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Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Aug 182016
 
2016 Summer and Autumn Everest Attempts

After a record breaking Spring season on Everest, the mountain will see no rest this summer and now autumn. Summer: Kilian Jornet As I previously reported, Spanish speed climber Kilian Jornet will attempt to set a speed record by climbing from the Rongbuk Monastery (Tibet) to the summit in a single push. He expects to take around 20 hours to summit and about 35 hours to descend. Kilian and his three partners are already in Tibet.  He expects to start the climb in a few weeks. Autumn: Nobukazu Kuriki And now Japanese climber, Nobukazu Kuriki, will return for his sixth autumn (post-monsoon), no O’s, climbing alone, attempt on Everest. continue reading

Aug 032016
 
Summer Everest Speed Climb - Updated

Update 12 August 2016 Kilian Jornet and team have completed their accilization with 4 days in Nepal’s Langtang valley and will now fly to Lhasa. It should take them a few days to drive to the Rongbuk Monastery, rest up and perhaps begin their Everest speed attempt in mid to late August depending on weather. If the headline made you look, then you are an Everest fan. 95% of all Everest summits occur in the Spring, almost exclusively from mid to late May – after the winter snows and just before the annual monsoonal rains. A paltry 0.1% of all summits since 1953 continue reading

Jul 192016
 
2016 Edition: Nepal to Limit Everest Climbers through New Rules ... Again!

For those of you who follow Everest, each year the Nepal government announces new rules to make Everest safer and less crowded and safer. Thus it is time for the 2016 edition as announced in the newspaper The Himalayan Times from our good friend Rajan Pokhrel. These are similar to one announced last year but there is a thought that they could go thru this time because, believe it or not, the government is more stable. New Rules, Bad Concepts In looking at the 2016 edition, there are a few problems. While I agree requiring prior experience on a 7000m continue reading

Jul 032016
 
Summit Fraud on Everest?

How can a climber get a summit certificate and not summit? Well apparently all that is needed is a current summit photo and basic skills with Photoshop. Before I get into this year’s post-season controversy, let’s get this out of the way – climbers cheat, cyclists cheat, baseball/football/basketball/soccer players and even entire countries cheat in the Olympics. So holding any one of these segments as holier than thou is a mistake at best and naive at worst. AND it does not make one single cheater correct or absolve them of their false claim. Indian Couple Claims 1st Everest Summit So this year’s media frenzy continue reading

Jun 222016
 
Can a Vegan Summit Everest?

Can diet be an indicator of success on Everest? This past year, the tragic death and subsequent focus on Maria (Marissa) Strydom’s desire to ‘prove vegans can do anything” created a tremendous amount of headlines around diet for climbers and in many cases lead to shameful ridicule of her beliefs and practices. Meanwhile other climbers claiming to be vegans, have quietly summited Everest thus proving Ms. Strydom’s theory. This brief post is not intended to advocate any lifestyle or delve deeply into being a vegan but more to shed some light on being a vegan, vegetarian or carnivore and climbing. Pure Vegan? Kuntal Joisher summited on continue reading

Jun 162016
 
A Personal Letter to Everest 2016, and 2017, Summiteers

“I want to climb Everest, but there is so much negative press about it. I don’t want to add to the problems.”, she added with genuine concern as I was having coffee this week with two 20 something aspiring climbers. Her statement got my attention. On one hand, I admired her ethics, on the other, damn it, she shouldn’t let anyone stop her dreams. With the 2016 season now over and people making plans for 2017 and beyond, I want to, in private 🙂 , have a few words with those of you who summited this year and make a few suggestions for those thinking about 2017. continue reading

May 312016
 
Everest 2016: Season Summary - A Normal Season

Everest 2016 was a success by many measures. Climbers achieved life long dreams and a country got a break. It was a ‘normal’ season with around 600 summits but sadly there were five deaths plus one on Lhotse. However in stark contrast to the previous four years on Everest, 2016 lacked large scale tragedy or extreme drama. If ever a poor country needed a break, it was Nepal in early 2016. The ‘business’ of Mount Everest means more than foreigners trying to summit the world’s highest mountain. It means pride, jobs, a future for the next generation and obviously, money. This is my annual season continue reading

May 312016
 
Everest 2016: Team Locations and Headlines

Welcome to Alan Arnette’s Everest 2016 coverage My annual coverage is based on my own summit and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest. I attempted Lhotse this spring but ended it early due to an upper respiratory infection. A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who joins the Alzheimer’s Prevention Registry or makes a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits. Manage email notifications of new posts using the form in the lower right corner of this continue reading

May 292016
 
Everest/Lhotse 2016: Season Ends with Strong North Summits

It appears the Everest 2016 season is over with the base camps on the Nepal and Tibet side becoming ghost towns. I will post a full summary of the entire 2016 season along with my thoughts on the season next week, but wanted to make sure I included a brief coverage of the summits from the north as the south usually gets all the attention. I estimate (and its a wild guess) that about 135 people summited from Tibet this year, compared to over 400 from Nepal. Getting accurate numbers and stories from that side of the mountain is difficult, thus the limited coverage. And some people shun all continue reading

May 232016
 
Everest/Lhotse 2016: Why People Die on Everest

Why do people die on Mount Everest? That is the question many people are asking this Monday after three deaths were reported over the weekend, five thus far for the season with tragically more to be reported. Sadly, many of the press articles, and pundits, are looking for a villain, someone or some organization to blame. Much of this is a good intentioned effort to save future lives but some are self-serving efforts to demonize climbers, guides and climbing itself. So with the caveat that I also have an agenda, lets look at why people die on Everest without going too continue reading