Everest 2022: Acclimitization Protocal

Setting the Fixed rope on the Lhotse Face on Everest

It’s mid-season, and there are mixed results on the ‘other’ 8000ers and a lot of movement on Everest. The ropes are now at the South Col, and the rope team estimates tagging the summit around May 10, depending on the weather. This is slower than previous estimates. Let’s take a look at acclimatization and climbing the Lhotse Face.

Big Picture

As I previously reported, helicopters were used to ferry the gear needed for the summit fixed line to Camp 2, reducing scores of trips through the Icefall for the Sherpas. Good move by Nepal to be mindful of the Sherpa’s safety. Also, helicopters were used to remove trash from the 21015 earthquake down from Camp 2. Again, kudos, to all involved.

Teams are now scattered all over the Big Hill, working on their acclimatization, from EBC to Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face.

In what seems like a bit of contrived drama, multiple media outlets pasted headlines about missing Italian climber Giampaolo Corona on Annapurna. He was reported lost but then regained radio contact and said he was fine. Unfortunately, this situation is a fairly common occurrence, but happy Giampalo is fine.

Everest 2022: 8000er Summits!

Big news on the ‘other’ 8000ers with 15 members with 15 High Altitude Workers summiting on Annapurna. Over on Everest, the hard work of adjusting bodies to the thin air continues. 

Big Picture

With a break in the weather, the summit of Annapurna was visited by 30 people on April 28, 2022. but the other 8000ers are playing coy at the moment. Climbing is strong on Everest with the ropes high on the peak. Sherpas are beginning to stock all the camps to support summit pushes. Remember that the sweet spot is between May 18 to 23, so we have a few weeks to go for the masses. The first summits will be by the rope fixing team, and that could be any day now. See the tracking table for the latest team locations.

Everest 2022: When Will They Summit?

We’ll see multiple summits over the next couple of days on several 8000-meter peaks. The ropes are almost to the South Col on Everest, and the Sherpa rope team is making good progress. There seem’s to be a high number of female climbers this year, many wanting to records. As we move towards May, it’s time to start asking, “When will they summit?”

Big Picture

I spoke live with Garrett Madison from Everest Base Camp last night, April 25 in the U.S. They had just returned from their first rotations. Garret reported all was well, and the conditions are pretty good overall. He said he expects the fixed rope to reach the South Col in a day or so and perhaps the summit by May 1. Both Camps 1 & 2 are filled with people on their rotations. The Icefall is pretty busy these days, right on schedule. See the tracking table for the latest team locations.

Everest 2022: Weekend Update April 24 – First Rotations Begin

As we enter the last week of April, the climbing on Everest is in the full program. Climbers are all over the lower mountain from EBC to Camps 1 and 2. Sherpas are incredibly busy stocking camps. Meanwhile, on the other 8000ers, progress was stalled by weather, but still climbing underway on some others. All in all a low-drama year thus far.

Everest 2022: How Fast Can You Climb Everest?

Lhotse Face 2008

Heavy weather is stalling summit attempts across the Himalayas. On Everest, it’s time to test the Icefall, with the first climbers entering the Icefall for rotations to Camps 1 and 2. The Sherpas have said the Icefall is “easy” this year. Let’s look at why it takes two months to climb Everest or does it?

Big Picture

Lots of activities on Everest. Sherpas are ferrying loads to stock Camp 1 and 2 in the Western Cwm. Other Sherpas are fixing the ropes from Camp 2 to Camp 3 and beyond. They hope to reach the summit by Mayday. Members are reviewing basic skills and adjusting to Base Camp life. Several teams have completed their acclimation on Lobuche. Furtenbach Adventures reports in with, “News from our current Everest Expedition In the best weather our whole Classic Team with guide @luckydavewatson climbed Lobuche East. They arrive at Everest BC today.”

IMG notes progress at the High Camps: “Our Sherpa Team is continuing to work on Camp 2 and progress is being made with setting up the main kitchen and dining tents. This is a big job at Camp 2, and we use plenty of rope to anchor the tents in the likely event wind kicks up.”

Brit, Tim Mosedale is heading into the Cwm: “We’re going up on the hill for a few days so will be out of touch. We’ll have 2 nights at C1 (around 6,000m) and then 4 or 5 nights at C2 (around 6,400m) before coming back to EBC for a well deserved rest.”

Heavy snow stalled the summit attempts on Kangchunga and Annpurna where an avalanche was reported on the route, not uncommon. On the other 8000ers, teams have just arrived at their base camps, with a few climbers already climbing.

Thus far, the season is progressing as expected. No drama, thankfully.

Everest 2022: A Solemn Day of Remembrance on Everest

Many teams will not climb today, April 18, 2022, as eight years ago to the day, at 6:35 am, a small section of an ice serac released onto the Khumbu Icefall. 16 Sherpas were killed in a moment as tons of ice fell, leaving the mountain workers with few options and nowhere to hide. Today is a day to remember. Om mani Padme hung

Big Picture

A few more permits were issued over the weekend, bringing the total for all 22 peaks to 740. On Everest, they remained steady at 262 with 94 on Lhotse.  Sherpas will return to stocking high camps tomorrow, but on the other 8000ers, we may see summits tomorrow or the next day. One I’m keeping a close eye on is Dhaulagiri with Carlos Sori, 83, Sito Carcavilla, and the six Sherpas are at Camp 3 of Dhaulagiri with a solid weather forecast. Thye could summit tomorrow marking Carols’ 13th summit an 8000er, leaving on Shispanagma. There is still a lot of climbing on the ‘other’ 8000ers, with Makalu, Lhotse and Lhotse South Face, and Kangchenjunga, but heavy snowfall delays progress on Annapurna. Look for summits on most of these over the next few weeks and the serious acclimatization rotations to begin on Everest around April 19-20. #everest2022

Everest 2022: Weekend Update April 17 – First Deaths, Carlos on his Way!

Activity is strong at Everest Base Camp, with more still on the trek. The permits increased as expected this past week and will top out fairly soon. They still lag behind last year by over 100 for Everest. The fixed lines are now to Camp 2 in the Western Cwm, ready for more teams to arrive at EBC this week. We saw the first 8000er deaths of the 2022 Spring season this past week. #everest2022

Big Picture

As of April 15, 2022, the Ministry of Tourism has issued 738 total climbing permits thus far, with 262 for Everest, with 56 female climbers. The United States represents the largest country on Everest this year with 58 climbers, a spot recently ceded to India and China, with only 21 and 9 climbers, respectively. The UK comes in at 33, with Canada at 14 and Australia at ten thus far. Russia has 16 climbers on Everest this season.

Everest Base Camp is rapidly filling up with most teams reviewing basic skills and preparing for their first walk into the Icefall, a big day ahead. See the tracking table for the latest team locations.

Climbers on Dhaulagiri and Annapurna are climbing with summit pushes expected soon. Also, climbing will soon begin on Kachchenunga and Makalu.

Everest 2022: Sherpa Death on Everest

Sherpas on the Lhotse Face

A Sherpa has died in the IceFall near the Football Field. He apparently just collapsed as there was no fall, illness, or avalanche. Teams are starting to stock the higher camps with tents, food, and fuel getting ready for the first rotations. A narrative on arriving at EBC.

Big Picture

Teams on Everest have already begun the acclimatization process. It usually begins with a short trip halfway up the Khumbu Icefall to an area called, the ‘Football field.’ This is a relatively flat section, somewhat safe from avalanches from Everest’s West Shoulder. Climbers will be very slow on this first climb as they are not fully acclimatized. They will be hurting puppies! #everest2022