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Feb 282021
Raising Prayer Flags over Everest Base CampRaising Prayer Flags over Everest Base Camp


First wave of rotations to start soon

Welcome to the 2021 edition of Alan Arnette’s annual coverage of the Everest climbing season. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge and reward of climbing Everest. It’s based on my three Everest attempts and my 2011 summit plus my climbing experiences of a K2 summit in 2014, Manaslu in 2013, and 30+ more peaks around the world. My reporting uses my own research, sources, and public information.

New! The Podcast on

You can listen to #everest2021 podcasts on SpotifyApple Podcast, Breaker, Google Podcasts, Pocket Casts, RadioPublic, Anchor, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast platform.

Click for the complete Everest 2021 coverage

Current Headlines

  • Snow stalls progress on supplying Everest high camps
  • COVID from climber at EBC? Mixed results
  • 338 Everest permits, 104 for Lhotse
  • Teams are making rotations to C1
  • Annapurna record summits – over 60

Previous Headlines

  • Very few trekkers in Nepal this spring
  • Large Chinese team reported on the Tibet side establishing base camp
  • Sherpas are reported “nervous” about the condition of the Icefall
  • A Very Happy New Year 2078 (Bikram Samvat) to Nepal!
  • 290 Everest Permits Issued through April 13
  • 456 total climbing permits throughout Nepal
  • Khumbu is quiet without all the trekking teams
  • Everest ER setup at EBC and already treating patients
  • Multiple teams begin their trek from Lukla to Everest Base Camp
  • Icefall Doctors have the route to C2
  • 20 ladders in the Khumbu Icefall this year but others are saying only 1.
  • Commercial teams are establishing C1 and C2 sites
  • Fires across Nepal are delaying flights to Lukla
  • teams starting the trek to EBC
  • Everest 2021 Teams Arriving in Kathmandu


The permits for Everest continue to grow approaching the 219 record of 382. The Nepal Ministry of Tourism posted these foreign permit tally thus far. As I’ve noted, many teams are still arriving, and some are planning to come in mid-April, relatively late. This is probably due to the massive confusion around Nepal’s COVID quarantine and testing rules. Even with this slow start, over 350 Everest foreign permits are expected, with the Tibet side closed to foreigners.

  • Everest: 338 on 36 teams (350 expected)
  • Lhotse: 104 on 11 teams
  • Nuptse: 23 on 3 teams
  • Manaslu: 1 on 1 team (over)
  • Annapurna: 44 on 4 teams
  • Dhaulagiri: 30 on 4 teams
  • Pumori: 5 on 1 team
  • Makalu: 20 on 2 teams
  • Ama Dablam: 27 on 2 teams
  • Tukuche: 1 on 1 team
  • Tilichho: 8 on 1 team
  • Tengkangpoche: 2 on 1 team
  • Barun Tse: 12 on 1 team

Connect and Support

South Col Route (map)

locations are for the majority of each team, individuals may be higher or lower

Everest only TEAMS
(TBD members/TBD western guides)
C4 S.Col
Summits (foreigners/Sherpas)
Fixed Line Progress
Facebook for AAI Alpine Ascents Int. (7/2)X
Facebook for IMGAsian Trekking:X
Facebook for MTClimbing the Seven Summits (25+/4+)X
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PF Furtenbach Adventures:X
Facebook for Nims Twitter for PF Elite Expeditions (10)X
Facebook for IMG IMG 25+/5+X
Facebook for IMGImagine Nepal
Facebook for MT Twitter for PF Madison MountaineeringX
Facebook for SCMountain Professionals (7/3)X
Facebook for SCMountain Trip (7/3)T
Facebook for SC Twitter for PF Summit Climb  (11/2)X
Facebook for SC Twitter for PFSeven Summits Treks International –X
Facebook for SC Twitter for PFSeven Summits Treks: Indian Army –X
Facebook for SC Twitter for PFSeven Summits Treks: Bahrain (16)X
Facebook for SC 7 Summits Club (11/3)T
others (est)

Northeast Ridge Route (map)

locations are for the majority of each team, individuals may be higher or lower

C1 N.Col
Summits (foreigners/Sherpas)
Fixed Line Progress
LEGEND T/D=Trek/Driving to BC, K=Kathmandu, La=Lhasa, Lo=Lobuche, e=climb ended, x=last reported location, x+ =on summit bid, -x =descending h=high sleep point, t=touched not slept. Summit number=member/Sherpa. Locations estimated from public websites. Please refer to each expedition’s site for current information. Contact me to add/remove your team from my coverage.

Other Teams

Not providing enough updates to track or comment

Alpine Sherpa Guide 
Himalaya Expeditions
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI Ascent Himalayas 
Facebook for IMG Twitter for PFDreamers Destination:
Everest Quest
Happy Feet
Himalayan Guides
Facebook for IMGHimex:
Himalaya Expedition
Himalaya Ascent 8 members
Himalayan Traverse
Kaitu Expedition
Myrmidon Expeditions
Glacier Himalaya
Peak Promotion: 4 members
Pioneer Adventure
Rolwaling (4/0)
Facebook for SCSatori Adventures
Summit Nepal Treks

I did similar coverage for the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018 and 2019 seasons. In 2020, I did a fictitious Virtual Everest series that’s available as an e-Book. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011, and have attempted Everest three other times –2002, 2003, 2008, and Lhotse in 2015 and 2016.

If you will forgive the self-promotion Outside Magazine posted an extensive interview with me and called me “one of the world’s most respected chronicler of Everest”

I do this coverage for one reason only, raising awareness and funds to find a way to slow, stop or prevent Alzheimer’s Disease. If you visit often and appreciate this site, please consider a donation to an Alzheimer’s nonprofit. 100% goes to them, nothing ever to me. Click this link to understand my personal journey with AD that took Ida Arnette in 2009.
donate to Alzheimers

Everest Weather
Base CampSummit
not intended to replace professional forecasts or for critical decisions

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  7 Responses to “Everest 2021: Team Locations and Headlines”


    Hi Alan,
    Do you know if Kenton is climbing this season? I see he is in the Khumbu with his family.


    Hi Alan, looking forward to following your updates. TAGNepal don’t appear on your table. We have a Sherpa friend in the team. Today he is at Lobuche base camp and going to Debuche tomorrow.


    Advancements in technology have helped reduce Everest to a trophy (…okay, it always was.) Advancements in income, have helped reduce Everest to a novelty. Looking at the crowds up there, it seems a tad unfair to the snowboarders who I’m sure have spent years training.
    True, we love Everest for all the obvious reasons, but how is reverence for the mountain any different from rest of the planet? Look how we treat our indigenous people and their lands.
    A stunt is characterized by the element of irreverence and ‘silly’, a stunt is a stunt.

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