Alpamayo 2012: Final Report

Alpamayo Summit View - East
Alpamayo Summit View – East

What a climb! Standing on the summit of Peru’s Alpamayo was one of the highlights of my climbing career. No, it was not the highest, most famous or deadly but it was technically challenging, physical sustaining and incredibly rewarding.

It was fun, simply fun …

In my normal manner for all my climbs I have added a few pages to my site to document the expedition:

I think what made this climb so special was the fact that once I saw the Southwest face of Alpamayo in person, my jaw dropped. It was high and steep in person. For a moment, I didn’t know if I had what it took to climb it. This was the type of face, young kids did, not 55 year-olds! But I did.

The climb to the Col Camp at 18,000′ had been fun and my training had paid off but still, 1500 feet of non-stop technical ice climbing to 19,500′ was another level. Each step up the Face required total, uncompromised concentration. I focused on technique to the exclusion of any other thought. When I did look back where I just climbed, my stomach fluttered.

The feeling on the summit was one of the reasons I climb. At the end of the summit video posted on the trip report you will hear an unfiltered reaction.

This trip epitomized that “Memories are Everything”.  You can read the trip report and see more pictures and videos at Alpamayo 2012 Trip Report

Climb On!
Memories are Everything

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10 thoughts on “Alpamayo 2012: Final Report

  1. Hi Alan- We also ended up skipping Quitaraju. After returning to base camp I spoke to two guys who climbed the face. They said that crossing all the holes at the bottom was not too bad, but they had to leave a whole lot of stakes in the face while descending. They also said that the ridge route was unclimbable.
    Great to see your summit video. When we were on the last pitch the clouds rolled in so when we got on top we saw nothing besides of the summit itself.

  2. Great job Alan, was it similar to Denali ? What’s next for you ? Nick / Australia

    1. Thanks Nick. Very, very different from Denali – no sleds, weather not nearly as cold, harsh, not as much snow but more serious climbing, very technical and extremely steep; all about the same altitude. A great climb and experience. Next is Rainer with some friends at the end of the month!

  3. Alan,

    Wow, man! What an awesome climb! A huge conrtraulations. Such a cool part of the world and a beautiful mountain with some awesome technical climbing to boot!

    Thanks for the report.


  4. Many congratulations. Can’t wait to see all the pics & vids when I get home on a good connection. Sounds like a perfect trip!

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