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Jan 042017
Everest 2017: Team Locations and Headlines

Alan Arnette’s Everest 2017 coverage and annual coverage is based on my own Everest and K2 summits and climb experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest. I am home in Colorado this season after a climbing accident in February that stopped me from a planned Dhaulagiri climb this spring. A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who joins the Alzheimer’s Prevention Registry or makes a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s nonprofits. HEADLINE: Normal Season, Windy, 6 Deaths, 600++ Summits See continue reading

May 272017
Everest 2017: Weekend Update May 27

This season had more twists and intrigue than a U.S. Presidential election. While not completely over, this past week brought a strong end for almost all the teams on both sides of Everest. Many dreams came true, like that of my climbing buddy Jim Davidson (who is already back home in Colorado!), and for others they set a difficult goal but were disappointed like Ralf Dujmovits. Perhaps the strangest twist of the week, or season, came from the report of four bodies found at the South Col. Then it was said they made a mistake but came back and said there are bodies, just continue reading

May 252017
Everest 2017: Who is left? - updated

It has been a season of wild swings from the weather to information from the mountain. But it’s not over. Let’s look at who is left and where they are. Heavy snow appears to be arriving on 28 May, so there is a sense of urgency for those still heading higher. UPDATE: Summits thus far Saturday 27 May: South: 11+ summits Ferran Latorre – Summit per his tracker, used Os late in push Yannik Graziani – “”Too much snowfall, too much wind, you freeze on the spot … I turned around at 8 500m, too risky without oxygen, now safe on the south pass.” continue reading

May 252017
Everest 2017: South Col Dead Body Report was Wrong

The same people that reported 4 bodies – 2 Sherpas, 1 foreign woman and 1 foreign male – were found at the South Col now say they got it all wrong. I spoke live with both key sources last night. Managing Director at Seven Summit Treks, Mingma Sherpa, who provided the the information to Himalayan Times reporter Rajan Pokhrel who wrote the story. Both now say it was a mistake and were no 4 new bodies. I also confirmed with another Nepali operator Navin Trital plus long time Everest climber and guide, Willie Benegas of Benegas Brothers contacted me from the South Col and said no new bodies. He said he checked every tent. Too Many Bodies? continue reading

May 242017
Everest 2017:  Climbing Continues - Updated

The last teams on both sides are moving higher and higher and some going for the summit tonight. IMG reports around 5:00 am Nepal time on Thursday 25 May. They have probably over 20 on this push. The lead climbers are getting close to the summit, and others are getting close to the South Summit. So far so good! The Benegas Brothers are also on their push: It’s 02:50 here, and all the team have already made it to the balcony, nearly half way to the South Summit, and where the South East Ridge takes a left about half way up to continue reading

May 232017
Everest 2017: 4 Found Dead in Tent at South Col - Updated

A horrible tragedy today on Everest. 2 foreigners and 2 Sherpa “guides” were found dead in the same tent at the South Col, 8000 meters. Rajan Pokhrel broke the story a few minutes ago on the Himalayan Times It was very windy and many teams choose to stay in their tents and not go for the summit. Update 2: Sources, reporters and officials now say report was wrong Update 1: as usual with stories like this,  differing information will emerge. However, my main points remain the same. It doesn’t matter if one person died, four or 40. There are long overdue changes in the way Everest is guided and climbed. I will break my continue reading

May 232017
Everest 2017: Wind Returns with Vengeance, Costly Body Retrievals

There were summits early morning of 23 May, but it may not have been the best choice to push it. Teams turned back, some never left camp and those who made said it was difficult. Meteorologist Chris Tomer told me “full on Jet Stream on the summit”. He advised his client, Ricardo Pena, to stay at the South Col, which he did on 23 May. Meanwhile the family of a climber who died over the weekend are willing to put more lives at risk to get their loved one home. And the admired traverse is not what was advertised. North Gets Hit Big winds continue reading

May 222017
Everest 2017: What Really Happened to the Hillary Step

As we wait for more summits this week, let take a look at one of the most talked about stories from Everest 2017 is the fate of the Hillary Step. First reported as “gone” now Nepal officials are saying it’s just fine, just covered with snow. For those outside the climbing community, and for many inside, this seems like a silly discussion as we all know mountains move, change, grow and collapse all the time. So what if the Hillary Step changed?   Latest News – 23 May early morning in Nepal Nobukazu Kuriki has left Camp 2 to ascend to the West Ridge continue reading

May 222017
Everest 2017: Huge Wave 3 with a Traverse and Speed Summit

As I posted in almost real-time, there were many summits on Monday morning on both sides and there were some surprises! Here is a quick update of summits and information not in my last post North Updates: The Russian team 7 Summits Club lead by legendary Alexander Abramov put more on the summit. I have lost count but believe it is over 20, maybe 30, including support: Like an hour ago, said Alexander Abramov, today, 22 May at 4:30 am Nepal time the whole team reached the summit of Everest. Successful descent guys! At 6 am Moscow time all were already in 8300 continue reading

May 212017
Everest 2017: More Summits, Rescues and Dots - Updated

Monday morning 22 May, aka Wave 3, was as big as we expected with well over 100 new summits on both sides of Everest. The weather remains good for most teams. The body of missing Indian climber was found taking the death toll to six on both sides in 2017. With a full week to go, I estimate well over 350 total summits on both sides and perhaps as many as 150 more to come. This is a rundown of the results. I apologize for not mentioning every name so click on the links to see them by team. Also, continue reading