Everest 2012: Cold and Windy, Lhotse Face Fixed

A variety of reports today as the teams are busy doing what climbers do!

Phil Crampton reports his Altitude Junkies teams climbed to the North Col in spite of extreme conditions thus completing their first acclimatization rotation. They will return to base camp to regroup before heading back up to spend the nights at the North Col. Axe posted a nice dispatch where his voice reveals the demands of this climb.

The rope is now fixed to Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face opening the way for teams to spend the required night at Camp 3 over 7000m or 23, 500′. More on this later but this may be the singular moment when climbers look at an Everest climb very differently.

Matt Thorton makes an impassioned plea for respecting the planet in the Blog of the Day. Some good insights from this young man.

In the past there have been unacceptable levels of litter disposal problems on Mount Everest and indeed on the trail from Lukla to Base Camp. The heavy human traffic inevitably takes its toll on the resources available to deal with this problem. Wherever I am climbing/trekking and just enjoying the outdoor life, check I do love the environment and I do care about leaving a better place for all future generations to enjoy as I do.

More details are being revealed involving alcohol abuse with the death of 40 year old Karsang Namgyal Sherpa at Everest Base Camp last week. He was climbing with another team but worked for Russell Brice at one point. The Himex blog tells us the story. Of note deaths related to alcohol have happened before at EBC most recently in 2009 when a young porter died from alcohol poisoning.

Himex also discusses the condition of the upped Khumbu Icefall. This area is notorious for huge ice block and serious instability as it is the point where the Khumbu glacier begins to gain speed as it flows downhill towards base camp, here over 2,000′. The route this year hugs the left side of the Icefall to avoid that area but puts climbers in the fall line of hanging seracs on the West Shoulder of Everest. It is a lose-lose situation. Hopefully the seracs will stay in place for another month.

Climb On!
Memories are Everything

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5 thoughts on “Everest 2012: Cold and Windy, Lhotse Face Fixed

  1. Very sad for Karsyang Namygyal Sherpas family and friends.He was obviously the family provider. Apart from the Everest work,what else do the Sherpa families do to earn a living?.Who owns the surrounding land and the crops that are planted?The reports you included in your blog took us to the reports in detail and were really interesting and as usual helped to fire our imaginations.Thanks Kate

  2. Himex Blog gives a detailed story on the Sherpa’s tragic death due to alcohol. Unfortunately, ethnic culture encourages use of Rakshi/ Rum/ Beer for all social events. Wish Sherpas understand the need to keep alcohol at bay in high mountains just as Phurba Tashi did.

    R.I.P Karsyang Namgyal Sherpa.

  3. Considering the effects of alcohol, especially at altitude, i wonder whether there is a case for banning alcohol on the peninsula entirely. My heart goes out to Karsang Namgyal Sherpa and his family. Climb On.

  4. I agree with Don. The alcohol and other drug use is seldom spoken about among teams and Sherpas. Good for you to see it as it is Alan!

  5. There’s an alcoholism issue , more obvious maybe among workers and hidden elsewhere. Glad to read that prominent people discuss it openly.

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