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Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
May 162022
 

UPDATE: 30 + Summits Tuesday Morning, May 17, 2022

7 Summits Club had eight members with two guides supported by an enormous 20 Sherpas for a member-to-support ratio of 1:2.75!

  1. Alexander Brychkin
  2. Natalia Bykovskaya
  3. Veronika Zaripova
  4. Kovalenko Lilia
  5. Kuprichenkov Fedor
  6. Manevich Boris
  7. Motorkin Sergey
  8. Rumyantseva Olg

Guides:

  1. Alexander Abramov
  2. Artem Rostovtsev

Supported by:

  1.  Lakpa Gelu Sherpa
  2.  Lakpa Sherpa
  3.  Lakpa Ongjuk Sherpa
  4.  Ngima Dorchi Sherpa
  5.  Dawa Sherpa
  6.  Ngima Nurbu Sherpa
  7.  Dawa Temba Sherpa- LHOTSE SHERPA
  8.  Rinjin Wongel Sherpa
  9.  Ngima Thindu Sherpa
  10.  Nima Dindu Sherpa
  11.  Nima Ungdi Sherpa
  12.  Ngima Ongda Sherpa
  13.  Dawa Chhiring Sherpa
  14.  Lakpa Gelu Sherpa
  15.  Mingdukpa Sherpa
  16.  Milan Sherpa
  17.  Lakpa Nurbu Sherpa
  18.  Ngima Ongdi Sherpa
  19.  Rinjen Sherpa
  20.  Pemba Nurbu Sherpa

Reporting in later than most, the Elite expeditions team got a 31 on the summit of Everest: 12 members with 19 Sherpas on May 15. Some went on to link Lhotse.

Everest Lhotse Summiteers:
1. Juan Diego Martinez🇲🇽
2. Silvia Azdreeva 🇧🇬
3. Remy Kloos 🇿🇦

Everest Summiteers:
1. Alex Uddin 🇬🇧
2. David Vartan Brock 🇬🇧
3. David Klint 🇸🇪
4. Dr Badr Alshibani 🇸🇦
5. Gabriel Tarso 🇧🇷
6. Mario Fernando Villagran 🇪🇨
7. Marta Misztal 🇵🇱
8. Sabrina Filzmoser 🇦🇹
9. Steve Davis 🇬🇧

Sherpa Team

Everest Lhotse:
1. @nimsdai (without O2)🇳🇵
2. Lakpa Dendi Sherpa 🇳🇵
3. Dawa Chettar Sherpa 🇳🇵
4. Tenji Sherpa 🇳🇵
5. Pasang Tendi Sherpa 🇳🇵

Everest:
1. @mingma_david_sherpa 🇳🇵
2. Yukta Gurung 🇳🇵
3. Kitemba Sherpa 🇳🇵
4. Pasang Norbu Sherpa🇳🇵
5. Pam Dorje Sherpa 🇳🇵
6. Pasang Chiri Sherpa 🇳🇵
7. Phur Lakpa Sherpa 🇳🇵
8. Mingmar Sherpa 🇳🇵
9. Pemba Dorje Sherpa 🇳🇵
10. Karma Gelje Sherpa 🇳🇵
11. @sherpapemchhiri🇳🇵
12. Mitra Bahadur Tamang 🇳🇵
13. Dorje Sherpa 🇳🇵
14. Mingma Gyabu Sherpa 🇳🇵
15. Mingma Sherpa 🇳🇵


Wave Seven!, Yes, Tuesday will perhaps see wave seven depending on the winds.  At least 27 more summits Monday Morning, May 16, 2022, bringing the total on both sides to 396 on the Neal side and another 50 on the Tibet side. More going for Tuesday, depending on the winds. They are forecasted to gust to 45mph/70 kph on Monday night. By my count, there are around 40 to 60 people left to summit.

 Alpine Ascents Int. is at the South Col where they are spending the night and will target May 18. And Madison Mountaineering seems pleased to hold out at Camp2 for a few more days.

