Welcome to Alan Arnette’s Everest 2013 coverage
My coverage is based on my own experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest.
Latest Everest News – May 31, 2013
- A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who made a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits. That is why I do this.
- Very rough, unconfirmed estimates: Total at base camps: 415 westerners plus 625 Sherpas totaling 1040. 658 combined summits from both sides 63% summit to attempt rate. 8 total deaths.
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- This page only list the 2013 team locations, click here for the daily 2013 coverage now ended
South Col Route (map)
Everest only TEAMS (members/western guides)
29 teams, 315 climbers, 500+ Sherpas/Staff
|Adventure Consultants (10/4)||e||11/22|
|Adventures Global (5/0)||e||2/2|
|Alpine Ascents Int. (12/3)(4/1)||e||18/21|
|Asian Trekking Eco Teams (26/0)||e||14/21|
|Berg Adventures (3/0)||e||2/2|
|IMG Classic (25?/1?)||e||24/20|
|IMG Hybrid (8?/3?)||e||0/7|
|Jagged Globe (10/3)||e||13/11|
|Mountain Trip (3/1)||e||1/4|
|Peak Freaks (8/3)||e||6/8|
|Pune Indian (6)||e||3/?|
|Summit Climb (7/1)||e||7/5|
|Tim Mosedale (6/1)||e||4/4|
|USAF 7 Summits (6/0)||e||4/4|
|SOUTH TOTAL (est)||539|
Northeast Ridge Route (map)
TEAMS (members/western guides)
10 teams, 100 climbers/125+ Sherpas/Staff
|Asian Trekking (5/0)||e||5/4|
|Adventure Peaks (9/2)||e||8/6|
|Altitude Junkies (10/1)||e||4/7|
|Kobler & Partner||e||6/9|
|Summit Climb (15/1)||e||11/12|
|7 Summits Club (13/4)||e||10/9|
|NORTH TOTAL (est)||119|
|e=climb ended, x=last reported location, x+ =on summit bid, -x =descending h=high sleep point, t=touched not slept. Summit number=member/Sherpa. Locations estimated from public website. Please refer to each expedition’s site for current information. Contact me to add/remove your team from my coverage.|
I did similar coverage for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010 and 2012 seasons. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011 and have climbed Everest four times – 2002, 2003, 2008 and 2011.
If you will forgive the self promotion, Outside Magazine posted in February 2013 an extensive interview with me where I talk abut my childhood, mountains, Everest and of course Alzheimer’s. I appreciate their interest and help. They even said I was “one of the world’s most respected chronicler of Everest”
If you receive value from my annual Everest coverage, please consider a donation to one of these Alzheimer’s nonprofits, 100% for Alzheimer’s, none for me. thank you. Click this link to understand my personal journey with this disease
8 Confirmed 2013 Everest deaths
- Mingma Sherpa, 47, from Lukla, working as Icefall Doctor slipped into crevasse in Western Cwm.
- DaRita Sherpa, 37, from Phortse working for IMG died from sudden cardiac or cerebral event at Camp 3. Family fund at this link
- Sergey Ponomarev climbing with 7 Summits Club died at Advanced Base Camp on the north side presumably of a heart attack.
- Lobsang Sherpa, 27,from Kharikhola working for Seven Summits Treks fell down Lhotse Face.
- Alexey Bolotov, 50, from Russia, has died from a fall. He was climbing with Denis Urubko on a new route on SW Face
- Namgyal Sherpa, 35, Kathmandu and Bangdel Khotang, died on North Side
- Sung Ho-Seo, 34, of South Korea was attempting the climb without supplementary oxygen and died on his way down the mountain.
- Mohammed Hossain, 35, from Bangladesh, died on the descent after summiting.
A death has been reported on Lhotse. Xiaoshi Li, 58, died climbing Lhotse. An earlier report of Hsiao Shishlee, proved to be the same person.
Please click this link for the discussion page including on the Simone More/Sherpa Conflict.
Have you heard anything about a very small team from Ecuador climbing the northeast ridge route? I think they are attempting to put the first Ecuadorian women on the summit. The group summited Manaslu in 2012 after the avalanche.
Sorry Doug, no info on that team that I can find.
Doug, there are actually eight Ecuadorians on Everest this year. On northside, there would be a group of five nationals and Tisalema Patrick who is attempting to go atop in one day without O2. Paulina Aulestia and famous Santiago Quintero would be on Nepalese side but with different expeditions.
Most of them have set up personal websites where you can catch frequent updates.
Detailed news report: http://www.hoy.com.ec/noticias-ecuador/los-cuatro-que-vuelven-al-everest-578141.html
This is such a wonderful site. I’m just a novice climber. Just wanted to know how many miles from base camp to summit. Not vertical but trekking miles.
Thanks Craig, It is a bit over 5 miles from Base Camp to the summit using the standard South Col route. You can see all the details on my page at http://www.alanarnette.com/everest/everestsouthroutes.php
I love following the questions asked and your meticulous replies. I am beginning to learn the answers to some of the questions and the reasoning behind them. I still have a long way to go yet! I love the image of Earl climbing from his desk dressed in his business suit, I know just where he’s coming from.Cheers Kate
Thanks Kate, I do my best but my answers are just my opinions based on my experience. I need to go back and get some more!
