Welcome to Alan Arnette’s Everest 2016 coverage
My annual coverage is based on my own summit and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest.
I attempted Lhotse this spring but ended it early due to an upper respiratory infection.
A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who joins the Alzheimer’s Prevention Registry or makes a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits.
Manage email notifications of new posts using the form in the lower right corner of this page.
Final Everest 2016 News
- Please see the Everest 2016 Season summary
- Please consider a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits if you value this coverage
- Climbing has ended from both sides
- Since 2000, there have been 82 deaths with an average (and median) of a total of seven deaths each season combined on both sides.
- Using the arbitrary measure of summits to deaths, from 2000 to 2013 the ratio is 1.85%, for 2016 it dropped to 0.8%.
- In the 1990’s the median ratio was 5.6%.
- From the early 1920 to today it is about 4%.
- In 2016, 20 attempts with no Os from both sides, 5 succeeded
- Please consider a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits if you value this coverage
… read all the Everest 2016 posts.
Previous Major Headlines
- No Lhotse summits this year
- Please consider a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits if you value this coverage
- Excellent, candid report by David Hamilton, Jagged Globe, on their tough summit
- Sherpas with 10-15 summits of Everest note that the Hillary Step has much more snow than in previous years and appears more like a snow ramp than a rock climb but the rocks are unmoved by the 2015 earthquake.
- Slovakia climbers rescued off Southwest Face (not normal route) source
- 289 Everest permits have been issued to 32 different teams
- Trekkers are down 40% this spring
- Please consider a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits if you value this coverage
- In 2015, the Ministry of Tourism reported 319 individuals with Everest permits and 96 for Lhotse. 109 climbers from 2014 used their permits in 2015.
- NCELL phone is spotty for voice, little 3G at EBC, EverestLink is working well
- ropes for the summit safety line were helicoptered into the Camp 1 on May 24.
- Icefall route has only 7 ladders, usually has 20.
- Weather continues to be quite warm, more like late May than mid April
2016 Everest Deaths: 5
- Paresh Chandra Nath with Trekking Camp Nepal found on Balcony. source
- Goutam Ghosh with Trekking Camp Nepal found on Balcony. source
- Subash Pal with Trekking Camp Nepal died on Nepal side source
- Dr Marisa (Maria) Elizabeth Strydom with Seven Summits Treks dies at South Col. source
- Eric Arnold with Seven Summits Treks (Arnold Costner) dies at South Col. source
2016 Lhotse Death: 1
- Ang Furba Sherpa, fixing ropes for Lhotse. Worked for Arun
2016 Everest North Col Only Death: 1
- Charles MacAdams died at Chinese Base Camp after reaching his goal of the North Col source
… read all the Everest 2016 posts.
South Col Route (map)(Note: If an operator does not provide timely updates, they are not listed) | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Everest only TEAMS (members/western guides) | EBC | C1 | C2 | C3 | C4 S.Col | Summits (foreigners/Sherpas) | |
  | Adventure Consultants (9/2) | e | 8/13 | ||||
| | Adventures Global (2/1) | e | 3/3 | ||||
| | Alpine Ascents Int. (2/2) | e | 3/3 | ||||
| | Arnold Coster Expeditions (7) | e | ? | ||||
| Ascent Himalayas | e | 4/6 | ||||
| | Asian Trekking Eco Teams (14+) | e | 11/10 | ||||
| | Altitude Junkies (7) | e | 5/11 | ||||
| | Dreamers Destination | e | 3/3 | ||||
| | Furtenbach Adventures (6/2) | e | 5/6? | ||||
| | High Adventure Expeditions | e | 0/1 | ||||
| Himex (5/1) | e | 6/6 | ||||
| | IMG Classic (30?) | e | 7/11 | ||||
| | IMG Hybrid (10/4) | e | 13/15 | ||||
| | Jagged Globe (5/1) | e | 4/5 | ||||
| | Madison Mountaineering (9/3) | e | 12/15 | ||||
| | Mountain Trip | e | 3/3 | ||||
| | Satori Adventures | e | 7/10 | ||||
| | Summit Climb (8/1) | e | 4/? | ||||
| | Seven Summits Treks (45+) | e | 25/24++ | ||||
| | Tim Mosedale (2/1) | e | 2/2 | ||||
| | 360 Expeditions (1/1) | e | 2/2 | ||||
| others | 57/100 | ||||||
| SOUTH TOTAL (est) | 433++ | ||||||
Northeast Ridge Route (map)(Note: If an operator does not provide timely updates, they are not listed) | |||||||
TEAMS (members/western guides) | CBC | ABC | C1 N.Col | C2 | C3 | Summits (foreigners/Sherpas) | |
| | Asian Trekking | ? | |||||
| | Alpenglow (2/1) | e | 4/3 | ||||
| Adventure Peaks | e | 4/2 | |||||
| Kobler & Partner | e | 5/? | |||||
| | Summit Climb (11/1) | e | 10/8+ | ||||
| | Satori Adventures | e | 6/6 | ||||
| Heroes Project | e | 4/4 | |||||
| 7 Summits Club (22/4) | e | 15/12 | ||||
| others | 55 | ||||||
| NORTH TOTAL (est) | 130++ | ||||||
| L=Lobuche,e=climb ended, x=last reported location, x+ =on summit bid, -x =descending h=high sleep point, t=touched not slept. Summit number=member/Sherpa. Locations estimated from public website. Please refer to each expedition’s site for current information. Contact me to add/remove your team from my coverage. | |||||||
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- I did similar coverage for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014 and 2015 seasons. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011 and have attempted Everest three other times – 2002, 2003, 2008 and Lhotse in 2015.
