Everest 2022: Summit Wave 12 – Recap

The big news is not from Everest but on Makalu where Norweigan Kristin Harila along with her Sherpa support got her sixth 8000er in just 29-days, setting a new record. There were 20 summits on Everest, perhaps the last of this season as the Icefall Doctors will begin removing the ladders on Sunday, May 29, 2022. EverestER has already left base camp.

Number 6 for Kristin, Dawa Ongiu and Pasdawa

Kristin Harila is trying to set a record for summiting all 14 of the 8000-meter peaks in the fastest time. Her outfitter, 8K Expeditions Sherpas, Dawa Ongju Sherpa, and Pasdawa Sherpa, have been with her on all six thus they share the same record.

Pemba of 8K tells me they will ask for an entry exception to climb Shishapangma in China. And they will climb Cho Oyu from Nepal. Thus far this 2022 season, she has summited Kanchenjunga on May 14, Dhaulagiri on May 8, Annapurna I on April 28,  Everest/Lhotse on May 22, and today, 27th May Friday at 10:40 A.M they got Makalu. They leave for Pakistan on June 9.

Also on the 8K team was Nepali female climber, Purnima Shrestha, who, according to 8K Expeditions, and not independently verified, is the fastest Nepali to complete all has now summited all seven 8000ers in Nepal, not including Cho Oyu which is usually climbed from Tibet.

Both Pioneer Adventure and Imagine Nepal are still on Makalu.

Everest Over?

I believe the final team summited and is headed back down, with a short stop at Lhotse, before the ladders are removed. Usually, if climbers need an extra day, the Docs accommodate them. 

Qatari royal family member Sheikha Asma Al Thani, 31, was guided to the summit by a massive team of 20 people Friday morning.  The team will try to link Lhoste Saturday night from the South Col. She had previously reached the tops of Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Kanchenjunga, and Everest. Elite expeditions listed the names:

1. Asma AlThani
2. Axel
3. Brodie hood
4. Deeya Pun 
5. Bimal purja
6. Tejan gurung
7. Nimsdai
8. Mingma tenzi sherpa
9. Karma g sherpa
10. Suma gurung
11. Jambiyang
12. Mingmar sherpa
13. Lakpa dendi sherpa
14. Pasang chairing
15. Lakpa tenji sherpa
16. Phurkitar sherpa
17. Lakpa dorchi sherpa
18. Bikash gurung
19. Ngatashi sherpa
20. Yukta Gurung 

Logistical Magic

This season will raise many questions in the mountaineering world about the extensive use of helicopters to ferry climbers in between base camps, or even mini-vacations in Kathmandu, while Sherpas tirelessly break trails while fixing summit ropes along with stocking high camps with food, and fuel, tents, and oxygen.
This style is fairly novel for the ‘other’ 8000ers, but strong Sherpa support is the standard on Everest. In 2022, there was a support-to-client ratio of 1:1.66 – the highest ever on Everest. My early estimate for Everest summits is 240 clients supported by 399 Sherpas for 640 summits. Add in the 50 from Tibet, 690 is on par with 2016/17. I have a very rough estimate of 200 total people on the other Nepal 8000ers.
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