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Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Feb 272015

Welcome to Alan Arnette’s Everest 2015 coverage

My coverage is based on my own summit and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest.  I will be climbing Lhotse thus will be reporting from Everest Base Camp this year with all the regular features plus videos and interviews directly from the mountain as it happens.

As part of my Alzheimer’s advocacy work, I am encouraging everyone to enroll in the Alzheimer’s Prevention Registry. 80% of all clinical trails fail due to lack of volunteers. The Registry strives to overcome that hurdle by engaging people 18 and older of all races and ethnicities who are committed to ending Alzheimer’s, whether or not they have a family history of the disease.

From simple questionnaires and surveys, to brain imaging studies and even pharmaceutical trials to evaluate investigational medications and therapies, the Registry offers members many ways in which to participate. Joining the Registry does not obligate you to take part in a study or clinical trial.

I have made the personal commitment and joined the registry.


Latest Everest News – March 1, 2015

The season is rapidly approaching under the scrutiny of the world’s media after the 2014 tragic season which ended early. If you want your blog or team tracked, please contact me.

  • Some of these links are broken but will be updated for 2015 as soon as they are available from the source
  • A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who joins the Registry or makes a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits.
  • Manage email notifications of new posts using the form in the lower right corner of this page

South Col Route (map)

Everest only TEAMS (clients/western guides)
Facebook for AC TwitterforAC Adventure Consultants
Facebook for AG Twitterfor AG Adventures Global
Facebook for AAI Twitter for AAI Alpine Ascents Int.
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI Arnold Coster Expeditions
Asian Trekking Eco Teams
Altitude Junkies
Facebook for MT Twitter for PF Benegas Brothers
Exploradus Expedition
Facebook for IMG Himex
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF IMG Classic
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF IMG Hybrid
Facebook for JG Twitter for PF Jagged Globe
Facebook for MT Twitter for PF RMI
Madison Mountaineering
Facebook for IMG Mountain Gurus
Facebook for IMG Saatori Expeditions
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Summit Climb
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Tim Mosedale
Trek 8848

Northeast Ridge Route (map)

TEAMS (clients/western guides)
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI Asian Trekking
Facebook for AG Twitterfor AG Alpenglow
Adventure Peaks
British Army
Kari Kobler
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Summit Climb
7 Summits Club
e=climb ended, x=last reported location, x+ =on summit bid, -x =descending h=high sleep point, t=touched not slept. Summit number=client/Sherpa. Locations estimated from public website. Please refer to each expedition’s site for current information. Contact me to add/remove your team from my coverage.

I did similar coverage for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013 and 2014 seasons. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011 and have climbed Everest four times – 2002, 2003, 2008 and 2011.

If you will forgive the self promotion, Outside Magazine posted in February 2013 an extensive interview with me where I talk abut my childhood, mountains, Everest and of course Alzheimer’s. I appreciate their interest and help. They even said I was “one of the world’s most respected chronicler of Everest”

If you receive value from my annual Everest coverage, please consider a donation to one of these Alzheimer’s nonprofits, 100% for Alzheimer’s, none for me. thank you. Click this link to understand my personal journey with this disease


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Everest 2015: Team Locations
Mar 022015
Everest 2015: The Right Gear

With a month before most climbers arrive in Nepal to begin their Everest climb, gear decisions have been made, but I thought it might be good to submit a few last minute ideas. As I pack for Lhotse, I will use the same gear I used in 2011 to summit Everest since they share 80% of the same route, however I will make a few changes. I like to think of Everest, in terms of gear, in four stages: Trek to Base Camp Base Camp life Acclimatization Rotations Summit Bid If you have looked at my gear list, you will continue reading