- If you will forgive the self promotion, Outside Magazine posted an extensive interview with me where I talk about my childhood, mountains, Everest and of course Alzheimer’s. I appreciate their interest and help. They even said I was “one of the world’s most respected chronicler of Everest”
- If you receive value from my annual Everest coverage, please consider a donation to one of these Alzheimer’s nonprofits, 100% for Alzheimer’s, none for me. thank you. Click this link to understand my personal journey with this disease
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15 thoughts on “Everest 2016: Team Locations and Headlines”
Hi Alan,Found your site by accident last night ,and didn’t go to bed ,found it informative interesting and a valuable research tool .
I have a son Richard Parks on Everest now attempting a summit without O2 (with Jagged Globe ) climbing to C2 today as part of a medical research program with a strong Alzheimer’s / Dementia link. Details can be found on his web site Richard Parks Everest Project which you might find interesting
Kind Regards Derek
Have a safe climb as I go up again this year from my computer.
Hi Alan, another year, another Everest season along with all the ups and downs that go with it. Even in your wildest dreams you cannot begin to imagine how much pleasure you bring to your armchair supporters. I haven’t always been an armchair supporter but my climbing was done during the years long gone when my village neighbour Ian Clough was doing his exciting climbs along with our famous Alan Hinkes.As you will know Ian was killed during his descent from Annapurna and we have a large village hall built and named after him. In those days foreign travel was difficult and very expensive hence I never got any further than Switzerland and Austria. Our own Cairngorm mountains are some of the best places around to develope your mountaineering skills and prepare for the big ones but don’t prepare you for the death zone. When I was eighteen I ( thanks to a poor guide ) nearly came to a sad end as our leader fell past me at a point when none of the three of us were belayed.According to the rules of gravity I should have followed him together with my other companion.I marvel to this day as to what saved us from certain death as being only small of frame I shouldn’t have been able to break his fall. The experience made me realise how narrow the gap between life and death really is.It also makes me more appreciative of the skills and risks you guys take every day that you set off for a climb.After the fall I spent four hours clinging to a rock face in mist and pouring rain until help appeared from above – no it was not divine help but it felt like it at the time ! I have just had a big birthday so no permit for me but I have four sporty kids, two who love climbing and I can see Everest getting nearer.I tell you the tale merely to empathise how much I appreciate the blogs and photos you publish both for enjoyment and for all the good work you do in memory of your mum and other sufferers of this cruel Alzheimer’s.I may not place a comment each time as I am sure you are busy enough with your two events to cover but you may be assured that this lass from the Yorkshire Dales is following you step by step and wishing you all a safe journey so Climb On. Cheers Kate
Thanks Kate as always for your thoughts and support
With you again Alan! Also following Brent Bishop. Each year I look forward to your amazing coverage of my favorite adventure. Thank you always for your focus on finding a cure for Alzheimers!
Will be following Alan, Can’t thank you enough for your help with my University work. You’re a great man.
Hi, Alan – I look forward to your daily news re: Everest; I hope you and everyone else have a safe and successful season; regards, Roger.
Hi Alan and team,
My year 11 Outdoor and environmental studies group will be following your climb as part of an assignment they are doing in their school vce course at oberon high school, Geelong- near Bells Beach. We do basic in and outdoor climbing but the students are always fascinated by the experience of following a real summit. May this years climate be a safe one for all groups.
yours Craig Feaver
Head of Outdoor Ed
Alan, Because my name is Kat, my friends called me Kathmandu when I was a kid—perhaps they knew something back then—-am I I destined to travel there one day? For now, I will enjoy from afar, thankful for your inspired journey on behalf of your mom, and appreciative of your efforts to fully immerse us in another world, culture…Peace and safe journey to you and all who travel with you!
Thank you Kat!
Thank you so much for your yearly coverage. While I have absolutely no desire to actually climb Everest, it is my dream to trek to EBC one day. I love following along watching the progress of all of the teams making their way up the mountain. Thanks for all you do. Good luck to this years climbers!
Thank you MIchelle/ I appreciate your good wishes.
Hi Alan – I don’t see Peak Freaks on the Team list. Are they climbing this year? I followed their website a few years ago, before I started following yours. Thanks – and thanks for your insightful articles about Everest, and climbing in general.
Helene, I don’t believe Tim is doing a climb this spring but a support trek in Autumn to help rebuild.
Here’s hoping for a largely incident free Everest climbing season this year.
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