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Jan 232015
Everest 2015: The Moment You Know

For many people, they can tell you the exact moment when a dream became reality, when planning became real, when the butterfly began to move from within. For many Everest climbers, that was this week. Everest is not a spur of the moment decision, it’s sometimes a life long dream – literally. Some climbers, in their teenage years, carefully read each word in famous books, letting the imagery sink in as they tried to envision themselves on the Lhotse Face or at the North Col. Now decades later they will get their chance. Other climbers, later in life, made a continue reading

Jan 062015
An Inside Look at What Everest 2015 May Bring

In only 90 days, climbers from around the world will arrive in Kathmandu seeking to summit the world’s highest mountain. However with the deaths of 19 Sherpa in 2014, the world’s attention, and media, will be focused hoping to record the drama that comes with every Everest season. I reached out to the leading Everest guides around the world, including local Nepali companies and some Sherpa, to get a feel for how their preparations were going as well as what they anticipated from this spring season. The bottom line: a slightly smaller number of climbers on the South, a bit continue reading

Dec 262014
An Open Letter to Everest 2015 Climbers

While at a holiday party this week, I struck up a conversation with a gentleman who had recently attempted several peaks in Peru. He told me of his struggles and how he turned back around 6000 meters not sure of himself. He went on to proudly tell me about his 2008 trek to Everest Base Camp and how he had amazing views from Kala Patar of Everest. I asked him several questions about his experience and tried to very, very briefly share a bit of mine wanting to let him know that turning back from a summit was a wise continue reading

Dec 152014
Everest 2015: The Cost to Climb Everest

Everest 2015 is quickly approaching and it is time to update my annual look at the costs. Many climbers will be in for sticker shock as prices have dramatically increased for 2015. Also, the North side will see much more activity as some operators have fled the south after the strange polices and actions of the Nepal government and some Sherpas. See my full preview of Everest 2015 I  posted in October. If you value this post and find the ads interesting, clicking on them will help support this site. Click for Current Coverage of the Everest 2015 Season The continue reading

Dec 112014

The title says it all. EverestER, and the University of Washington have developed a survey to try and answer this question in an unbiased and objective manner. If you have attempted Everest, the survey is for you. It is anonymous, confidential and you can chose what questions to answer. I took the survey myself. In my 37 major expeditions including four to Everest, I personally never witnessed an over use of drugs other than to treat illness. Some did use Diamox to accelerate acclimatization but this survey is trying to get to more serious drugs used to enhance a climber’s continue reading

Nov 112014
Nepal Continues to Play with Everest Climbers - Updated

In April of 2014, over 300 climbers saw their dreams of climbing Everest come short when the most deadly incident in the history of Everest brought an early end to the season. 16 mountain workers were killed from the release of an ice serac on the west shoulder of Everest onto the Khumbu Icefall. The resulting actions taken by some in the Sherpa community resulted in an effective cancellation of the season as they refused to support the client climbers. However, one climber, Jing Wang of China flew a helicopter to camp 2 and went on to summit with a continue reading

Oct 062014
A Preview to Everest 2015

Everest 2015 starts a short six months from now when climbers arrive in Kathmandu or Lhasa to begin their attempt on the world’s highest mountain. I will cover the action as I have since 2002. This will be my 13th season of Everest: 9 times providing coverage and another 4 seasons of actually climbing on Everest. Look for extensive postings starting in early 2015. I did similar coverage for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013 and 2014 seasons. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011 and have climbed Everest four times – 2002, 2003, 2008 and 2011. continue reading

Jun 092014
Everest 2014: Season Summary - A Nepal Tragedy

The 2014 spring season of mountaineering on Everest had more to do with politics, fame, power and positioning than mountaineering. These agendas dwarfed the deaths of 19 people. The final summit numbers will take months to determine but most likely will be the lowest total since 1997. From Tibet over 100 people summited. And from Nepal, six summits, albeit aviation assisted since the climbers flew to Camp 2 instead of climbing through the Icefall. This post will provide my analysis of the season, what went wrong along with ideas on going forward. These are my conclusions but with input from continue reading

May 312014
Everest 2014: Team Locations

Welcome to Alan Arnette’s Everest 2014 coverage My coverage is based on my own summit and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest. Latest Everest News – May 31, 2014 My summary of this tragic season NORTH: The season is over on the North side. I am estimating about 125 summits. NO deaths reported on the North side for 2014. SOUTH: The season is over on the South side. – 6 summits 19 deaths on South side in continue reading

May 232014
Everest 2014: Summits - Update 6

Update 6: Looks like about 100 people went for the summit from Tibet on Sunday but not all teams have reported. There were many comments about crowds preventing fast climbers from moving around slow ones. Weather was expected thus the season may be over, but for 2014, I have learned never to say closed …. The controversy around Jing Wang’s summit continues. She refused to discuss the use of helicopters but in a report today said she did not use a helicopter disputing the statements of her organizer and the helicopter pilot. According to Wang’s application stating her itinerary from continue reading