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Jul 022019
 
K2 from Concordia 2014 by Alan Arnette

With a few days of decent weather, teams made progress across the Karakorum. But the forecast calls for some high winds in the days ahead so it may become quiet later this week. The first Karakorum summit of this summer season was accomplished on Nanga Parbat.

K2 – Ropes to C2

Dawa Sherpa of Seven Summits Treks, the largest team in the Karakorum, as usual, said the rope team reached C2:

Just got an internet connection, have a look at SST – K2 expedition basecamp setup. All team members and Sherpas are fine, Rope fixing Team already opened route up to C1 and today on the way to C2. Almost 65 Climbers are attempting in K2, this is the largest group I ever saw ! Hope this we will have similar success rate like in past years. Gasherbrum 1 / 2 members are also fine and having rest at basecamp.

They are using their Everest model on K2 with heavy Sherpa support. Other teams will most likely draft off their efforts. I’m expecting record K2 summits this season if the weather holds. Most teams are using the traditional Abruzzi route but some may inspect the Česen as a less crowded alternative, however it is more susceptible to avalanches and with the heavy snow thus far, it might be too dangerous.

Mike Horn continues to take the lead on K2. They were the first to overnight at C1 and now are aiming for C2 or higher.

After a restful weekend in basecamp, it’s time for @fredroux72 and I to make our way up to camp 2 (6700m) and even higher if we’re feeling it! The weather seems to be in our favor, and we’re feeling strong. It should take us about 10 hours to climb from basecamp to camp 2 – wish us luck and we’ll keep you posted

K2 routes

K2 Routes: Abruzzi and Česen

Adrian Ballinger and his team arrived at K2 base Camp after a couple of “sick days” on the trek in. Madison Mountaineering is being patient as usual:

We are at base camp.  We had a wonderful trek in over a week.  And arrived in base camp three days ago.  We’re getting base camp set up now and almost have it finally dailed in.  It’s nice to be here and get settled and get ready for our first rotation which is probably five or six days off.  Everyone’s doing well and we are excited to be here enjoying base camp.

GI &II – Progress

Matthew Randall & Matt Gorbett are attempting to climb and ski Gasherbrum I and II without oxygen. They intend to raise $20,000 for the Special Forces Foundation. They report in with nice progress:

After the last post, Matt made his way partially up to Camp 2, deposited a cache of gear at 20,300′, before returning to Camp 1. He slept another night there, and then returned to BC the following day. In the next day or so, Matt is planning on climbing back up to Camp 1, sleeping there, continuing up to Camp 2, sleeping there, and depending on how he feels, possibly climbing higher and making a Camp 3. He’s still feeling great, eating well and is ready for his next push up the mountain! .

Broad Peak – Established C2

Kobler and Parter give a nice update written by Billi Bierling:

We have been in Pakistan for nearly three weeks and after the struggle to get all our gear to base camp and set it up nicely to make our lives as comfortable as possible, there has been quite a lot of action on the mountain over the past few days. On Thursday, 27 June, Dawa and Karma Sherpa from our team as well as two Sherpa and one Pakistani high-altitude porter from two other teams opened to route to C2, reaching 6100m; and it was surprise how high they reached.

Furtenbach Adventures hints at an early summit:

Back at basecamp from first rotation and rope fixing together with an other team up to camp 2 on Broad Peak. Conditions are good now but it looks like more snow moving in end of the week. Let’s see, maybe there is a slight chance to give it a quick try…

Nanga Parbat – Summit!!

Mountain.ru reports a summit on Nanga Parbat by French climber Boris Langenstein on Monday, July 1. They report the  
“Freeride in the death zone,” Vitaly Lazo, Anton Pugovkin and Cala Clementi are planning to reach the summit tomorrow morning. They are planning to ski from the summit.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

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