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May 282022
 
Raising Prayer Flags over Everest Base CampRaising Prayer Flags over Everest Base Camp

LATEST HEADLINE May 28, 2022

2022 SEASON OVER


Welcome to the 2022 edition of Alan Arnette’s annual coverage of the Everest climbing season. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge and reward of climbing Everest. It’s based on my three Everest attempts and my 2011 summit, plus my climbing experiences of a K2 summit in 2014, Manaslu in 2013, and 30+ more peaks around the world. My reporting uses my own research, sources, and public information.

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You can listen to #everest2022 podcasts on SpotifyApple Podcast, Google Podcasts, Pocket Casts, RadioPublic, Anchor, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast platform.

Click for the complete Everest 2022 coverage


Current Headlines

  • The Icefall Doctors will stop managing the route on May 29, according to the SPCC.
  • I estimate 639 Nepal summits by 240 members supported by 399 Sherpas.
  • 73% summit success for the 325 permitted members.
  • 50 Summits on the Tibet side
  • 3 Everest deaths: 2 Sherpas, 1 Member
  • Rough estimate of over 200 summits on the other Nepal 8000ers
  • 1 Lhotse Sherpa death
  • 1 Makalu member death
  • 1 Kangchenjunga death

Previous Headlines

  • Another team headed up for Sunday morning, May 22
  • Another 20 summited on Saturday. Now it one team at a time. No rush.
  • 30 more summits on Friday Morning, May 20
  • A handful of summits on a very late, 11:00 am, Wednesday morning
  • 454 Nepal side summits through May 18
  • Summit winds under 30mph/50kph through May 22, then sharply increasing
  • 30 + Summits Tuesday Morning, May 17, 2022
  • Around 40 to 60 people left to summit
  • Winds forecasted to gust to 45mph/70 kph on Monday night
  • Wave 7 is Underway for Tuesday, May 17; wind dependent
  • 396 Nepal-side summits through May 16 with a 1:1.5 Sherpa ratio
  • Another 35-50 summits Sunday Morning
  • Kenton Cool just got his 16th Everest summit breaking Dave Hahn’s long-standing 15. A non-Sherpa record.
  • Multiple Lhotse Summits
  • Pioneer Adventures, Everest May 12: Dipak Mahat got AMS while at C2, died in Kathmandu
  • Full Circle Everest, the first all-black team, put eight members on top with eight Sherpas.
  • Lucy Westlake,18, who set an American female record
  • Ropes to Lhotse Summit
  • First Member Summit on May 9th with 14summit.com
  • Typhoon, ASANI looks to be NO THREAT to Everest
  • A Russian with Seven Summits Club  has died at C1 after getting sick at C2 on Everest
  • 11 Sherpas led by Kami Rita, with his 26th, got the fixed ropes to the summit earlier than expected.
  • Pioneer Adventures, Kangchenjunga May 6: Narayan Iyer 51-year-old Indian, dies from “exhaustion”
  • 26 summit Kanchenjunga
  • Nepal Rope Team leaving Thursday, May 6 for C4 to fix summit ropes. Might be in by May 10.
  • On May 4, 2022, 13 Chinese installed a weather station at 8800 meters on the Tibet side
  • 50 Chinese summits this spring
  • April 30, 2022, 31 Chinese summited on the Tibet side of Everest.
  • On April 29, 2022 six to eight Tibetan rope fixers summited with the fixed rope to the summit
  • Fixed ropes to the South Col, to the summit by May 10
  • Rotations underway to C2, with tags to 7000m on Lhotse Face
  • Low drama, good weather on Everest thus far
  • 8000er summits stalled due to weather
  • Internet is spotty from EBC
  • EverestER report treating 157 patients for the usual: upper respiratory complaints and high altitude cough.
  • Icefall is reported as “fast and easy”
  • First climbers are already at Camps 1 and 2.
  • Everest has 67 female climbers. The United States represents the largest country on Everest this year with 63 climbers, a spot recently ceded to India and China which only have 22 and 10 climbers, respectively. The UK comes in at 33, with Canada at 17 and Australia at 10 thus far. Russia has 16 climbers and Ukraine has 1, on Everest this season.
  • Carlos Sori, 83, Sito Carcavilla, and the six Sherpas on Dhaulagiri retreat to BC due to the weather. They will try again.
  • Heavy snowfall delays progress on Annapurna.
  • Many teams will not climb today, April 18, 2022, as eight years ago to the day, at 6:35 am, a small section of an ice serac released onto the Khumbu Icefall. 16 Sherpas were killed in a moment as tons of ice fell, leaving the mountain workers with few options and nowhere to hide. Today is a day to remember. Om mani Padme hung.
  • Multiple teams have arrived at EBC
  • IMG Sherpa, Nima Tenji Sherpa, has died in the Khumbu Icefall from unknown reasons, no fall, avalanche or known illness.
  • Greek climber Antonis Sykaris is reported to have died on April 11 from “exhaustion” after summiting. He was near C3
  • 22 Summits on Dhaulagiri by Imagine Nepal
  • IMG’s Sherpa Fura’s reports: “The Icefall is in good shape and ‘easy’.”
  • Icefall Doctors have the route to Camp 2 with only 4 ladders. (previous reports said 12)
  • Many weather delays flying to Lukla
  • Look for perhaps 100 fewer, down from last year’s 408, foreign climbers on the Nepal side for 2022 due to war, and COVID travel restrictions.
  • Icefall Doctors are fixing the route to C2
  • Icefall Doctors will arrive soon at Base Camp to fix the route to Camp 2
  • Tibet has closed again to foreign climbers for the third straight year
  • The regular commercial teams like IMG have already claimed their base campsite for 2022

