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May 242018
 

Raising Prayer Flags over Everest Base CampRaising Prayer Flags over Everest Base CampUPDATED: May 25, 2018 This is Alan Arnette’s Everest 2018 coverage and annual coverage and based on my own Everest and K2 summits and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest. A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who joins the Alzheimer’s Prevention Registry or makes a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s nonprofits.

 


HEADLINE: Season is Over 800+ Summits, 5 Deaths

See all the Everest 2018 posts here


Hillary Step 2018 by Casey Grom, Hillary Step has changed and not just covered with snow.

Latest News: 25 May 2018 (Everest time: GMT+5:45)

Current Headlines

  • With an unprecedented weather window, the Everest season is winding down I estimate a total of over 800 summits smashing the previous record set in 2013 of 667 from both sides by members and support climbers. The Nepal Ministry of Tourism reported on 16 August 2018 that a total of 563 people summited during the spring of 2018 made up of 302 High Altitude Workers (aka Sherpas) and 261 foreigners (aka members) using the standard Southeast Ridge route in Nepal. I estimate 239 summits on the Northeast Ridge in Tibet. Nepal issued 347 Everest climbing permits to foreigners, including 20 Nepalis, making the overall summit rate of 75% for members on the South side. There were 52 female summits on the Nepal side in 2018. The Nepal Government collected USD$5,172,408 in permit fees. They noted that the summiteers included 51 Indians, 49 Americans and 47 Chinese.

Previous Major Headlines

  • Hillary Step has changed and not just covered with snow.
  • Japanese climber Nobukazu Kuriki died descending from C3 in the night after radioing for help to his video crew at C2. Details
  • Franz P. Rassel became the first Paraguayan to summit Everest.
  • Gjeorgi Petkov, 63, Macedonia died from heart attack was with Tim Mosedale on Nepal side
  • Damai Sarki Sherpa died after falling into crevasse near C2, Nepal side, with Himalayan Ascent and Seven Summit Treks Details
  • Pasang Norbu Sherpa (41) died at 28,051’/8550m working for 7 Summits Club summit push from Tibet Details.
  • Alpenglow got all their Cho Our/Everest team on Everest summit with no issues
  • Matt Moniz and Willie Benegas had to slow down and stop because they were climbing too fast otherwise they wold miss the sunrise!!!!
  • Summit Oxygen problems reported by Nepal side teams in addition to North teams.
  • Carlos Soria Fontán has reportedly abandoned Dhaulagiri citing high winds.
  • Russian climber Rustem Amirov died from AMS after nearly summiting Lhotse
  • Rupert Jones-Warner summited from Nepal now moves to Tibet.
  • Sherpa dies on Nepal side, Lam Babu Sherpa from Kurima solukhambu from Seven Summits Treks with Ukraine team. Details
  • Alpenglow team turns back after failure of Summit Oxygen regulators – all safe details
  • Kami Rita Sherpa summited for a record 22nd time with a Seven Summit Treks team
  • Lhakpa Sherpa 9th summit from North Side. New World Record for women! Breaking her own record.
  • Sherpa, Lam Babu Sherpa reported missing above the South Col since 14 May
  • 51 of the 76 Liaison officers are actually at Everest Base Camp – Nepal – better than most years. source
  • Ropes fixed to summit on Tibet side
  • Mingma G Sherpa along with Chinese double amputee Mr Xia Boyu  summited
  • Steve Plain set the time record for climbing the 7 Summits at 117 days.
  • Rope fixing team made the summit from the Nepal side at 3:30 pm, on 13 May 2018.
  • Annapurna summit on 13 May
  • Manaslu expeditions cancels effort due to avalanche conditions
  • 2nd heli search and search team at his C2/C3 tents buy no signs of Shishapangma climber Bulgarian Boyan Petrov
  • Cho Oyu summits!
  • Team turns back 200m from Nuptse summit seeing poor snow conditions
  • Makalu Summit
  • Death on Dhaulagiri
  • Two Sherpas were hurt when a serac collapsed towards the top of the Khumbu Icefall.
  • 180 foreign permits issued for Tibet side
  • 346 for Everest including 20 Nepalis from the Nepal side

2018 Everest Deaths – 5

  • Damai Sarki Sherpa died after falling into crevasse near C2, Nepal side, with Himalayan Ascent and Seven Summit Treks Details
  • Pasang Norbu Sherpa (41) died at 28,051’/8550m working for 7 Summits Club summit push from Tibet Details.
  • Nobukazu Kuriki, 36, Japanese died descending from C3, Nepal side, in the night after radioing for help to his video crew at C2 Details
  • Lam Babu Sherpa from Kurima solukhambu working for Seven Summits Treks supporting Ukraine team on Nepal side. Details
  • Gjeorgi Petkov, 63, Macedonia from heart attack working for Tim Mosedale on Nepal side Details

