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Everest 2018: Team Locations and Headlines

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Jan 142018
Everest 2018: Team Locations and Headlines

Alan Arnette’s Everest 2018 coverage and annual coverage is based on my own Everest and K2 summits and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest. A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who joins the Alzheimer’s Prevention Registry or makes a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s nonprofits.   HEADLINE: Climbers Moving Higher on Both Sides See all the Everest 2018 posts here Latest News: 23 April 2018 (Everest time: GMT+5:45) Current Headlines Many teams at C1 & continue reading

Apr 222018
Everest 2018: Stormy Future for Everest and the Other 8000ers?

All is well on Everest, except for the normal issues associated with acclimatizing. I’m seeing a lot of talk about the weather so this post looks at what they may expect across the Himalaya and whats happening on the other peaks. Ropes to C3! On the Nepal side, great news with the ropes now set all the way to C3. This is quite early. There is a lot of activity now with team after team climbing to Camps 1 and 2 in the Western Cwm. Adventure Consultants notes the wind is tough: Lydia, Brad, Robin and Mike D. had a continue reading

Apr 212018
Everest 2018: Weekend Update 21 April

For some Everest climbers, they left home a month ago, others are leaving today. But for all, they’re dreaming of summits in a just a few weeks. The season continues smoothly with little issues and good progress on both sides. The weather remains good. Ropes are being set on the Nepal side, soon on the Tibetan side and climbers are moving on their first rotation on both sides. The Big Picture About this time each year, climbers on both sides begin to move up the mountain to acclimatize their bodies for the summit push in about three weeks. On the continue reading

Apr 202018
Everest 2018: A Normal Day

All is well on both sides of Everest as we enter the weekend. The China Tibet Mountaineering Association announced that 150 foreigners have been given permits on the Tibet side. This compares to 336 foreign permits issued on the Nepal side according to the Nepal Ministry of Tourism. This is slightly down from last year. Fear of Flying Things are pretty normal at Everest but back in Kathmandu, a plane skidded off the runway at 10:30 pm on Thursday, shutting the airport down. This is the only international (and domestic) airport in Kathmandu so the early morning flights to Lhasa for continue reading

Apr 192018
Everest 2018: First Climbers into the Western Cwm

Right on schedule, the first clients are in the Western Cwm. The Sherpas have already been making trips there to establish the camps. While it is short in distance, the altitude makes it long in time. These are the distances and usual times from Everest Base Camp on the Nepal (south) side for a foreigner first time up. Sherpas times will be the lower of the range. Base Camp: 17,500’/5,334m C1: 19,500’/5,943m – 3-6 hours, 1.62 miles C2: 21,000’/6,400m – 2-3 hours, 1.74 miles More and more leaders are commenting on the quality of the route through the Khumbu Icefall continue reading

Apr 192018
Everest 2018: Interview with Matt Moniz - Extraordinary Youth

This interview with Matt Moniz is one of an ongoing series I do each season with Everest climbers. Not the famous, sponsored ones who get plenty of publicity but the regular people, who often have full-time jobs, full time families and climb for the love of the climb. Most climbers are already at base camp so this may be the last interview for 2018 but I welcome suggestions for anyone I should interview. I met Matt and his family years ago here in Colorado. I knew the moment that I shook his hand that he was “different” 🙂 Polite, mature, continue reading

Apr 182018
Everest 2018: A Big Year - Again

Looks like another big year on Everest, but not a record. Teams continue to arrive at the base camps but are also beginning to climb. Progress is swift on the Nepal side and about to take off on the Tibetan side. Nepal – Into the Icefall! EBC is buzzing with activity. Guides are running their clients through skills review. There is a training course set up just aside of camp that many teams will share. It usually includes some steep snow slopes, a couple of ladders (horizontal and vertical) and a rappel station. As I mentioned in an earlier post, continue reading

Apr 172018
Everest 2018: April 18, A Day to Remember

On April 18, 2014, at 6:35 am, a small section of an ice serac released onto the Khumbu Icefall. 16 Sherpas were killed in a moment as tons of ice fell, leaving the mountain workers with few options and nowhere to hide. Today, four years later 2018, there is no climbing on Mt. Everest. No Sherpas, no foreigners – everyone is in solemn unity remembering where they were that day, and who they lost. “The tears are right below the surface.” Russell Brice, Himex, told me a few years ago while standing on the trail that defines main street of continue reading

Apr 172018
Everest 2018: Into the Icefall

The #Everest2018 season continues in an orderly manner. Teams are at base camps on both sides adjusting to their new homes, and the thinner air. The first teams have entered the Icefall on the Nepal side. Soon the Tibet side teams will make the move to Intermediate and then Advanced Base Camp. Training at Base Camp It may seem strange to conduct training at Base Camp, and in many ways it is however better safe than run the risk of an accident. While most, with exceptions, Everest climbers have traveled on fixed ropes (Denali), used crampons (Rainer, Mont Blanc), used continue reading

Apr 162018
Everest 2018: Base Camp Progress and Pujas

The base camps are coming together on both sides as the teams continue to arrive. Climbers are doing some skills review while the Sherpas build the high camps. A few teams have already entered the Khumbu Icefall. It looks like clients will begin to climb to Camp 1 in a couple of days. So far, so good. Chinese Base Camp (CBC) On the Tibet side, base camp is usually called the Chinese Base Camp aka CBC. It is tightly run by a member of the Chinese Mountaineering Association, or the Chinese Tibet Mountaineering Association, CMA/CTMA respectively. There is a person continue reading