Click for site home
The Blog on alanarnette.com
Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Aug 042017
 
Mingma Gyalje Sherpa on K2 in 2017

Mingma Gyalje Sherpa founder of Dreamers Destination continues his impressive 2017 with yet another summit of an 8000 meter mountain, Broad Peak. Icelander John Snorri Sigurjónsson also summited BP adding to his two 8000ers this year – K2 and Lhotse.

British-American Vanessa O’Brien who summited K2 with Mingma was not with them but apparently, as reported by Mingma, Fredrik Sträng went along to nab Broad Peak thus not wasting his trip to the Karakorum after not being able to summit K2.

Mingma posted on Facebook:

Finished my 11x8000m peak. Broad peak is my 10th 8000m without oxygen. All safely arrived back to camp3. Congratulation to all my team member. John Snorri became first Icelandic, Ali Reza made twice(on 27july and 4aug), Dawa Gyalje Sherpa, Tsering pemba sherpa completed 11x8000m, Mingma nuru sherpa, Ngima norbu sherpa( both k2 and broad peak without oxygen)
Liu yong zhong completed 11x8000m and Dong hongjuan completed her 10th 8000m.

Fedrick from Sweden also made it but he is not part of our expedition. Summit videos will be posted tomorrow. Thanks for following us.

This is the 31 year-old Mingma’s fourth 8000er summit in 2017: Dhaulagiri on 30 April, Makalu on 14 May, K2 on 29 July and Broad Peak on 5 August. He came very close on Nanga Parbat but said he believes he mistakenly stood on a sub summit and will have to go back. He has summited 11 of the 14 8000 meter mountains.

Mingma Gyalje Sherpa on K2 in 2017
Mingma Gyalje Sherpa on K2 in 2017

 

Sherpa Success on 8000ers

The world’s highest peaks used to be the domain of climbers from Italy, Spain, and the like but in recent years, Sherpas from the Makalu and Rolwaling have taken on the big peaks and are knocking them off in quick fashion.

Nationalities of climbers who have completed all 14 of the 8000 meter mountains.

  • Italian – 7
  • Spanish – 6
  • Kazakhstani – 3
  • Korean – 5
  • Polish – 3
  • Nepali – 2
  • Australian – 1
  • Austrian – 1
  • Czech – 1
  • Ecuadorian – 1
  • Finish – 1
  • German – 1
  • Iranian – 1
  • Slovenian/Italian – 1
  • Japanese –  1
  • Mexican – 1
  • Portuguese – 1
  • Slovak -1
  • Swiss – 1
  • American – 1

Funded by low climbing permit fees in Nepal along with guiding western clients, they have been able to summit multiple 8000ers each year when it used to take many years, if not decades, to accomplish this coveted mark in mountaineering. Reinhold Messner took 16 years, 1970-1986, to summit all 14 whereas Irian Azim Gheychisaz took nine years from 2008 to 2017.

Leveraging Success

Chhang Dawa Sherpa and Mingma Sherpa set the Sherpa standard when they summited all 14 and started the guiding company Seven Summits Treks aka 7S. Today 7S has emerged as one of the largest Nepali guide companies with close to 100 clients each season on Everest alone.

Dawa set the age record as the youngest climber to summit all 14. His last 8000er was Dhaulagiri in 2014 at age 32. He and his brother were born in the Makalu region, not the Khumbu, thus putting their region on the climbing map. Today many Sherpas on Everest are from Makalu and Rolwaling.

Well Earned Praise

Sincere congratulations to Mingma, John and Ngima Norbu Sherpa for summiting both K2 and Broad Peak with the rare double summit Also to Pakistani Ali Reza on topping out on Broad Peak twice this season and Tsering Pemba Sherpa and Mingma Nuru Sherpa for summiting K2 and Broad without supplemental oxygen – impressive.

Finally, I want to point out that Mingma Gyalje Sherpa did use supplemental oxygen on K2. I am very impressed with his decision as he is clearly capable of summiting without but choose to use Os given he was guiding clients.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

Comments

comments

  5 Responses to “Mingma Sherpa Continues 8000er Roll with Broad Peak”

  1. Great Show, Mingma Sherpa…Keep it up.

  2. Hi Alan

    In actuality, the list comprises 39 mountaineers not 40 (as mentioned). Romano Benet (born in Travisio, Italy, to Slovenian parents) has been added twice – both as an Italian and Slovenian-Italian. If counted as Italian, there is no Solvenian to have climbed all 14 8000ers. If considered Slovenian, the Italian tally reduces by one.

    Reinhold Messner [born in South Tyrol, Italy – an autonomous region since 1972 – to German parents] is counted as an Italian mountaineer. In his public interviews, Messner speaks fluent German (his first language), has often mentioned South Tyrol with his German heritage, taking his childhood inspiration from another Tyrolean Hermann Buhl (born in Innsbruck, Tyrol, Austria) and identifies himself as a citizen of South Tyrol.

    Should Messner be considered as an Italian, German, South Tyrolean or may be an Austrian-German???

  3. What does the list represent? I am not seeing the connection to the story text.

    • “The world’s highest peaks used to be the domain of climbers from Italy, Spain, and the like but in recent years, Sherpas from the Makalu and Rolwaling have taken the big peaks and are knocking them off in quick fashion.”

      The list is of countries with climbers who completed all 14 of 8000 meter mountains. I’ll add this line to make it clearer.

  4. And to think I pulled a muscle getting out of bed this morning.
    Congratulations to Mingma and the others. What an incredibly impressive performance.

 Leave a Reply

(required)

(required)