Deaths/Missing – 6 Total

  1. Pioneer Adventures, Everest May 12: Dipak Mahat got AMS while at C2, died in Kathmandu
  2. Seven Summits Treks, Lhotse South Face May 9: Khudam Bir Tamang, a member of Hong Sung-Taek died from an avalanche.
  3. Seven Summits Club, Everest May 8: Pavel Kostrikin died at Camp 1 after getting sick at C2 on Everest from AMS
  4. Pioneer Adventures, Kangchenjunga May 6: Narayan Iyer 51-year-old Indian, dies from “exhaustion”
  5. Seven Summits Treks, Dhaulagiri, April 11: Greek climber Antonis Sykaris is reported to have died near C3 from “exhaustion” after summiting.
  6. IMG, Everest, April 14: Nima Tenji Sherpa died in the Khumbu Icefall from unknown reasons, no fall, avalanche, or known illness. He was carrying loads to Camp 1.

Connect and Support


The Himalayan Database Needs Your Help

If you climbed this spring 2022 season and hadn’t already registered with the HDB, please use this QR code to register so your climb can be counted.


South Col Route (map)

locations are for the majority of each team, and individuals may be higher or lower

W = ready for the summit push, waiting for a weather window.

S+ = Summit Push Underway

Everest only TEAMS
To Date: 276 members,40 western guides,
300+ HAW (high altitude workers aka Sherpas)
EBC
C1
C2
C3
C4 S.Col
Summits (foreigners/Sherpas)
Fixed Line Progress XXXXXX (11)
Facebook for AAI Alpine Ascents Int. 5+/1+e3/3
Facebook for AJ AJ TwitterAltitude Junkiese2?/2?
Facebook for AP Twitter for AP AP IGAdventure Peaks: 6/1e4/6
Facebook for IMGAsian Trekking:25/0e6/17
Facebook for MTClimbing the Seven Summitse12/20
Facebook for FCE Full Circle Everest: 11/0e7/8
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF Furtenbach Adventures: 15/4e17/27
Facebook for Nims Twitter for PF Elite Expeditions: 12/0?16/38
Facebook for IMG IMG: 20+/5+e9/13
Facebook for IMGImagine Nepale11/16
Facebook for MT Twitter for PFMadison Mountaineering: 9+/3+e13/17
Facebook for SCMountain Professionalse
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Summit Climb: 14/2e10/10
Facebook for SC Twitter for PFSeven Summits Treks: 50e25/25
Facebook for SC 7 Summits Club: 17/4e10/22
Facebook for 8K 8K Expeditions on IG8K Expeditions: 25/0e15/22
Facebook for IMG14 Peakse5/10
others (est)75/135
9SOUTH TOTAL (est)240/399

Northeast Ridge Route (map)

locations are for the majority of each team; individuals may be higher or lower

TEAMS
CBC
ABC
C1 N.Col
C2
C3
Summits (members/support)
Fixed Line ProgressXXXXXX
Tibetan Rope fixers0/6
Chinese Commercial11/20
Chinese Scientific5/8
NORTH TOTAL50
CHINA CLOSED TIBET TO FOREIGNERS

 FOR SPRING 2022 CLIMBING
LEGEND T/D=Trek/Driving to BC, K=Kathmandu, La=Lhasa, Lo=Lobuche, e=climb ended, x=last reported location, x+ =on summit bid, -x =descending h=high sleep point, t=touched not slept. Summit number=member/Sherpa. Locations are estimated from public websites. Please refer to each expedition’s site for current information. Contact me to add/remove your team from my coverage.

Other Teams

Not providing enough updates to track or comment

TEAMS
Facebook for 14s Twitter for 14s14summit: Summits 1/1
Alpine Sherpa Guide 
Climbalaya: 3/6 Summits
Himalaya Expeditions
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI Ascent Himalayas: 3/3 Summits
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PFDreamers Destination: 4 Summits
Everest Quest
Facebook for SCExpedition Himalaya: 1/2 Summits
Himalayan Guides: 4/4 Summits
Facebook for IMGHimex
Himalaya Expedition
Himalaya Ascent
Himalayan Traverse
Kaitu Expedition
Myrmidon Expeditions
Glacier Himalaya
Peak Promotion:
Pioneer Adventure: 1/1 Summit
Rolwaling
Facebook for SCSatori Adventures: 7/10 Summits
Summit Nepal Treks
Facebook for ThamThamserku Trekking: 1/1 Summit

I did similar coverage for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018 and 2019 seasons. In 2020, I did a fictitious Virtual Everest series that’s available as an e-Book. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011, and have attempted Everest three other times –2002, 2003, 2008, and Lhotse in 2015 and 2016.

If you will forgive the self-promotion, Outside Magazine posted an extensive interview with me and called me “one of the world’s most respected chroniclers of Everest”

I do this coverage for one reason only, raising awareness and funds to find a way to slow, stop or prevent Alzheimer’s Disease. If you visit often and appreciate this site, please consider a donation to an Alzheimer’s nonprofit. 100% goes to them, nothing ever to me. Click this link to understand my personal journey with AD that took Ida Arnette in 2009.
donate to Alzheimers


Everest Weather
Base CampSummit
not intended to replace professional forecasts or for critical decisions

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Comments on/from Facebook

  5 Responses to “Everest 2022: Team Locations and Headlines”

  1.  

    Hi Alan. What do you make of this post of Climbalaya claiming that there are two teams on the North side and that ropes are fixed till 8300m ????
    https://www.instagram.com/p/CcnGfkHpgBA/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

  2.  

    Hi Alan, I think I remember you doing a podcast on the Full Circle team. Is this team included in your stats this year? I looked for recent coverage on the google and have not seen anything recent from this team. Thank you!