Nepal issued 68 permits to foreigners for Kanchenjunga, 8586-meters, this spring. Today, May 5, 2022, at least 30 stood on the summit, and a few very strong climbers turned back. Hungarian climber Varga Csaba noted, “Today’s climbing was made difficult by the scorching heat. However, since it snows every day, fresh snow slows down the progress.”
As usual, there is a bit of fog around who summited, turned back, and who is still moving up the mountain. So take all media reports, including mine, as an approximation and not perfect, even though we all do our best.
Let’s start with Pakistani Shehroze Kashif, their country’s youngest climber. He became the youngest ever to reach the summit at 20. He’s also now the youngest to summit the world’s three highest peaks, including his previous top outs on Everest and K2, Manaslu (unknown if true summit), and Broad Peak. Well done!
Pioneer Adventure had a big day with 20 (19?) summits and eight (seven) members supported by 12 climbers. But there is a discrepancy in their reporting and one of their member’s home teams updates.
Members:1. Mr. Chung-Han Lu –
2. Mr. Bhagwan Bhikoba Chawale –
3. Mr. Pankaj Kumar –
4. Mr. Csaba Varga – (Not summitted, reported still at C3 by his home team, and headed up tonight)
5. Ms. Manisha Rishi Gaind –
6. Ms. Priyanka Mangesh Mohite –
7. Mr. Narayanan Iyer –
8. Ms. Cira Idella Crowell –
1. Mingma Dorchi Sherpa/ Leader –
2. Sanu Sherpa/ Leader –
3. Wong Dorchi Sherpa –
4. Pemchiri Sherpa –
5. Tashi Sherpa –
6. Angdawa Sherpa –
7. Lakpa Dorchi Sherpa –
8. Chhangwa Sherpa –
9. Nga Tashi Sherpa –
10. Dandu Sherpa –
11. Phurtenze Sherpa –
12. Pasang Lhamu Akita –
And Seven Summit Treks had six members plus the rope team:
1) Namja Bhote2) Shehroze Kashif @thebroadboy3) Rudi Bollaert4) Purnima Shrestha5) Ariunzul Chuluunbaatar6) Ming Temba Sherpa
One of the few who tuned back was my Dutch friend, Wilco van Rooijen, climbing without supplemental Os. Wilco was climbing with his partner, Cas van de Gevel. Wilco said, ” First hard summit push. We started yesterday evening. We climbed all night till 7800m. But it was too cold, and we tired! We tried, with what we had. Maybe to good summited this giant without O2 after 1 month of acclimatisation. Now save back C3″
These climbers were reported to have made an attempt, but the outcome is still unknown: Horia Colibasanu, Peter Hamor, and Marius Gane.
There are still teams remaining to make an attempt, including Mimnga G of Imagine Nepal, who turned his team back from their first attempt after getting lost and taking the wrong gulley on their first attempt. They left the mountain and regrouped in Kathmandu. A few of the original team will make another attempt. Also ready for their push is the Canadian-led team, KanCan2022, Italian alpinist Marco Confortola, and Spanish climber Lolo Gonzalez.
And on Dhaulagiri, Carlos Sori, 83, Sito Carcavilla, and the six Sherpas have left Dhaulagiri Base Camp. His home team posted:
Hello friends, it seems that the weather gives a truce and tomorrow the 6th we will leave the BC with the idea of trying the Dhaulagiri summit on the 9th. We are ready to try it with all our strength, acclimatized, fit and very motivated. Hope we get lucky! We will inform you.
Finally, climbers are positioning their attempts on Makalu. More updates as they summit.
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