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Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Dec 052018
 
China Clamps Down on Everest Climbs

Over the past few years, I’ve been predicting two things will change dramatically about climbing Everest: 1) It will get more expensive and 2) China will make it more difficult to climb from their side. A recent announcement by Chinese Mountaineering Association and Mountaineering Association of Tibet aka CTMA has shown both to be true. China has informed operators that effective January 1, 2019, several new rules will be put in place: “expedition formation, audit, reception, management, safety and environmental protection” for mountain expeditions on Cho Oyu, Shishapangma and, of course, Everest. If implemented and enforced, this is a big continue reading

Dec 022018
 
2018/19 Winter K2, Nanga Parbat but No Everest

As the winter of 2018/19 begins, we are seeing another set of attempts on the world’s second highest peak K2 however the winter Everest commercial expedition has been cancelled.  K2 remains the only 8,000-meter mountain not summited in winter and Everest has only a few. Also there will be a winter attempt by a new route on Nanga Parbat. Before I get to who is climbing, one of the more interesting aspects of claiming a winter summit is exactly when is winter? Big Picture – When does Winter End? If you remember the K2 attempt last winter, there was a lot continue reading

Sep 022018
 

News broke in July, 2018 that Sherpa owned and operated guide company, Seven Summits Treks (SST), had forged Everest climbing permits for two clients cheating the Government out of $22,000 in royalty fees. SST has been fined double the permit fees and the clients fined and sentenced to jail time. Caught When the Himalayan Times published the story SST Chairman and co- founder Mingma Sherpa responded on Facebook: We seven summit treks pay around more than 2 million dollars royalty fee every year to the government . Why would we make fake permit for $20000 . Look we paid money for all continue reading

Aug 292018
 
Everest Rescue Scams Expose Corruption Across Nepal

A war has been brewing between the Everest rescue/insurance companies and the local operators for years now. This summer the battle hit the tipping point when a thorough investigative report by AFP reporter Annabel Symington found systematic cooperation amongst local guide companies, helicopter services and even some hospitals in Kathmandu to scam the rescue/insurance companies through fraudulent claims. An investigation by the Nepal government verified the charges. As usual, the Nepali government went into damage control but it remains to be seen if anything of substance changes. However trekkers and climbers going to Nepal, and even Pakistan, from now on continue reading

Aug 262018
 
Update: 2018 Oxygen Failure on Everest - Regulator Recall

Followers of the Everest 2018 spring climbing season will recall that a few teams experienced a failure of their supplemental oxygen systems provided by the UK company, Summit Oxygen (SO). While alarming, to maintain a sense of perspective, it was 25 out of 500 to 1,000 that regulators failed, not a massive failure as some described. Neil Greenwood, the founder and Managing Director of SO, has sent me an update on what caused the problems the solution. He is recalling several batches of faulty regulators. Regulator Failures at 8,000-meters. First reported by Lucas Furtenbach’s north side Everest team, multiple teams continue reading

HBO Special on Everest: A Missed Opportunity

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Aug 202018
 
HBO Special on Everest: A Missed Opportunity

I’ve been an avid fan of HBO Real Sports for years, but when it comes to Everest, they seem to miss golden opportunities to tell the “Real” story. For Everest Haters, this segment will reenforce their beliefs. For Everest fans, they will immediately sees the holes in the reporting and for everyone else, they will wait for the next story on drugs in the NFL or illegal horse race gambling. Airing on Tuesday, August 21, 2018, a segment entitled “High Stakes at Mount Everest”, David Scott, a veteran television journalist, who has broken many important stories including the controversy surrounding continue reading

Jun 022018
 
Preparing for Everest 2019!

With #Everest2018 in the books, I wanted to step back and see what lessons were available from this season and how to prepare for #Everest2019, if that’s in your mind. First off, let me start with a plug for my consulting service, Summit Coach, where I have worked with many climbers over the past 18 months to help them successfully summit Everest, Gasherbrum II, Denali and other peaks across the world. More on this in a moment. Everest 2018: The Good and the Bad This season was good in many respects with my estimate of a record 700+ summits and a continue reading

May 242018
 
Everest 2018: Season Summary - Record Weather, Record Summits

With an unprecedented weather window, the Everest season is winding down I estimate a total of over 800 summits smashing the previous record set in 2013 of 667 from both sides by members and support climbers. The Nepal Ministry of Tourism reported on 16 August 2018 that a total of 563 people summited during the spring of 2018 made up of 302 High Altitude Workers (aka Sherpas) and 261 foreigners (aka members) using the standard Southeast Ridge route in Nepal. I estimate 239 summits on the Northeast Ridge in Tibet. Nepal issued 347 Everest climbing permits to foreigners, including 20 continue reading

May 242018
 
Everest 2018: May 25 Team Locations and Headlines

UPDATED: May 25, 2018 This is Alan Arnette’s Everest 2018 coverage and annual coverage and based on my own Everest and K2 summits and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest. A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who joins the Alzheimer’s Prevention Registry or makes a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s nonprofits.   HEADLINE: Season is Over 800+ Summits, 5 Deaths See all the Everest 2018 posts here Latest News: 25 May 2018 (Everest time: GMT+5:45) Current Headlines continue reading

May 242018
 
Everest 2018: Wave 11 Recap - All over after 11  Straight Summit Days!

I was told yesterday, 23 May, by Gyanendra Shrestha the senior representative of the Ministry Of Tourism & Civil Avation. Kathmandu at Everest Base Camp  “a few more” will try to summit Everest this season. But as of late Thursday 24 May on Everest, it appears to be over. Several of the more ambitious expeditions on Everest have not succeeded this year. A Record Year? #Everest2018 appears to a record summit year. I estimate 715 total (476-Nepal, 239-Tibet). 2017 had 648 (411-Nepal, 237-Tibet). The record was 667 in 2013. An unprecedented 11 straight summit days made it happen plus unusually warm temperatures on many days. continue reading

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