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2018/19 Winter K2: Climbers Enroute, Controversy in Antarctic, Colorado Perfect

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Dec 292018
2018/19 Winter K2: Climbers Enroute, Controversy in Antarctic, Colorado Perfect

The K2 teams are on their way to Pakistan for their winter attempts but not without problems already. K2: Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan Team First up is an international group, made up of climbers from Kazakhstan, Russia and Kyrgyzstan. They are already having financial issues according to the website Russian Climb and reduced the team size from 11 to 7: Despite comprehensive efforts, the guys could not find money for all originally claimed eleven members. Therefore, the team will go to Karakorum in a reduced composition. There will be seven of them.. Vassiliy Pivtsov is still the expedition leader and Basil Pivtsov (Kazakhstan) continue reading

Aug 282017
Staying Safe on Colorado's Deadly 14ers

2017 is proving to be a deadly summer in the Colorado mountains above 14,000 feet aka the 14ers. Thus far 8 10 now 11 as of 4 September 2017 people have died across the state. Hiking and climbing in the Colorado Rocky Mountains is supposed to be fun, not deadly. Most accidents and death happen when a person lacks the experience or exercises poor judgment. Take your time, learn the basic, follow the known rules and have fun. Certainly things can happen beyond your control as I experienced earlier this year when a gust of wind knocked me over at 11,000 continue reading

Jun 302017
Broken Leg Update: Five Months Out

Dr. Hale entered the examining room, my X-Ray was on the viewing screen. It has been 20 weeks since my “incident”. He shook my hand and began … I’ve been a bit nervous about this next appointment. My leg continues to chatter like a hungry kitten. Every now and then it roars like a lion. But we have built a solid relationship based on mutual respect and trust – that is my leg and I, oh and also with Dr. Hale. However, now five months out, I’m eager to see faster progress, to stand up without extra effort, to walk continue reading

May 052017
Broken Leg Update: Three Months Out

On February 10, 2017 while training for the 8000 meter peak, Dhaulagiri, a sudden wind gust estimated near 100 mph swept me off my feet and into a talus field on a simple walk up mountain of Twin Sisters Peak, 11,4327′, in Rocky Mountain National Park near Estes Park, Colorado. I described the entire incident in my post Broken Leg: I don’t want to be in the Rocks. Now 12 weeks to the day after incident, I want to provide another update. The Injury When I was slammed into the rocks near 11,000 feet that Friday afternoon, my lower right leg was broken in continue reading

Apr 072017
Broken Leg Update: Two Months Out

I broke my leg in four places and smashed my nasal cavity eight weeks ago today when a wind gust shoved me violently off my feet and into a rock field on Twin Sisters Peak. Jim Davidson, SAR teams plus Rangers from RMNP demonstrating the highest levels of knowledge, professionalism and compassion got me to hospitals where after two surgeries, I am now recovering. My last update was four weeks ago so time for another update. I am physically healing, yet I struggle with dark thoughts.  As I fall asleep many nights, I hear the phrase “I don’t want to be in the rocks.” When I continue reading

Mar 102017
Broken Leg Update: One Month Out

It was four weeks ago to the minute that a wind gust tossed me around like a piece of paper on Twin Sisters Peak. A heroic effort by my climbing partner, Jim Davidson, SAR teams plus Rangers from RMNP got me to hospitals where after two surgeries, I am now recovering at home. Wow, what a journey. I have had plenty of time to reflect on the experience but I’m not finished processing the event. I still have trouble sleeping and hear the phrase “I don’t want to be in the rocks.” in my mind at random times. And I am continue reading

Mar 012017
Broken Leg: I Don't Want to be in the Rocks

A quick story for those with busy lives. Two friends, Alan Arnette and Jim Davidson, were hiking along a path when the wind blew Alan over and he broke his leg. Jim called 911 and a bunch of people came and got Alan. Today Alan is home and is getting better. The End. While that may be what happened, there are a few more details I (Alan) can add. 🙂 The trail we were on was like a well worn shoe. We were training for something big, much bigger – 18,000 feet higher and on the other side of the world. With little continue reading

Death on Colorado’s Longs Peak

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Oct 032016
Death on Colorado's Longs Peak

Over the weekend the popular Colorado 14, 000 foot mountain, Longs Peak, saw the first death of 2016. According to rangers at Rocky Mountain National Park,  the victim was a 61 year old man from Greeley, Colorado. He was on a section called The Narrows when he slipped on ice and fell approximately 100 to 150 feet. Other climbers used their cell phones to contact park rangers The rangers were flown to the summit of Longs Peak via helicopter and reached the man’s body at approximately 4 p.m.  His body was recovered by a long line helicopter operation at 5:40 p.m. continue reading

Aug 242015
Colorado 14er: Crestone Peak to Needle Traverse

Climbing in Colorado is always special. On August 22, 2015, my buddy, Andy Westmeyer and I climbed two of the more difficult 14ers via a traverse: Crestone Peak to Crestone Needle. Both of the 14,000′ peaks have difficult reputations and the traverse, all above 13,600′ amplifies it. We hiked into South Colony Lake Friday night, set up camp and set the alarm for 2:30 am. The wind was blowing pretty hard so we hit the snooze alarm for an hour and left camp at 4 am for Crestone Peak. We crossed Broken hand Pass as the sun was rising, descended to Cottonwood continue reading

Aug 092015
Colorado 14,000' Mountain: Capitol Peak

Summited one of the more difficult Colorado 14, 000′ mountains, Capitol Peak for the third time yesterday. This time with Jim Davidson via the Northeast Ridge route We were rained on during the 6 mile approach and again early in the night, but skies began to clear as we approached the crux, a 100′ section aptly called the Knife Edge. Capitol is considered one the harder 14er due to it’s remoteness, high class 4 climbing requiring hands and legs and extreme exposure meaning a fall would be fatal. We summited with four other people in great conditions and good time. continue reading