2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Warming Conditions

The cold is easing up a bit allowing more movement on Everest. No word from Denis Urubko on Broad Peak.


Txikon on Southeast Ridge – At EBC

Alex Txikon and team are hoping to leave EBC for Camp 3 or even 4 at the South Col in a day or so. Txikon’s posted this update on Facebook and Twitter

Finally, after one month know the Himalaya, we can have lunch outside!

His team includes Spaniard Oscar Cardo, and Nepalese Sherpas Chhiji Nurbu Sherpa, Pechhumbe Sherpa, and Tenjen Sherpa. You can follow him on his tracker.

Jost on West Ridge – At EBC

German alpinist Jost Kobusch, is seeing the predicted warming temps but summit conditions remain too tough to even attempt.  In review, he plans on a winter, solo Everest climb without supplemental oxygen and no Sherpa support. This exact style has never been attempted or accomplished. You can track his location on this excellent map from 3D Reality Maps. He have this update Tuesday, February 11, 2020 on Facebook:

Just checked the weather forecast – the temperatures tend to rise – spring is coming! Summit temperatures of minus 69, like yesterday, are no longer in prospect. Today it is less windy – 20km/h wind and up to 60km/h gusts. For the lower part of the route this would be fine, but from tomorrow on in the upper part of the mountain there will be constant wind around 40km/h and gusts around 100km/h for the next days. As a benchmark➡️in good weather, a summit ascent could work if the gusts reach a maximum of 40km/h and otherwise it’s rather 20km/h wind – and even that would be damn cold! 🤪 Small disclaimer: The weather forecast yesterday was definitively refuted – it was the opposite of what was announced!🙈 I decided to go up again and see how the conditions are ‘really’ – without a doubt the wind is blowing at the summit but maybe I’ll still manage to have a look at the upper part of the route.

Broad Peak

No update from Denis Urubko who was last reported at base camp waiting for improved weather.

Winter 2019/20



Broad Peak

  • Denis Urubko – Base Camp

Batura Sar 

Ama Dablam

  • Zoltán Szlankó, Alex Goldfarb – Summitted

Gasherbrum I/II – Over

  • Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger – Over

Climb On!
Memories are Everything



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