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Jul 262013
Going Through a Cave to Reach Longs Peak Summit

It is not often you go through a cave to reach a mountain summit. But I recently did just that on Longs Peak. I guess I have to say Longs Peak in Colorado’s Rocky Mountain National Park is my favorite 14er given I have climbed on it over 125 times reaching the summit on 33 occasions. I’m not an overly technical climber and use Longs as training for my higher altitude climbs so it was a to explore a new route (for me) with some good friends on July 23, 2013. The Northwest Couloir was first documented by Enos Mills continue reading

Jul 032013
Colorado's Roof: Holy Cross, Snowmass and Pyramid Peaks

I had a busy week June 24, 2013 climbing three of Colorado’s major 14, and 000 foot mountains. I have climbed all 58 of the 14ers but wanted to go back to each of these for different reasons. I hope you enjoy the videos. Holy Cross via the Halo Ridge I summited Colorado’s Mt. of the Holy Cross, doctor 14,005′ on June 24, 2013 via the Halo Ridge.  The Halo Ridge is not the standard route as it requires substantial rock scrambling and a long ridge climb of 2 miles above 13,000 feet. I descended using the normal North Ridge continue reading

Jun 172013
Little Bear-Blanca Great Traverse

Colorado has 58 mountains over 14, salve 000 feet. Within this grouping many peaks have ridges that connect them but only four are deemed worthy to be be called great. On June 14th, 2013, I completed the last of these, the Little Bear – Blanca Traverse. In my opinion it is clearly the most difficult. First I climbed Little Bear, 14,037′ via the rare West Ridge direct route with partners Tom and Barry. This was not the normal Hourglass route. I then continued solo across the Little Bear-Blanca Traverse to summit Blanca Peak, 14,345’. It was an extreme day with continue reading

Jun 082013
Climbing a Classic: Longs Peak

Longs Peak standing at 14, 259 feet/4346m is the highest mountain in Colorado’s Rocky Mountain National Park. It is my base for training. There are over 100 routes on Longs, most on the extremely technical Diamond, which is one of the premier rock climbing faces in the world. However two routes dominate most of the traffic: the Keyhole route and at a distant second, the Loft route. What makes Longs so special is the opportunity to gain over a mile in vertical altitude and experience a wide variety of conditions. I summited Longs Peak on June 6th for the 30th continue reading

Sep 072012
A Look at the Colorado 14ers

This weekend I will be on a special climb of a 14, look 000 foot Colorado mountain, Handies Peak in the San Juan Range. I have already climbed this one but this time it will be with my good friend and 14er buddy, Robert LeClair. This will mark his completion of climbing all 58 of the 14ers, a goal he set 14 years ago. So with this occasion I thought it was be a good time to take a look at the hills that serve as my playground, training course and source of immense pleasure. What is a 14er? Colorado continue reading

Jun 122012
The Colorado High Park Fire - A Personal Perspective

The fear of anyone living in the mountains is fire. While there are many ways to protect your home from the onslaught of a raging wave of fire, click sometimes there is nothing you can do. This past weekend, the residents of Northern Colorado saw such a fire develop and it continues today, 4 days later. The High Park Fire has gained notoriety and priority due to the explosive size and location next to an area of 250,000 people. Started by a lightening strike deep in the Roosevelt Forest, it started as a smolder but soon grew to 2 acres, continue reading

Gerry Roach Interview: Update to the Colorado 14er Guide Book

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Feb 152011
Gerry Roach Interview: Update to the Colorado 14er Guide Book

If you have ever climbed a Colorado 14, and 000 foot mountain the odds are you used a guide book or perhaps an internet site to research your climb. Well, it is also highly likely you used some of Gerry Roach’s famous research. His famous guide book simply called Colorado’s Fourteeners: from hikes to climbs is the premier guide book for all things 14ers describing 250 routes in sufficient detail for most people to make the summit. Now he just released the 3rd edition of his famous book and I wanted to ask him about it. In total, s he continue reading

Sep 252010
A Tough summer in the Western High Country

Any article about death on a mountain is difficult to write. I am concerned about getting the facts wrong, stuff perhaps offending family and friends. However, it serves a purpose of exploring the reason for incident and reminding everyone that mountains can be deadly. The source year after year is the American Alpine Club’s – Accidents in North American Mountaineering published annually to members. This article is a partial overview of the tragic events thus far in 2010. Many people associate death in the mountains with the well publicized events on the big climbs like Everest or K2. But each continue reading

Aug 212010
Finishing the 14ers; What’s Next?

For not being a goal, the satisfaction I feel for just completing climbing all 54 Colorado mountains over 14, 000′ is deep. As I posted last week, I went to southwest Colorado’s San Juan range to climb Windom Peak (14082?), Sunlight Peak (14059?), Mt. Eolus (14083?) and North Eolus (14039?). I was fortunate to have my regular partners, Patrick and Robert along and some new friends, Anne and Kevin plus John Little from Houston, Texas. There are new trip reports for all the climbs on my main site. Mt. Eolus and North Eolus Windom Peak Sunlight Peak The plan was continue reading

Aug 112010
The Final 14ers

Sometimes a goal is not a goal until you near the end. That is my story for climbing all of Colorado’s Mountains over 14, 000 feet. My first 14er was Longs Peak in 1992, then a few more in 2002. I got serious after meeting Patrick Vall and Robert LeClair. They both wanted to climb all the 14ers and I needed the training for my Himalayan climbs throughout the decade. Thus one by one, we started climbing them all. This weekend I will travel to an area named the Chicago Basin and climb three of the ranked 14ers thus competing continue reading