The rope team reached K2’s summit opening the door for the first team summit from Madison Mountaineering to top out supported by Mashabrum Expeditions for logistics. Over 100 others are in various high camps for their respective summit bids as of 4:00 am on Friday, July 22, 2022. Sadly there is a report of a death near C3 on K2.
Big Picture – The Summit Push and A Death – Update
It looks like the winds picked back up across the four 8000ers over the last 24 hours, but teams remained focused and summited GII, and K2. It will be a big next 24 to 48 hours across the 8000ers as the weather is predicted to ease. Look for multiple summits from many teams. We will see a record on K2, to be sure.
UPDATE: Afghanistan climber Ali Akber Sakhim, 34, died from altitude sickness near C3 on K2 on July 20, 2022, as Samiya Mirza tells me, adding, “Our team tried to save his life brought him down but suddenly he collapsed and passed away.” He was attempting to be the first Afghani man to summit K2.
K2 – Expect Scores of Summits
First off, kudos to the rope team from Madison Mountaineering and 8k Expeditions. Garrett Madison sent me this update on the rope team summit:
Update July 21st 10:40 PM Pakistan time: Our rope fixing team of Sherpas (Siddhi, Dorjee, Rinji) along with 2 Sherpas from the 8k team (Pasdawa & Chhring) have reached the summit of K2. We are very proud of their hard work in setting the route and leading the way. Our climbers in camp 4 have just begun their climb, hopefully reaching the top in about 8 hours, just after sunrise on the 22nd of July.
Jenn Drummond attempting to become the first female to complete the Second Seven Summits, reports in from Camp 3 on her summit push. She is with the Imagine Nepal team:
We are at our high camp3. It was a long hot day. I got hit in the face with a thick snowball someone sent down when they were down climbing. I was wearing an 02 mask, so it saved my face, just got a bloody nose. Unfortunately, we had someone die on the mountain today. The more I do this stuff, the more I realize how important it is, the company you climb with and then the actual person you climb with. It is windier than the weather predicted on both days, we have been climbing. The views have been amazing; this is one steep continuous climb uphill. I am hoping that the sun is a little kinder to us tomorrow the distance we cover seems very minimal, but the altitude and the weather turn what looks like a 30-minute hike into a 2-hour slog. It’s mind-blowing, really. I am tired and hoping my body sleeps tonight! Sending love to everyone at home! Xoxoxo Jenn
The following teams are on their push:
- 8K Expeditions (Nepal)
- Elite Expeditions (Nepal)
- Furtenbach Adventures (Austria)
- Madison Mountaineering (US)
- Mingma G’s Imagine Nepal (Nepal)
- Pioneer Adventure (Nepal)
- Seven Summits Treks (Nepal)
- Karakorum Expeditions (Pakistan)
With these teams either waiting or not providing updates as to their current position or plans:
- Adventure Pakistan (Pakistan)
- Adventure Tours Pakistan (Pakistan)
- Alpine Adventure Guide (Pakistan)
- Lela Peak Expedition (Pakistan)
- Summit Karakoram (Pakistan)
Gasherbrum II – Difficult Summits – Update
Adrian Ballinger told me his small team of four summited GII. UPDATE: “, Esteban “Topo” Mena, Matt Greving, Dorji Sherpa, and Ngima Tenzing Sherpa” They added:
The team made their first summit attempt yesterday morning, but decided to turn around at 7,200m because of deep snow and challenging conditions – opting to get some more rest at high camp and make a second summit bid. They knew it would be a hard fight to reach the summit, but they were determined to give it another go.
Beginning at 10:30 pm, they worked through a long and cold night of breaking trail. These moments of resilience and courage are what we come away with when the expedition is all said and done – failing, adjusting, and pushing through adversity to reach success. We’ve found the mountains to be the best teachers, and Gasherbrum II has certainly taught our team a thing or two about trusting the process.
The team has made it down to Camp 1 safely and will wake up bright and early tomorrow for their descent to Base Camp.
Also, Pioneer Adventure‘s Sanu Sherpa led client Naoko Watanabe to the summit making his 28th summit for the 14 8000ers. While it’s not clear if he’s made the true summits (I guess we have to add this comment every time someone claims multiple 8000ers, now,) if so, he has become the first person to summit each 8000ers twice.
Blue Sky Treks & Tours said they had a client with two Sherpas summit GII: Romanian Adrian Laza with Sherpas Sherpas Tenjing and Chhangba. Seven Summits Treks said they had one client with two Sherpas summit GI but listed no names.
But it looks like big winds slowed down Jagged Globe:
The team climbed from Camp 2 (6550m) to Camp 3 (6985m) this morning (21 July). Strong winds prevented the planned 0300hrs start and they eventually left at 0500hrs. Conditions were excellent and they arrived at 0800hrs. Despite the windy conditions a few strong climbers made the first G2 summit of the season today. Several groups will join forces tomorrow and more than 30 climbers will be aiming for the summit. The weather forecast looks good, although last night’s winds were not predicted to be as strong as the climbers experienced. Everyone is hoping for low winds and favourable conditions tonight.
Climb On!
Alan
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One thought on “K2 Summer 2022: K2 Summits and One Death”
Each year I piggyback on Alan’s reports and I am transported to the mountains. Whatever reason people climb requires forgiveness from those who don’t. Thank you to all.
Joe Power
Ireland
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