2018 Lhotse Deaths – 1

Connect and Support

If you receive value from my annual Everest coverage, please consider a donation to one of these Alzheimer’s nonprofits, 100% for Alzheimer’s, none for me Click this link to understand my personal journey with Alzheimer’s disease
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South Col Route (map)

locations are for the majority of each team, individuals may be higher or lower

Everest only TEAMS (members/western guides)
346 members
EBC
C1
C2
C3
C4 S.Col
Summits (foreigners/Sherpas)
Fixed Line Progress X  X X X  X   8
Facebook for AC TwitterforAC  Adventure Consultants (8/3) e  10/16
Facebook for AAI  Alpine Ascents Int. e 10/9
Facebook for IMG Asian Trekking Uttarakhanda Police(12) e 12/14
Facebook for IMG Asian Trekking BSF (15) e 15/15
Facebook for IMG Asian Trekking Eco Everest (9) e 12/12
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI  Ascent Himalayas e  7/8
Alpine Sherpa Guide (2) e 2/2
Facebook for AAI Twitter for AAI  Benegas Brothers Matt Moniz e 2/1
Facebook for CTTS  CTTS – Mike Hamill(7/1) e  8/8
Facebook for IMG Himex (3/1) e  2/2
Facebook for IMG Himalayan Guides (Henry Todd) (8) e 8/8
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF  IMG Classic Team 1 (10?) e 10/15
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF  IMG Classic Team 3 (10?) e 5/7
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF  IMG Hybrid (5) e ?
Imagine Climb (12) e  7/6
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF  Jagged Globe (4/1) e  4/4
Facebook for MT Twitter for PF  Madison Mountaineering e  10/12
Facebook for MT Mountain Professionals (4/1) e 4/4
Satori Adventures (6) e 4/6
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF  Summit Climb (5/1) e ?/?
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Seven Summits Treks (7) Indian e  7/7
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Seven Summits Treks (20) Chinese e  9/9
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Seven Summits Treks (10) International e  11/12
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Tim Mosedale e  4/4
others (est) 65/59
SOUTH TOTAL (est) 229/247

Northeast Ridge Route (map)

locations are for the majority of each team, individuals may be higher or lower

TEAMS (members/western guides)
180 members
CBC
ABC
C1 N.Col
C2
C3
Summits (foreigners/Sherpas)
Fixed Line Progress X X X  X X+  10?
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Altitude Junkies (8/1) e
Facebook for AG Twitterfor AG  Alpenglow (9/2) e  5/5
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI  Adventure Peaks (5/1) e  5/5
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI 7 Summits Treks/Arnold Coster (12/1) e 6/8
Climbalaya(12) e  3/4
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF  Furtenbach Adventures (5/1) e  9/9
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF  Kobler & Partner e  3/3
Satori Adventures (6) e
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF  Summit Climb (12/1) e 5/4
Facebook for SC Transcend Adventures (36) e  18/22
Facebook for SC  7 Summits Club (20/7) e  26/33
others (est)  32/25
NORTH TOTAL (est)  111/128
LEGEND T/D=Trek/Driving to BC, K=Kathmandu, La=Lhasa, Lo=Lobuche, e=climb ended, x=last reported location, x+ =on summit bid, -x =descending h=high sleep point, t=touched not slept. Summit number=member/Sherpa. Locations estimated from public websites. Please refer to each expedition’s site for current information. Contact me to add/remove your team from my coverage.

Other Teams

Not providing enough updates to track or comment

Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF Dreamers Destination (11) 4 members/4 Sherpas summited
Himalayan Guides
Himalaya Expedition

I did similar coverage for the 2004,  2005,  2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 20122013201420152016 and 2017 seasons. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011 and have attempted Everest three other times – 2002, 2003, 2008 and Lhotse in 2015 and 2016. If you will forgive the self-promotion Outside Magazine posted an extensive interview with me and called me “one of the world’s most respected chronicler of Everest”

If you receive value from my annual Everest coverage, please consider a donation to one of these Alzheimer’s nonprofits, 100% for Alzheimer’s, none for me Click this link to understand my personal journey with Alzheimer’s diseasedonate to Alzheimers


Everest Weather
Base Camp Summit
not intended to replace professional forecasts or for critical decisions

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  2 Responses to “Everest 2018: May 25 Team Locations and Headlines”

  1.  

    did Tenji and Jon make the traverse after all?

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