Mingma Gyalje Sherpa founder of Dreamers Destination continues his impressive 2017 with yet another summit of an 8000 meter mountain, Broad Peak. Icelander John Snorri Sigurjónsson also summited BP adding to his two 8000ers this year – K2 and Lhotse.
British-American Vanessa O’Brien who summited K2 with Mingma was not with them but apparently, as reported by Mingma, Fredrik Sträng went along to nab Broad Peak thus not wasting his trip to the Karakorum after not being able to summit K2.
Mingma posted on Facebook:
Finished my 11x8000m peak. Broad peak is my 10th 8000m without oxygen. All safely arrived back to camp3. Congratulation to all my team member. John Snorri became first Icelandic, Ali Reza made twice(on 27july and 4aug), Dawa Gyalje Sherpa, Tsering pemba sherpa completed 11x8000m, Mingma nuru sherpa, Ngima norbu sherpa( both k2 and broad peak without oxygen)
Liu yong zhong completed 11x8000m and Dong hongjuan completed her 10th 8000m.
Fedrick from Sweden also made it but he is not part of our expedition. Summit videos will be posted tomorrow. Thanks for following us.
This is the 31 year-old Mingma’s fourth 8000er summit in 2017: Dhaulagiri on 30 April, Makalu on 14 May, K2 on 29 July and Broad Peak on 5 August. He came very close on Nanga Parbat but said he believes he mistakenly stood on a sub summit and will have to go back. He has summited 11 of the 14 8000 meter mountains.
Sherpa Success on 8000ers
The world’s highest peaks used to be the domain of climbers from Italy, Spain, and the like but in recent years, Sherpas from the Makalu and Rolwaling have taken on the big peaks and are knocking them off in quick fashion.
Nationalities of climbers who have completed all 14 of the 8000 meter mountains.
- Italian – 7
- Spanish – 6
- Kazakhstani – 3
- Korean – 5
- Polish – 3
- Nepali – 2
- Australian – 1
- Austrian – 1
- Czech – 1
- Ecuadorian – 1
- Finish – 1
- German – 1
- Iranian – 1
- Slovenian/Italian – 1
- Japanese – 1
- Mexican – 1
- Portuguese – 1
- Slovak -1
- Swiss – 1
- American – 1
Funded by low climbing permit fees in Nepal along with guiding western clients, they have been able to summit multiple 8000ers each year when it used to take many years, if not decades, to accomplish this coveted mark in mountaineering. Reinhold Messner took 16 years, 1970-1986, to summit all 14 whereas Irian Azim Gheychisaz took nine years from 2008 to 2017.
Chhang Dawa Sherpa and Mingma Sherpa set the Sherpa standard when they summited all 14 and started the guiding company Seven Summits Treks aka 7S. Today 7S has emerged as one of the largest Nepali guide companies with close to 100 clients each season on Everest alone.
Dawa set the age record as the youngest climber to summit all 14. His last 8000er was Dhaulagiri in 2014 at age 32. He and his brother were born in the Makalu region, not the Khumbu, thus putting their region on the climbing map. Today many Sherpas on Everest are from Makalu and Rolwaling.
Well Earned Praise
Sincere congratulations to Mingma, John and Ngima Norbu Sherpa for summiting both K2 and Broad Peak with the rare double summit Also to Pakistani Ali Reza on topping out on Broad Peak twice this season and Tsering Pemba Sherpa and Mingma Nuru Sherpa for summiting K2 and Broad without supplemental oxygen – impressive.
Finally, I want to point out that Mingma Gyalje Sherpa did use supplemental oxygen on K2. I am very impressed with his decision as he is clearly capable of summiting without but choose to use Os given he was guiding clients.
Memories are Everything