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May 072022
 
HImex's ropes on K2 in summer 2017

11 Sherpas led by Kami Rita, with his 26th summit, got the fixed ropes to the summit earlier than expected. Look for wave upon wave of commercial teams making their summits bids, some as early as tonight. And more summits on Kangchenjunga.

Everest

Kami Rita Sherpa at age 52, led a team of 11 Sherpas who over-powered the upper flanks of Everest on the Nepal side to open the flood gates for commercial summits late Saturday, May 7, 2022, at 6:55 pm. Seven Summit Treks had the contract to fix the upper mountain and assigned these strong Sherpas to the task:

  • Sona Sherpa
  • Ngima Tashi Sherpa
  • Phurba Tsering Sherpa
  • Tenjing Gyaljen Sherpa
  • Lakpa Tenji Sherpa
  • Phurba Kusang Sherpa
  • Mingma Dandhu Sherpa
  • Pastenji Sherpa
  • Tareman Tamang
  • Phurba Chhotar Sherpa

Kami Rita may get number 27th if he guides commercial clients this season. The rope team was now expected to move over to Lhotse and set the line to the summit.

I like this post from Furtenbach Adventures’ lead guide, Dave Watson,  about their Sherpas. Click the link for a great short video.

It’s been said many times that the Sherpa people are the backbone of Himalayan expeditions. They are not only the backbone, they are the heart and soul, the lungs and muscle. They truly make it all happen for the commercial expeditions. On this night in camp 2 (6400m), these studs were getting ready to carry oxygen cylinders up to the high camp on the South Col at nearly 8000 meters. It was around 7pm and very cold. They were shoveling plate fulls of Dal Bhat into their mouths, drinking black tea, going to the bathroom, putting on down suits and big boots, talking shit to one another, fist bumping. It was like watching a pro sports team get ready for a game, but this is obviously higher stakes and real consequence. I’m so proud of our team, I feel privileged just to be near them. I’m so grateful for the effort they put forth for us. I’m grateful they choose to do this work and keep this incredible industry alive, making peoples dreams come true, and that they do it with such grace and humility. I will forever be in awe of the Sherpa people.

We may, may see the first member summits tonight, Saturday, May 8, 2022, including by the Full Circle Everest and/or the Adventure Peaks team plus several Nepali outfits.

Nuptse – No Summits

Tim Mosedale, hoping got get Nuptse, Lhotse, and Everest in one season missed the mark on his first. The team fixed the rope up the wrong gulley on the complex summit band on Nuptse. Mosedale posted:

We’ve had a massive, brutal day. The route up Nuptse is super steep and goes on forever.

Myself and Jay broke trail all the way because the track and ropes were covered in snow and to top it all we didn’t summit!
Very close and it seemed like it was in the bag but we ended up at the right side of the main Nuptse summit not the left side, where the true summit was. This was despite numerous meetings, conversations and photos – each and every time with me saying not left but further left.

So we won’t be joining the celebrated list of ascentiomists after all. And three of today’s group were single season Triple Crowners so that’s staying safe too. We’re now very jaded, very dehydrated and very tired so if you’ll excuse us we need some sleep. Out for now.

Kangchenjunga – More Summits

Noted mountaineering journalist Pintér László provided this update on Kangchenjunga climbers:
Early this afternoon, the Romanian Horia Colibasanu reached the peak of the Kancsendzongga without the help of heavy cargo carriers in Magashegy. In the meantime, they returned safely to their 4 camp, at 7600 meters. Peter Hámor and Marius Gane have returned from the peak attack, they are also in the 4th camp. Marco Confortola from Italy arrived the day before yesterday, also bottled without oxygen. Even today, a national trade expedition team reached the peak with drivers, oxygen, led by Mingma G from Imagine agency. They arrived in the morning hours because they were able to move much faster thanks to the oxygen replacement. We have no news about Csaba Varga at the moment, we wait until he checks in with his home team.

There were also 13  summits by Mimnga G of Imagine Nepal’s team:

1. Sirbaz Khan (Pakistan)
2. Gina Marie Rzucidlo (USA)
3. Jill Wheatley (Canada)
4. Naoki Ishikawa (Japan)
5. Tracee Metcalfe (usa)
6. Chris Warner (USA)
7. Mingma Gyalje sherpa (Nepal)
8. Dawa Gyalje sherpa (Nepal)
9. Chhiring Sherpa (Nepal)
10. Tamting Sherpa (Nepal)
11. Pemba Tenzing Sherpa (Nepal)
12. Pasang Namgel Sherpa (Nepal)
13. Pemba Chhiri Sherpa (Nepal)

Already on their push is the Canadian-led team, KanCan2022, now at Camp 2.

Dhaulagiri – Holding, Again

With fresh snowfall, Carlos Sori, 83, Sito Carcavilla, and the six Sherpas have retreated from C2 to C1 to wait for improved conditions. They were hoping to summit on Monday, May 9, 2022. His home team posted:

During the past night it has not stopped snowing below 6,500 m. Despite starting to walk towards camp II: Carlos Soria, Sito and Mikel Sherpa, have decided to return to camp I to spend one more night in this place and see how the unexpected snowfall evolves.

Also, Kobler & Partner’s team is still hoping got get a chance

Makalu – Holding

Adrian Ballinger, with his Alpenglow team, are ready, just holding for the right conditions.

Denali – Early Death

The tragic death of a lone Austrian climber near Denali Pass placed a cloud over what is expected to be a busy season. Close to 1,000 climbers have registered to attempt The Great One. Matthias Rimml, a 35-year-old professional mountain guide was trying a fast, solo, ascent in five days instead of the usual two weeks. His body was spotted on the fall line below Denali Pass on the West Buttress, route. My condolences to his family and friends. source and more details

Climb On
Alan
Memories are Everything


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