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Jan 212018
 
Winter K2 and Everest Climbs - A Rare Summit on Pumori!

This week both the Everest and K2 team should make huge progress.  Over on Nanga Parbat, the two-person team will attempt to summit midweek. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Big Picture Entering their third week, both the K2 and Everest teams continue to set the route and acclimatize. They are busy establishing the low camps i.e. under 7000-meters before moving higher. Winter K2 The Polish team reports excellent weather for the first time in a few days. They continue to rotate climbers up continue reading

Jan 182018
 
Winter K2 and Everest Updates

Progress when climbing 8000-meter mountains is often measured in small steps, and that is what we have this week.  Also, it appears the Nanga Parbat team is heading for a summit attempt. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Big Picture Both the K2 and Everest teams continue to acclimatize as well as trying to establish the low camps i.e. under 7000-meters before moving higher. The main issue has been, is and will always be wind. If it is about 30 mph/48 continue reading

Jan 162018
 
K2 and Everest Winter Efforts Begin Climbing

Now that both the K2 and Everest teams are nicely established at their respective base camps, they are beginning to make progress climbing the Hills.  See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Big Picture Both teams are dealing with the same challenge: establish camps to support their summit push. Both will put in fixed lines to protect them from falls. Along the way, they will set up camps along the route. The highest camps will most likely be created on their summit continue reading

Jan 152018
 
Everest 2018: Welcome to Everest 2018 Coverage

Welcome to the kick-off for my Everest 2018 coverage! I have already posted a few articles on 2018 and am actively covering both the Everest and K2 winter attempts so let me officially welcome you. This will be my 17th season of all-things Everest: 11 times providing coverage, another 4 seasons of actually climbing on Everest and two years attempting Lhotse. I did similar coverage for the 2004,  2005,  2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016 and 2017 seasons. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011, and have attempted Everest three other times – 2002, 2003, 2008 and Lhotse in 2015 and 2016. If you are one of my continue reading

Jan 142018
 
Everest 2018: Team Locations and Headlines

Alan Arnette’s Everest 2018 coverage and annual coverage is based on my own Everest and K2 summits and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest. A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who joins the Alzheimer’s Prevention Registry or makes a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s nonprofits.   HEADLINE: Expecting a Normal 2018 Season on Both Sides See all the Everest 2018 posts here,  Last News: January 2018 (Everest time: GMT+5:45) See all the Everest 2017 posts continue reading

Jan 122018
 
K2 and Everest Winter Efforts Gets Serious and a Death

Both the K2 and Everest teams have established a base camp and touched their mountains. In other news sadly a death on Lobuche Peak in Nepal. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Winter K2 The Polish team arrived at the spot where they are currently building their base camp. Meanwhile, a few climbers began to fix a small part of the route up the Česen. They are reporting high winds at base camp that has delayed some progress but also some issues with continue reading

Jan 082018
 
Everest 2018: Another Everest Guide Leaves Nepal for China: Altitude Junkies

Phil Crampton’s Altitude Junkies has run Everest climbs from both Nepal and Tibet for 10 years and for 2018 he is making a radical change, returning to his roots. Phil began climbing Everest in 2001 thus is in a unique position to comment on the changing business of Everest plus the impact of recent crowds, government policies, and strategies used by other outfits to attract a wide range of climbers. Phil’s switch is the third guide company to leave Nepal for Tibet over the last several years. Is this the beginning of a movement indicating problems in Nepal or just continue reading

Jan 062018
 
Winter K2 and Everest Progress to Base Camp

The Polish K2 team is trekking up the Baltoro Glacier and should be at K2 base camp around 8/9 January and the Everest team has arrived at base camp but had a problem already. Also updates on a few other winter climbs. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Winter K2 The Polish team continues to trek over the Baltoro Glacier towards K2 Base Camp. It’s reported they have 100 porters! Friday, 5 January was Krzysiek Wielicki’s 68th birthday. He is leading the team. They continue reading

Dec 312017
 
K2 and Everest Winter Teams on the Move

The Polish K2 team is now in Pakistan and the Everest team in the Khumbu. It will be weeks before they begin actually climbing either peak. See this post for full background on both expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains on Earth. Winter K2 I received this update today from the Polish team: News from Pakistan: The expedition crew arrived in Skardu today by morning, all rested and in excellent moods. Repacking and preparing jeeps and tomorrow they will drive to Askole, from where the caravan will go to K2 Base Camp. Everything according continue reading

Dec 282017
 
Comparing the Routes of Everest - 2018 edition

For 98% of all Everest climbers, the choice of routes comes down between the Northeast (Tibet) and Southeast (Nepal) Ridges. For most everyone, all other routes are too dangerous, too difficult and not commercially guided. This post will take a look at the various routes and go deep into the most popular commercial ones. It may be an exaggeration to say that almost all the routes that can be climbed on Everest, have been climbed because a new generation of climbers always finds a way to blaze new trails. However, it does appear that Everest has been well scouted now continue reading