Everest 2022: Summit Wave 9 – Recap

Lhotse Plume

Looks like Madison Mountaineering summited Everest around 8:00 am Friday morning, May 20, 2022, right on their schedule. No word yet on names or numbers but there were around 15 total people on the team, including support. This makes Garrett’s 12th Everest summit, and the distinction of guiding more people to the summit of Everest, and  I think K2, than any other Western (not Sherpa) guide. They said they were the only team making a summit push today.

The list of summiters:

  1. Garrett Madison 
  2. Terray Sylvester 
  3. Todd Ammerman 
  4. Carter Beck 
  5. Dwight Crow   
  6. Saskia Jacobson 
  7. Robert “Josh” Garrison 
  8. Cameron Kenny 
  9. Chase Mariam 
  10. Sara Safari 
  11. Javier “Cacho” Beiza 
  12. Robert Smith
  13. Roi Negri 

Supported by

  1. Aang Phurba Sherpa 
  2. Siddi Bhadur Tamang 
  3. Kam Dorchi Sherpa 
  4. Ming Dorchi Sherpa 
  5. Rinji Sherpa 
  6. Sher Thapa Magar 
  7. Pasang Bhote 
  8. Temba Sherpa 
  9. Chhiring Bhote 
  10. Sangge Sherpa 
  11. Lakpa Sherpa 
  12. Pemba Chhiri Sherpa 
  13. Aang Kami Lama 
  14. Mingma Sherpa 
  15. Dhana Bahadur Tamang 
  16. Dawa Sherpa 
  17. Chhetter Sherpa Nepal

News from Makalu. It looks like Jon Gupta’s friends team summited the big peak adding to his success on Kanchenjunga: These are the reported summiters: Jon Gupta, Adam S. Booth, Lakpa Sherpa (2nd Ascent), Tenjin Sherpa, Jackson Groves, and Tashi Sherpa.

I also got an update from French climber Emma Clair who summited Everest on May 12 with Thamserku: Jangbu Sherpa, Lakpa Dendi Sherpa, Nicolas Boily (Canada), Dawa Sherpa, Omnika Dangol (Nepal) with two Sherpas not named and Heikki Karinen (Finland) with two 2 Sherpas, also not named.

Another summit sucess just now being reported came from Dream Himalaya Everest: 

Summit Date – 15th May, 8.15am
1. Mr. Olivier Thomas – France
2. Kevin Fare Brother – Australia
3. Dawa Sambu Sherpa Lama – Nepal
4. Tendi Sherpa – Nepal
5. Furi Sherpa – Nepal
Summit 16th May
1. Anvita – India
2. Lakpa Sherpa – Nepal
3. Jangbu Sherpa
Believe it or not, three are still teams on Makalu, and a couple are left for Everest, but with Maddison’s summit, the season is virtually over.
I’ll be publishing my annual season summary in a few days. I estimate 525 Nepal summits by 203 members supported by 323 Sherpas. 50 Summits on the Tibet side. You can see my estimated summit totals by team on the Tracking Table

Well, for the first time since May 11, the summit of Everest was quiet. At least, I think it was. No one reported in this morning, May 19, for Wave 9, but as always, someone could have lurked up there. The weather continues to be so good that I think down suits are optional this year. I probably should not joke, as we just had someone haul a keyboard and play on the summit. Yes, Everest fans, it’s come to this.

Base Camp is clearing out, with only a few remaining teams left.

Madison Mountaineering is on the move as I make this post:

Good morning from C4! Having breakfast now, inst oatmeal then dehy eggs, yum! But hardly any wind!..everyone doing well at the moment:) we’re the only team here! Resting up to probably head up tonight around 1:00am.

But Tim Mosedale calculated that retreat was the better part of valor and surrendered his Nuptse attempt after icy conditions had frozen the rope into the mountainside.

There is talk about small teams going as late as May 25, so I reached out to Michael Fagin of Everest Weather and Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solutions. Both agreed the Jetstream is still missing in action but warned things might get dicey around the 23rd Fagin added:

“Starting to see some summit wind increases from May 23 to May 25. Maybe max summit gusts up to 35 mph. So no jet yet over Everest but some models suggesting some increases. I would be concerned as the jet stream has not been over Everest this season yet and some models suggesting it gets close in the May 23 to May 25 timeline. Important to track any changes.”

Stay tuned.

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