Lhotse in true Style

There have been many Lhotse summits, but most have come directly from Everest via the South Col and not from Base Camp. One notable exception is Hungarian Szilárd Suhajda, who climbed independently without O’s or sherpa support and carried all his own gear. He also has summits of K2 and Broad Peak.

No Alternative to the Icefall

On another note, French alpinist Marc Batard got health issues while trying to prove his alternative route to the Khumbu Icefall along Nuptse’s flanks and eventually called the whole thing off.

Your Life or use Oxygen?

There were several case studies on the use of supplemental oxygen and style. I’ve written ad nauseam about why oxygen keeps you warmer and alive and that only 3% of Everest climbers shun it.  But it’s a point of style and pride for those who don’t want to use it. However, when they face death, they have a choice, use it, turn around, or push to their potential death.
 
Carla Perez on Makalu began to feel the usual symptoms of a no Os climb with cold extremities, shivering, and generally not well. SHe had a choice. In her own words:

And well back from my last rotation that became the last rotation + summit attempt, because apparently May 12 was a good day to try to go to the summit.

I spent 8 days through the high altitudes moving between field and field and resting on C1, almost transformed into Yeti. I arrived very close to the top but the wind and cold went on so much before dawn, that I moved while continuing to shiver from the cold and with numb hands and feet, I saw no choice but to turn around 200 meters from the summit to avoid consequences, that is, around 8250 meters. Those who tried “without O2” put oxygen and there were still people with frostbite, my team that was going that day proposed me to do the same but it did not motivate me, I remained faithful to my plan to try without the help of O2. Carla said to myself: Why would you propose these challenges to yourself, if given the moment, you look for it easily and guaranteed? So I turned around, just like two Italian friends who were without a mask. Now days off, cure the crumbs and plan one more attempt😉😊🤫🤓🙌🏼… #liveyouradventure @eddiebauer #womenarenotsmallmen

And my friend Wilco van Rooijen on Kangchengunga faced a similar dilemma  

Where to start the story? So much has happened. Cas stayed behind which made it mentally hard. Only 1 climber summited in 20 hours. Using oxygen, it takes 12 hours. But me and extra oxygen? Do I have a choice? Do I stick to my principles, or do I adapt to the new situation?
 
Then Lolo invited me to come along with him and his Sherpa. He is using extra oxygen, so I do too. The first time in my life! I have 2 bottles of oxygen, but I don’t have a Sherpa to assist me in carrying them so the extra 6 kgs are on my back. If the weather stays, I have a chance. But then, at 8,100 meters Lolo’s Sherpa encounters a problem: pain in his feet due to his boots. Lolo decides to go back with him.
Decision time again… Do I continue? Do I have enough oxygen? It’s more than 500 meters, long way up and back down again. What if my oxygen runs out? Hallucinations, black fingers? Do I really want to be dependent on this?
I see the row of 18 climbers – all with extra oxygen and Sherpas to help carry. No, this is not our way and what we believe. No summit is worth it. I quit!
So, I returned with Lolo and his brave Sherpa. Supplementary oxygen was once but never again. I don’t like my life depending on a technical system.
It took an adventure to realize how important it is to keep faith in your beliefs instead of going for a ‘quick’ success. And that’s why I love the mountains, the lessons you learn time and time again!
And Billi Bierling on Dhaulagiri also climbing without Os, carrying her own gear found herself in trouble as she told excellent mountaineering journalist Stefan Nestler:
“It was very strenuous because I was climbing without bottled oxygen and carried my own gear in my backpack. The Northeast Ridge is just mercilessly steep.” She arrived hours later than her team to Camp 3. “Two hours was not enough time for me to recover. If I had attempted the summit, I might have made it to the top, but might have gotten into trouble on the descent. I didn’t want to put anyone through that. I was aware that the summit was only half the way. The mountain is out of my league, but I’m very grateful to have come this far under the difficult conditions.”
Stefan sums it up nicely, “Some high-altitude climbers could take a leaf out of that kind of honesty and humility.”

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything


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