Feb 232015
Lhotse 2015: A Personal Commitment

In early April, I’m returning to Nepal, the Himalaya and to the Everest region. This will be my 11th trip since 1997 and I will be climbing the world’s fourth highest mountain, Lhotse at 27,940 feet or 8516 meters. As always, I will use my attempt to bring awareness to Alzheimer’s Disease but this time not only for donations to research but to ask readers and followers to join the Alzheimer’s Prevention Registry. A Personal Commitment The day my mom, Ida, asked me “Who are you?” was the day my life changed forever. I made a personal commitment to do continue reading

Feb 212015
The "New" Route on Everest

This past week, there has been extensive media coverage of a “new” route on Everest. Once again, shallow journalism has misstated reality. The fact is that there is not a totally new route but rather a small change within the Khumbu Icefall that amounts to about 4% of the traditional Southeast Ridge route being effected. The BBC is mostly responsible for this headline with their article and other outlets picking it up and simply parroting the story. In the first version, since changed, the BBC article, as I read it, suggested the route would no longer traverse through the Icefall continue reading

Feb 132015
Everest 2015: Permit Status for 2014 Climbers

This is one of those posts that may be unnecessary but I do it for completeness. Roughly 250 climbers bought a permit to climb Everest in the spring of 2014. Of course we all know the season was effectively canceled after a small band of Sherpas influenced the others to stop climbing including the critical Icefall Doctors who manged the ladders and route through the Khumbu Icefall. The deaths of 16 mountain workers from a release of an ice serac off Everest’s West Shoulder was the primary reason for the work stoppage. Their deaths were used to successfully get the continue reading

Jan 232015
Everest 2015: The Moment You Know

For many people, they can tell you the exact moment when a dream became reality, when planning became real, when the butterfly began to move from within. For many Everest climbers, that was this week. Everest is not a spur of the moment decision, it’s sometimes a life long dream – literally. Some climbers, in their teenage years, carefully read each word in famous books, letting the imagery sink in as they tried to envision themselves on the Lhotse Face or at the North Col. Now decades later they will get their chance. Other climbers, later in life, made a continue reading

Jan 062015
An Inside Look at What Everest 2015 May Bring

In only 90 days, climbers from around the world will arrive in Kathmandu seeking to summit the world’s highest mountain. However with the deaths of 19 Sherpa in 2014, the world’s attention, and media, will be focused hoping to record the drama that comes with every Everest season. I reached out to the leading Everest guides around the world, including local Nepali companies and some Sherpa, to get a feel for how their preparations were going as well as what they anticipated from this spring season. The bottom line: a slightly smaller number of climbers on the South, a bit continue reading

Dec 262014
An Open Letter to Everest 2015 Climbers

While at a holiday party this week, I struck up a conversation with a gentleman who had recently attempted several peaks in Peru. He told me of his struggles and how he turned back around 6000 meters not sure of himself. He went on to proudly tell me about his 2008 trek to Everest Base Camp and how he had amazing views from Kala Patar of Everest. I asked him several questions about his experience and tried to very, very briefly share a bit of mine wanting to let him know that turning back from a summit was a wise continue reading

Dec 152014
Everest 2015: The Cost to Climb Everest

Everest 2015 is quickly approaching and it is time to update my annual look at the costs. Many climbers will be in for sticker shock as prices have dramatically increased for 2015. Also, the North side will see much more activity as some operators have fled the south after the strange polices and actions of the Nepal government and some Sherpas. See my full preview of Everest 2015 I  posted in October. If you value this post and find the ads interesting, clicking on them will help support this site. Click for Current Coverage of the Everest 2015 Season The continue reading

Dec 112014

The title says it all. EverestER, and the University of Washington have developed a survey to try and answer this question in an unbiased and objective manner. If you have attempted Everest, the survey is for you. It is anonymous, confidential and you can chose what questions to answer. I took the survey myself. In my 37 major expeditions including four to Everest, I personally never witnessed an over use of drugs other than to treat illness. Some did use Diamox to accelerate acclimatization but this survey is trying to get to more serious drugs used to enhance a climber’s continue reading