Minga G tells me the ropes are up to 7300-meters, a bit higher than the previous estimate. However, with the big winds and everyone at Base Camp, it feels a bit academic at the moment.
All quiet from K2 BC with a difficult weather forecast. This is the money quote for the next week or so:
(Days 10-12): Mostly dry. Extremely cold (max -15°F on Sun afternoon, min -33°F on Wed afternoon). Winds increasing (light winds from the WSW on Sun afternoon, stormy winds from the WSW by Mon afternoon).
- Mingma Gyalje Sherpa: 3 people, all Sherpas
- Nims Purja : Nims plus six Nepalis/Sherpas in support, One client looking to experience BC and perhaps C1
- John Snorri Sigurjonsson with Muhammad Ali Sadpara and son: a three-person independent team
- Seven Summits Trek’s (SST) 49 person commercial team with over 22 clients with various experience on 8000-meter winter climbs and 27 Sherpas in support.
Mingma G – At BC
Mingma Gyalje Sherpa is resting at BC. He and his small Sherpa-only team said they reached 7300-meters, roughly at the top of the Black Pyramid. But traditional C3 is around 7,200-meter and the SST Sherpas said they reached 7050-meters, so, for me, it’s unclear on the precise altitude, other than above the rocks of the Pyramid.
Snorri – At BC
The winter is hovering over K2. It looks like it’s going to be there until the 20th of January. The wind goes up to 250 km per hour in the higher camps. Meanwhile we are gathering energy, keeping our mindset focused and spirit positive for next ascent
Seven Summits Treks: All at BC
Seven Summits Trek’s commercial team has regrouped at K2 Base Camp. They suggest a summit bid after January 14, 2021. The leader of the SST team, Dawa posted this video from BC:
Alex Gavin‘s home team seemed to put a stake in the ground that they will stay “all winter”:
The expedition is expected to last until the end of winter, the two climbers announced. Their planned route will be via the Abruzzi Spur, the original line of the 1954 successful first ascent of the mountain. During their acclimatization period, between the 5000-meter high Base Camp and the summit, the two plan to set up four high camps at the altitudes of 6000m, 6760m, 7350m, and with the last one at almost 8000m. This expedition also marks the first attempt of a Romanian on an 8000+ meter winter climb.
- Base Camp: 17,500ft/5334m
- Advanced Base Camp: 18,650ft/5650m
- Camp 1: 19,965’/6050m
- Camp 2: 22,110’/6700m
- Camp 3: 23,760’/7200m
- Camp 4: 25,080’/7600m
- Summit: 28,251”/8611m
Winter Definition (again)
I wrote a long post about this but the bottom line is that absent of a ruling body, the definition is left to the climbers. Most countries who issue climbing permits use meteorological, Dec, Jan, and Feb but a lot of climbers like to use astronomical which aligns with the solstices – December 21 and March 20 in the northern hemisphere.
For me? I don’t think of March as winter but also think winter begins with the winter solstice. December, so I guess I’m in the middle.
Broad Peak – En Route
Manaslu – En Route, Heavy Snow
Over 3 feet of new snow is being reported around Manaslu Base Camp. This is what has stopped many previous winter attempts. We’ll see what happens this year.
Simone Moro, Alex Txikon, and Iñaki Alvarez have left Kathmandu for their winter attempt of Manaslu. They anticipate arriving at Base Camp around January 11, 2021. Tenji Sherpa and Vinayak Jaya Malla, both Nepali internationally certified mountain guides (IFMGA) are also on Manaslu. Currently, they are back in Samagaun resting after doing acclimatization hikes in the area.
Memories are Everything