crowds in 2012, the media will be jumping all over this with demands from armchair climbers, journalists, attention seekers and the expert at your next party who has never been above the second floor but read Into Thin Air, to close Everest immediately.  As the Irish say, brace yourself. With histrionics aside, what can be done? First, to define the issue, this is what I posted yesterday: The Nepal Ministry of Tourism is reporting that 385 foreigners from 41 teams have already continue reading

Apr 152017
Everest 2017: Weekend Update April 16 - Updated

As we enter mid April, the activity is increasing on both sides of Everest. This past week the Nepal side saw a huge influx of teams and on the Tibet side, the beginning of what could be a record year began. Update – Record Nepal Everest Climbers The Nepal Ministry of Tourism is reporting that 365 foreigners from 39 teams have already received permits for Everest and healthy activity on many other peaks. My sincere thanks to Rajan Pokhrel for this chart. Note that Everest and Lhotse are both up from last year. Dhaulagiri also has a large number of climbers at continue reading

Apr 132017
Everest 2017: Ueli Steck's Everest Lhotse Project

Climbers from all over the world are arriving at the base camps on both sides of Everest this week to attempt the standard routes but one Swiss Alpinist has a special plan in mind. Ueli Steck’s Everest Lhotse Project will be fun to watch. He and Tenji Sherpa will attempt to summit Everest by the never repeated West Ridge/Hornbein Couloir route, then descend to the South Col before taking the once climbed direct line just below the Lhotse Ridge to gain that summit. What is unique about Ueli and Tenji’s attempt is that no climbers have ever connected all these routes. They will continue reading

Apr 122017
Everest 2017: Base Camp Begins to Fill Up

The activity is building around Everest. Teams are trekking on the south and driving on the north and some are already at base camp. All is well on both sides of Everest at the moment. Early April is an awkward time in the Everest timeline. There are literally hundreds of people scattered from Kathmandu to Lhasa to the trekking peaks of Nepal to tiny desolate towns in Tibet, and a few beginning to adjust to life at base camp. Trek On! Post after post reveal the Khumbu is still filled with people making their way to base camp. The weather has been pretty good continue reading

Apr 102017
Everest 2017: Ice Serac Release Stalls Climbing

Reports of a serac release in the Icefall are coming in. There are no injuries. It appears a towering ice serac in the Khumbu Icefall just before the “Football Field” released burying the fixed ropes. The conditions were already tough on Monday, 10 April 2017 with very cold temps and high winds. There were around 30 Sherpas in the area who turned back due to the conditions then the route damage. James Brooman, climbing with IMG, was doing his first rotation thru the Icefall when they were stopped. Visit his very well done site for more pictures and a nice write continue reading

Apr 092017
Everest 2017: Weekend Update April 9

This past week on Everest has been busy with no surprises. Just like it should be in early April. And have no doubt, Everest will see record summits the spring of 2017. Excellent reporter Rajan Pokhrel of The Himalayan Times in Kathmandu reported that the Ministry of Tourism has already issued 250 permits for Everest to 27 teams representing 28 nationalities.  This represents almost $2 million in revenue for Nepal thus far. They are still expecting 500 foreigners. 70 Everest climbers used their 2015 permits that were extended due to the earthquake. The first teams arrived at Everest Base Camp (EBC) on the Nepal side continue reading