Everest 2022: Summit Wave 3 Recap

The third wave of Everest summiters has come and gone, with around 22 members supported by 37 Sherpas reaching the top. Thus far, there have been about 202 summits on the Nepal side and 50 on the Tibet side, for 252 total this Spring season. Many more people are climbing now, aiming for Saturday morning, May 14.

There were 316 permits issued on the Nepal side, so estimating that 30% drop out for various reasons and overall for members, the success rate hovers around 80%; we can expect another 175 members supported by a 1:1.5 Sherpa ratio leaving about 250 more people to summit. Thus 240 of the 361 foreigners who received a permit will summit, or 75%, which is about normal for these days.

Thankfully, no deaths or rescues were reported once again, but we may still learn of difficulties. Overall, the weather was ideal, with low winds and temperatures around 0F/-20C. Tonight should be the same.

I was expecting larger crowds for the 13th, but it appears many teams are taking it slowly given the good weather and staying at Camp 2 to let the mountain clear out a bit. 

It’s a shame that some of the summiters do not mention the name of their logistics company, guide, and even worse the Sherpas who helped them to the top. It takes a team, and almost no one climbs Everest alone, unsupported, and solo these days. Perhaps the only practical way to be as self-supported as possible is demonstrated by German David Göttler, who is not using supplemental oxygen and carries all of his gear – tents, sleeping bags, food, fuel, stove, etc. He appears to be using the ladders installed by the Icefall Doctors in the Khumbu Icefall and the Western Cwm and the fixed ropes.

David Goettler on the fixed ropes on the Lhotse Face

Summits, Friday, May 13, 2022

Climbalaya noted 3 members with six Sherpas; a 1:2 support ratio summited: Gerhard Osterbauer, Emil Neszmelyi, Nima Doma Sherpa, Richard Ramberg, Ngima Tshering Sherpa, Palden Sherpa, Pema Sherpa, Lakpa Temba Sherpa, and Ngawang Rapgay Sherpa.

Furtenbach Adventures beamed about their summits of 17 members supported by a whopping 27(!) Sherpas. They also noted their members ‘pre-acclimatized’ at home and then summited Mera Peak, 6,476 meters, before making the summit attempt. They didn’t make any acclimatization rotations and will go through the Icefall twice – once up and again after the summit. Graham Keene at 68, was on the team and became the oldest Brit to summit, passing the legend Sir Ranulf Fiennes. The members summited 16 days after leaving home. Sadly, no names, not even the Sherpas, were made public.

Navin Trital, Managing Director at Expedition Himalaya, reported that American David Ashley, 48, supported by Phurba Sonam Sherpa and Karma Gyalzen Sherpa, summited at 8:00 am on Friday May 13, 2022. Ashley is an organ donor and climbed to honor that cause.

IMG had two more summits: Vojtech Pesek and Fura Gyalzen Sherpa 


Many Everest summiters try to tag Lhotse’s summit after their E summits, and we see several successes this morning,

Climbing The Seven Summits

LHOTSE SUMMITS! Mark, Pega, Margaret and Sonam Phinjo have all just summited Lhotse in perfect weather and are now descending to C2 where they will spend the night. These four all summited Everest and Lhotse in 24hrs, and absolutely phenomenal feat!! Mark and Margaret are part of our 40 day Hypoxico Speed Ascent team and absolutely cruised Everest and Lhotse this season. Clayton, climbing on our even quicker 30 day Hypoxico Speed Ascent program, flew to the summit of Everest yesterday and will be safely back at EBC in a few hours. That’s 100% success for our Hypoxico Speed Ascent Team!!! Congrats to these strong and tenacious climbers!

Ascent Himalayas:

Our team successfully made it to the summit of Mt Lhotse(8516m) on 13th May 2022.
Ronald Quintero(Honduras) successfully made to the summit of Mt lhotse at approx 07:15 am and became the first person from his country to summit Mt Lhotse(8516m) accompanied by Pasang Tenzing Sherpa(Rolwaling) & Sange Sherpa(Simigaun).He is also the first Honduran to Summit 2 8000m in a row.Everest Summit on 12th May 2022 & Lhotse Summit on 13th May 2022.
Erlend Ness & James Miller will also descend soon for camp 2 together with the Sherpa team.
Expect more summit attempts tonight, Friday, May 13, 2022.

Previous Summit Recaps

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