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Apr 282022
 

Big news on the ‘other’ 8000ers with 15 members with 15 High Altitude Workers summiting on Annapurna. Over on Everest, the hard work of adjusting bodies to the thin air continues.

Big Picture

With a break in the weather, the summit of Annapurna was visited by 30 people on April 28, 2022. but the other 8000ers are playing coy at the moment. Climbing is strong on Everest with the ropes high on the peak. Sherpas are beginning to stock all the camps to support summit pushes. Remember that the sweet spot is between May 18 to 23, so we have a few weeks to go for the masses. The first summits will be by the rope fixing team, and that could be any day now. See the tracking table for the latest team locations.

8000ers – Annapurna Summits

8K Expeditions Annapurna Team

8K Expeditions Annapurna Team

Pemba Sherpa of 8K Expeditions contacted me to talk about their 100% success on Annapurna and how proud he was of two of his Sherpas, Pasadawa Sherpa and Lakpa T Sherpa, for their role in helping fix the ropes to the summit.

He said it was a bit difficult for the six members with eight Sherpas who summited between 11:25 am all the way to 4:00 pm starting from the High Camp or C4. He said not everyone was down yet and some are struggling. Pemba told me he had another five left to attempt the summit. These climbers and support made the top:

  1.  Norweigan, Kristin Harila, 35, wanting to summit all 14 of the 8,000-meters peaks in six or seven months, setting a female record, summited. Her first phase includes: Annapurna (summited), Dhaulagiri, Kanchenjunga, Everest, Lhotse and Makalu. The second phase has Nanga Parbat, G1, G2, Broad Peak, and K2.
2. Kasturi Deepak Savekar – India
3. Baibanou Bouchra – Morocco
4. Australian, Allie Pepper, 47, going for her fifth 8000ers. She has Everest, Cho Oyu, and Manaslu,
Climbing Guides:
1. Dawa Ongju Sherpa – Sirdar
2. Pasdawa Sherpa – Rope Fixing
3. Halung Dorchi Sherpa –
4. Lakpa Thendu Sherpa – Rope Fixing
5. Dawa Wongchu Sherpa
6. Lakpa Nurbu Sherpa
7. Dawa Tenzing Sherpa
Also summiting was Kami Sherpa, and Urgen Sherpa with Bharath Thammineni, Palkesh Kalma, Baljeet Kaur, and Skalzang Rigzin from Peak Promotions and Seven Summits Treks with:
1. Gelje Sherpa (Fixing Team)
2. Pasang Nurbu Sherpa (Fixing Team)
3. Adriana Brownlee at 21, is hoping to set a female age record for all 14. She has Everest and Lhotse.
4. Dorota Lidia Samocko
5. Dawa Sherpa
6. Olga Koroleva
7. Chhangba Sherpa
8. Hans Wenzl No O2
9. Tim Bogdanov No O2
10. Giamppaolo Corona   No O2
Tawainese Tseng Ko-Erh aka Grace Tseng, 30, is hoping to get all 14 of the 8000ers, summitted with Nima Gyalzen Sherpa and Ningma Dorje Tamang of Dolma Outdoor. She didn’t use O’s this time. She has Everest, Lhotse and Manaslu.

Kangchenjunga – Playing Tough

Mimnga G of Imagine Nepal had to pull the summit attempt due to poor conditions. Coloradoan Tracee Metcalf, 48, ended her summit push just a week after submitting Dhaulagiri. She has summited Everest, Cho Oyu, Makalu, and Annapurna. She said, “Down to BC but I think we spent several hours above 8400 in very technical terrain. I accept no summit was possible but I am disappointed in my decisions.”

And Dutch legend, Wilco van Rooijen,  made this interesting post about rescue and conditions, “Last night was 1-st summit attemped with team Nirmal Purja Purja Purja. It failed. And 1 heli rescue 6350m! (Team flew in from other 8000m mountain) ”

Dhaulagiri: Still Holding

Carlos Sori, 83, Sito Carcavilla, and the six Sherpas are hoping to get to the summit soon. They’ve been holding at BaseCamp for improved weather. Their latest update showed them holding as of April 26, “Today we went to “the stone of Sito” to train. It is a rock located about 2.5 hours from the Base Camp full of fossils and from where you have a great view of Dhaulagiri.”

