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Everest 2018: Team Locations and Headlines

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Jan 142018
Everest 2018: Team Locations and Headlines

Alan Arnette’s Everest 2018 coverage and annual coverage is based on my own Everest and K2 summits and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest. A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who joins the Alzheimer’s Prevention Registry or makes a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s nonprofits.   HEADLINE: Remembering the 9,000 lost in 2015 See all the Everest 2018 posts here Latest News: 25 April 2018 (Everest time: GMT+5:45) Current Headlines Three years ago today, at continue reading

Apr 242018
Everest 2018: The Day Nepal Shook

Some memories are so etched into your essence, that they will never go away and they will always be clear. The day my mom asked me “Now, who are you again?” The day I met Di and publicly committed to her in our backyard three years later. The day the Khumbu Glacier dropped by inches under my feet while hearing the roar of avalanches all around me. Yes, Memories are Everything. Three years ago today, at 11:56 am April 25th, 2015, a 7.8 magnitude earthquake hit in Nepal taking 9,000 lives, including 19 at Everest Base Camp. A Short Walk I continue reading

Apr 242018
Everest 2018: The Challenge of Acclimization

It has been a good day on Everest as climbers are working hard to acclimitize. Teams on the Nepal side are all over the Hill, from base camp to Camp 2 while it’s a similar map on the Tibet side with teams now at Advanced Base Camp. We are hearing from a few climbers who have returned from their rotations, mostly on the south side. The reports are consistent that the Icefall is good, it’s windy in the Cwm and they are having great time. The “Ice Cliff”In the Cwm IMG has been talking about a steep “ice cliff” in continue reading

Apr 232018
Everest 2018: The Right Age for Everest

It’s busy on Everest just as it should be in late April. We have teams at Camp 2 on the South side and ABC on the North. Ropes are going higher so all is well. In this post I review the action and take a look at the best age to climb Everest. Icefall Update We have been hearing all season that the Khumbu Icefall route is in the best shape in years, meaning few ladders (about 7) and reasonably smooth (as much as a moving glacier ever is!), but that doesn’t mean it is without hazards. Remember the Khumbu continue reading

Apr 222018
Everest 2018: Stormy Future for Everest and the Other 8000ers?

All is well on Everest, except for the normal issues associated with acclimatizing. I’m seeing a lot of talk about the weather so this post looks at what they may expect across the Himalaya and whats happening on the other peaks. Ropes to C3! On the Nepal side, great news with the ropes now set all the way to C3. This is quite early. There is a lot of activity now with team after team climbing to Camps 1 and 2 in the Western Cwm. Adventure Consultants notes the wind is tough: Lydia, Brad, Robin and Mike D. had a continue reading

Apr 212018
Everest 2018: Weekend Update 21 April

For some Everest climbers, they left home a month ago, others are leaving today. But for all, they’re dreaming of summits in a just a few weeks. The season continues smoothly with little issues and good progress on both sides. The weather remains good. Ropes are being set on the Nepal side, soon on the Tibetan side and climbers are moving on their first rotation on both sides. The Big Picture About this time each year, climbers on both sides begin to move up the mountain to acclimatize their bodies for the summit push in about three weeks. On the continue reading

Apr 202018
Everest 2018: A Normal Day

All is well on both sides of Everest as we enter the weekend. The China Tibet Mountaineering Association announced that 150 foreigners have been given permits on the Tibet side. This compares to 336 foreign permits issued on the Nepal side according to the Nepal Ministry of Tourism. This is slightly down from last year. Fear of Flying Things are pretty normal at Everest but back in Kathmandu, a plane skidded off the runway at 10:30 pm on Thursday, shutting the airport down. This is the only international (and domestic) airport in Kathmandu so the early morning flights to Lhasa for continue reading

Apr 192018
Everest 2018: First Climbers into the Western Cwm

Right on schedule, the first clients are in the Western Cwm. The Sherpas have already been making trips there to establish the camps. While it is short in distance, the altitude makes it long in time. These are the distances and usual times from Everest Base Camp on the Nepal (south) side for a foreigner first time up. Sherpas times will be the lower of the range. Base Camp: 17,500’/5,334m C1: 19,500’/5,943m – 3-6 hours, 1.62 miles C2: 21,000’/6,400m – 2-3 hours, 1.74 miles More and more leaders are commenting on the quality of the route through the Khumbu Icefall continue reading

Apr 192018
Everest 2018: Interview with Matt Moniz - Extraordinary Youth

This interview with Matt Moniz is one of an ongoing series I do each season with Everest climbers. Not the famous, sponsored ones who get plenty of publicity but the regular people, who often have full-time jobs, full time families and climb for the love of the climb. Most climbers are already at base camp so this may be the last interview for 2018 but I welcome suggestions for anyone I should interview. I met Matt and his family years ago here in Colorado. I knew the moment that I shook his hand that he was “different” 🙂 Polite, mature, continue reading

Apr 182018
Everest 2018: A Big Year - Again

Looks like another big year on Everest, but not a record. Teams continue to arrive at the base camps but are also beginning to climb. Progress is swift on the Nepal side and about to take off on the Tibetan side. Nepal – Into the Icefall! EBC is buzzing with activity. Guides are running their clients through skills review. There is a training course set up just aside of camp that many teams will share. It usually includes some steep snow slopes, a couple of ladders (horizontal and vertical) and a rappel station. As I mentioned in an earlier post, continue reading