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Jul 302011
 
Everest 2011: A letter from my Congressman and more

I was surprised to receive this personal letter today from my US Senator, Mark Udall. I didn’t know a lot about his climbing experience but the personal nature of this note led me to find a kindred spirit with my Senator. While my attention was immediately directed to his climbing comment, it was his acknowledgement of the Alzheimer’s work that brought a smile. Senator Udall supported the National Alzheimer’s Project Act recently signed into law by President Obama. He worked for Colorado Outward Bound School as a course director and educator from 1975-85 and as the organization’s executive director from continue reading

Jun 092011
 
Everest 2011 Final Expediton Report

Everest 2011 is over. This was the third climb of the 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s: Memories are Everything. In my normal tradition, I have written a compete trip report. But this one is a bit different. I wanted to keep my summit in context of the goal thus the report provides a bit of background on my motivation to return to Everest for a fourth time in spite of being 9 years older after my first attempt in 2002. I also try to describe in more detail than in my dispatches about the actual climbing, conditions and what it continue reading

Jun 072011
 
Everest 2011 Gear Recap

I know many readers are self proclaimed Gear Junkies so I thought a brief review of my gear I used to summit Everest would be of interest. As usual, these are not endorsements and I always paid for my gear unless noted otherwise. Overall, I used the same items and techniques I have on 30 expeditions the past 10 years. There were four parts to my Everest expedition: trek to Everest Base Camp (EBC), life at EBC, acclimatization climbs from EBC to Camp 3 at 24,000’ and the climb from the South Col (26,300’) to the summit (29,035’). One more continue reading

May 262011
 
Finishing Everest

Climbing Everest has many parts: training, trekking, climbing and then a traditional unique to the tallest mountain in the world – signing a white board at the Rum Doodle restaurant in Kathmandu. Hanging on the wall behind the bar are two large boards filled with signatures of summiters. Off to the right, under a bit thicker glass, is another frame holding the signatures of Hillary, Rob Hall, Messner and a few others with a “bit” more history than the rest of us. Last night, Heiko, Mirjam, Suzanna and I went there to complete our mission. First we had to show continue reading

May 252011
 
Everest 2011 - Your Questions

I am back in Lukla on our 3rd of 3 days trek from Everest Base Camp. This is an important time for me to process any Himalaya experience. I love walking the Khumbu trails, sharing them with the Yak trains going to or return from Everest Base Camp; seeing the porters with loads taller than they are and of course, the mountains. The weather has been perfect and I am hopeful to fly out of Lukla on Thursday (tomorrow) morning to catch my Friday flight home. I am trekking with Jay and Mirjam and thoroughly enjoying their company. The vast continue reading

May 222011
 
Everest Summit Recap - more than a summit

I stood on the summit of Mount Everest at 5:00 AM, May 21, 2011. To say this event had a personal meaning is an understatement. To say it had a broader meaning leaves much to be explained. I will write a complete trip report in my usual standard once I get home but for now here is an overview from my summit push. The weather played havoc with every team in 2011. High winds were forecasted and changed plans but then never materialized. Sudden storms did appear without notice causing great discomfort, concern and in some cases, frostbite and blindness. continue reading

May 202011
 
Audio Dispatch from Mt. Everest

This is the latest audio dispatch live from Mt. Everest; the third of Alan’s 7 Summits climbs. Click to hear the audio: Everest 2011 Summit Call These climbs are to raise Alzheimer’s awareness and $1M for research. Please donate today. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything Tweet

May 202011
 
Summit: Everest Audio Dispatch

I summited Everest on May 21, 2011 and posted this audio dispatch directly from the top of the world using a satellite phone. This was the third of my 7 Summits climbs for Alzheimer’s. It was an emotional experience from a mountaineering perspective but more so on behalf of Alzheimer’s individuals, their families, caregivers and researchers. Read the full trip report for all the details. Click to listen: I lost my mom and two aunts to Alzheimer’s. Please join me to end Alzheimer’s by making a donation today. Read the details. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything Tweet