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Dec 092019
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I/II

With winter now here, its time to review the Himalayan action for the next few months. There are expeditions planned for K2, Everest, Broad Peak, and the Gasherbrums plus a few other peaks. I’ll cover Everest and K2 in two separate posts. This is for K2 and Broad Peak. See this post for Everest. K2 Money Woes First up is Mingma Gyalje Sherpa‘s Imagine Nepal effort. In 2011, Mingma became the first Nepalese to summit all the 8000ers. He made the grand K2 Winter announcement on September 7, 2019: This winter we will try K2 via Abruzzi Route following the traditional and most continue reading

Dec 092019
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Everest

With winter now here, its time to review the Himalayan action for the next few months. There are expeditions planned for K2, Everest, Broad Peak, and the Gasherbrums plus a few other peaks. I’ll cover Everest and K2 in two separate posts. This is for Everest and the other planned climbs. See this post for K2. Everest 2020 – Two Separate Attempts There are two separate attempts. Jost Kobusch had announced he would attempt from the southside, crossing over the Lho La Pass to the West Ridge and then ascend the Hornbein-Couloir (A on this map) but this may have changed continue reading

Dec 012019
How Much Does it Cost to Climb Mount Everest? - 2020 Edition

2020 is my eighth year to blog, “How much does it cost to climb Mount Everest?” For the second straight year, we see significant changes in the prices and rules applied to Everest from Nepal and China. However, the overall impact of these changes is very uncertain. As usual, I’ll break everything down in this post. So, how much does it cost to climb Mount Everest? As I’ve said for years, the short answer is a car or at least $30,000, but most people pay about $45,000, and some will pay as much as $160,000! But, the prices are going continue reading

Nov 252019
Interview with Nabin Trital of Expedition Himalaya

Over the last five years, much of the guiding business in Nepal has shifted from foreign-owned companies to Nepali owned and based guide services. One is Expedition Himalaya owned and run by Nabin Trital. I caught up with him to check on his business and get his thoughts on recent announcements and prices increase from China. Q: Nabin you have run a trekking agency for years in Kathmandu and helped many expeditions obtain permits and run expeditions. When did you begin your business? Who has been some of your more famous clients? I have been engaged in running expeditions since continue reading

Oct 112019
Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Carlos, 80, Ends Dhaulagiri Attempt; Season Wrap-Up

Looking to summit all 14 of the 8,000-meter peaks, Carlos Soria Fontán has only Dhaulagiri and Shishapangma remaining, but Dhaul is proving to be difficult. The 80-year-old Spanish climber ended his 10th attempt overnight as high winds pummelled the summit and their Camp 3 location at 7,250-meters/23,790-feet. The summit is 8,167-meters/26,794-feet. With a poor weather forecast, it appears this season is over. Outfitter Expedition Base provided these details: Dhaulagiri Expedition update: news in not long ago. All climbers (unconfirmed) from all teams have called it at Camp 3 and are descending to base camp. The high winds were unrelenting for more than continue reading

Oct 062019
Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Last Climbers Abandon Everest

Nims confirmed his last climb of his Project Possible and the remaining teams on Everest leave due to the end of the season and serac dangers. Everest – And Then There Were None Madison Mountaineering and Kilian Jornet both fearing the devasting effect of being hit by the trailer sized ice serac a few thousand feet above the Khumbu Icefall when it falls, have officially abandoned their climbs. Their Nepali logistics organizer, Iswari Paudel, Managing Director at Himalayan Guides, confirmed their decision in the Himalayan Times Garrett told me yesterday: Yes, I think I’m going to call it off tomorrow…we’re running out continue reading

Oct 052019
Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: New Everest Serac Picture

Well, the autumn Himalaya season seems to have a second breath on Manaslu. Disaster nearly avoided on Dhaulagiri climbers and a new picture of the hanging serac over the Everest Khumbu Icefall. Russians are back on Manaslu.  Carlos Soria Fontán at age 80 will make one more summit bid on Dhaulagiri. And, an unclimbed route on Ama Dablam. Everest – Serac Watch Madison Mountaineering‘s team is down to Garret and one client. They are at base camp and seem content to wait as long as their permit allows (which is mid October) to see if anything happens with the serac. Garrett checked in and continue reading

Oct 032019
Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Dhaulagiri Summits!

Extremely determined Dhaulagiri climbers made the summit this morning. No movement on Everest and climbs have ended on Manaslu, Cho Oyu. Dhaulagiri – Summits!! Sergi Mingote summited in tough conditions. This summit takes him halfway through his program to summit all the 8000ers in 1,000 days. Now he has seven including K2, Broad Peak, Manaslu, Lhotse, Nanga Parbat, and Gasherbrum II. Sergi posted this today: I’VE REACHED THE TOP! In only 444 days this is the seventh 8000 m-summit, without the help of artificial oxygen. After Broad Peak, K2, Manaslu, Lhotse, Nanga Parbat and Gasherbrum II, today I’ve already reached continue reading

Oct 022019
Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: Determined Climbers Not Giving Up

Looks like everyone is off Cho Oyu by the Chinese imposed October 1 deadline. Almost everyone is finished with Manaslu and the Dhaulagiri climbers will either summit or turn back over the next couple of days fighting deep snow conditions. And on Everest, serac watch continues for a determined few. More flight problems for Lukla. Project Possible: Permit Approved, Nim’s Quiet Nirmal Purja has not confirmed on his social media that he received the permit from China to climb Shishapangma but multiple media reports say he has been approved. One said he must wait until at least October 8 to enter continue reading

Sep 302019
Autumn 2019 Himalayan Season: China Issues Shishapangma Permit to Nims

Multiple media outlets are reporting that China has agreed to give Nirmal Purja a permit to climb Shishapangma to achieve his self-imposed timetable of November 23 to summit all 14 of the 8000ers in seven months. Thus far there has been no word on Nims’ social media. The news broke on this Italian website and then after I reached out to the Himalaya Times to confirm this story they reported: “Dawa Sherpa, Managing Director at Climbalaya Treks told THT that he received a message from China and Tibet Mountaineering Association that Purja-led team would get a special permit for Mt Shishapangma at continue reading