When I met with Paul Thelen this past January, who was with Asian Trekking expedition last May and lost his friend Dr. Eberhard Schaff, he told me he was returning to base camp this year. Not in an attempt to summit, but to take part in an effort to get two lines run above camp 4 in bottle neck areas such as Hillary’s step. Are you aware of those discussions taking place and what do you think ofthat idea??
Hi Louis, There have been dual lines on the Hillary Step, Lhotse Face and Yellow Band in the past. If often depends on who is fixing the line to the summit. It is expensive, take a lot more time and puts the Sherpas in danger for a longer period. So it is not an easy decision. There has been a lot of discussions on how to reduce the bottlenecks for 2013 including getting the lines up early, dual ropes, bolts instead of anchors for the fixed lines, etc. Often it comes down to the conditions and how well the teams are working together.
I am just an arm chair climber and very relieved that reporting of Everest Expeditions are in hands of such a genuine person,
Alan my question to you is that as you have mentioned that this year there are three teams who will be trying to summit from three different routes, How will they be passing through crevasses i mean nobody must have put on ladders on those crevasses lying on those different routes?
Hi Rinkesh, One team has canceled due to money (see https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2013/03/21/everest-2013-nepal-base-camp-established/)
On these new routes, they are new by definition given no one has climbed them thus no ladders or aid. This is why these efforts are so special in that the climbers must do 100% of the route finding and climbing. It often takes a couple of attempts to establish a new route primarily due to finding the best way up but these guys are some of the best in the world today.
I don’t see RMI on your list of teams – Dave Hahn is leading a group who should be arriving at base camp in the next 2 or so weeks.
Thanks Cyndi. I just added them.
Firstly thank you for the effort you put in to make your reports as accurate and factual as they can be. Your coverage is one of a kind, and in my opinion the best there is.
Secondly, do you know of any teams that are climbing the lesser known routes up Everest? The west ridge perhaps or the fantasy route?
Maybe a team trying a completely new route?
Thanks Alex, there are 3 teams reported to be attempting new routes this year. I don’t think anyone is attempting the Fantasy or West Ridge, but you never know. I wrote about the three I know of in the post. It will be very exciting!
Awesome coverage of the expeditions and also some informative and very interesting interviews ( David Tait, Dawes Eddy, Guy Cotter etc..) If conditions are similar to last year early on in the season do you think Russell Brice will be able to make the same decision or will he be more inclined to wait it out?
Thanks Matt. Knowing Russ, I believe given the same circumstances he would make the same decision. I believe he made his decision based on the safety of his members and Sherpas and nothing else mattered. Let’s hope for better conditions for all the teams this year.
Hi Alan, just wanted to say how great I think your coverage of Everest every year is – been following it for the past few years. I also wanted to say how inspirational your coverage is. I’m not a climber I’m a trekker and I’m off to trek to the Gokyo Lakes and Everest Base Camp later this year – this is my Everest! I will be following your 2013 coverage as closely as ever and have already drawn inspiration from your training schedule and also a blog you did on using climbing as an analogy for Teamwork. Thank you for your inspiration and my thoughts are with all those who are hoping to fulfil their personal dream of climbing and returning from Everest! As another mountaineer said ‘ Dreams are meant to wake you – not send you to sleep’. Sand Coleman
Thanks Sand, Have a great time in the Khumbu. The Goyko Lakes are one of my favorite places – so remote. Hope you can get a view of Cho Oyu!
I was looking at the live web cam and it doesn’t look like there is any snow at the South Col. Is it the time of year, the angle of the camera or just no snow?
I cannot get the webcam to come up, they say the link is down. So you might have seen an old image. But even if it is live, you will not see very much snow. it is so windy on the South Col that snow rarely accumulates. Also like you saw, the camera angle is not the best for that view. We will have to wait for the Sherpas to start going up before we really know the conditions for 2013 and that will not be until mid April.
hi Alan , welcome back to us for another thrilling season i hope. i have a friend who is attempting everest this year with Lakpa Sherpa from Himalayan ascent. any chance you could add them onto your list as well this year?
regards nick , looking forward to your blogs.
Hi Nick, will they be posting regular updates so we can follow them? Or who is the climber and will he be posting updates? Without updates, I cannot list them, just too many small teams to do that otherwise.
Hi Alan, thanks for taking the time to keep us Everest lovers informed, you do a remarkable job. I can hardly wait for the climbs to begin. I hope it’s a good year and everyone has a safe journey. Kathy
Alan, Looking foward again to climbing from my desk this year. Your work is truly appericated! I have followed your blogs from the beginning. My #1 bucket list trip is to get to the monostary in a few years. Thanks, Earl
Thank you for doing this. I found your coverage last year to be very thorough and very well done. From what I’ve seen on the Internet, your site is hands down the easiest to use in terms of figuring out what is going on on the mountain. I look forward to seeing more this climbing season. I’ll try and spread the word.
thanks for doing this alan ,your info is great.When do expeditions usually start setting up BC?
Paul, Sherpas will stake out their spots as early as February and then return to start building platforms and clearing areas in March. The first teams will arrive around April 1 but most the 2nd week in April.