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything


Nepal Permit Update as of April 26, 2022 – Everest Holding at 303, 100 less than 2021

The permits for Everest are leveling out albeit around 100 less than the record set in 2021 of 408. Climbing permits have been issued for 886 climbers from 73 countries for 25 peaks. Looking at Everest only, the US has the largest representation with 63 members, followed by the UK-33, Nepal (non-Sherpas)-20, India-22, Canada-17, Russia-17, France-12, China-10, and Austria with 10. There are 37 countries represented by a single climber.

These permits have generated $3.7M in royalties for the government. Almost all of this revenue stays in Kathmandu, with some in various personal pockets and none to the Sherpas, porters, or other high-altitude workers. The Nepal Ministry of Tourism posted these foreign permit tally as of April 26, 2022:

  1. Everest: 303 on 38 teams  (many very small teams this year)
  2. Ama Dablam: 97 on 9 teams
  3. Annapurna I: 26 on 4 teams
  4. Annapurna 4: 9 on 1 team
  5. Baruntse: 20 on 3 teams
  6. Bhemdang: 8 on 1 team
  7. Dhaulagiri: 27 on 3 teams
  8. Gangapurna: 2 on 1 team
  9. Himlung: 35 on 4 teams
  10. Khangchung: 68 on 7 teams  (many very small teams this tear)
  11. Kangchung/UIAA: 2 on 1 teams
  12. Lhotse: 112 on 12 teams
  13. Makalu: 39 on 4 teams
  14. Manaslu: 9 on 1 team
  15. Mukot: 4 on 1 team
  16. Norbu Khang: 5 on 1 team
  17. Nuptse: 57 on 7 teams
  18. Phu Khang: 5 on 1 team
  19. Pokhar Kang: 9 on 1 team
  20. Putha Hiunchuli: 14  on 1 team
  21. Ratna Chuli: 9 on 1 team
  22. Saribung: 10 on 2 teams
  23. Saula: 2 on 1 team
  24. Thapa (Dhampus): 12 on 4 teams
  25. Urknmang: 2 on 1 team

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Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything


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Comments on/from Facebook

  8 Responses to “Everest 2022: 8000er Summits!”

  1.  

    Of course, I find it as soon as I posted. Apologies.

  2.  

    Could someone point me in the direction of the tracking tables? I have looked around and can not find a link to it.

  3.  

    Happy 22 climbing season Alan. You know if any of the climbing teams are filming their climbs this year?

  4.  

    Why call them “high altitude workers”.
    High Altitude Climbing Guides is far more appropriate !!

    •  

      Hi Fred,

      Well, it’s complicated. The word ‘guide’ has real value and meaning, especially to anyone who is certified as an IFMGA or AMGA guide. They spent tens of thousands of dollars plus years to earn the right to call themselves a guide. Similar to using the title, ‘Engineer.” So not every person who works on a mountain, any mountain, is a ‘guide.’

      Also, not every person who works on Everest is a “Sherpa.” As you know, Sherpa is an ethnicity, like German, Canadian, or American, not the name of a professional, like an Electrical Engineer. There are Tibetan, Han, Hui, Tujia, Sherpa, and Nepalese, Kachart on the Tibet side. Nepal has 126 castes and ethnic groups: Chhetri, Brahman-Hill, Magar, Tharu, Tamang, Newar, Kami, Musalman, Yadav, and Rai. Many have jobs as porters, in teahouses, cooks at mountain camps, cook assistance, yak drivers, etc.

      The use of ‘Sherpa’ to define anyone who works on a mountain, while still the majority, is a bit misleading. The Himalayan Database uses the term ‘hired’ for anyone who doesn’t pay, as they are called ‘members.’ Over the years, the use of High-Altitude Worker’ has tried to get a foothold but hasn’t taken root. I use it every now and then.

      Hope this helps.