Everest 2024: Interview with Uphill Athlete’s Founder Steve House

You know you’ve made your name in the climbing world when Reinhold Messner calls you “the best high-altitude climber in the world.” Today, Steve runs one of the most successful broad-based coaching services. Uphill Athlete, founded by Steve House and Scott Johnston in 2014, has become synonymous with all things mountain sports, from trail running and mountaineering to ski racing. I caught up with Steve for a wide-ranging Podcast.

We discussed how he became a world-class climber and researched the first ascent route long before anything like Google Earth was available to the public. We discussed the basics of training for big climbs like Denali or Everest and the role of nutrition in a training program. I explore how he manages risk on extremely difficult climbs like Eiger’s North Face or Nanga Parbart’s Central Pillar on the Rupal Face. We wrap up by discussing the current state of the climbing industry, commercialization, luxuries, the competency of climbers and guides and where the industry may be headed.

Many of you are already familiar with their Training for the New Alpinism and The New Alpinism Training Log, books that have become the modern-day equivalent of Freedom of the Hills, but for training.

For 21 years, Steve was a professional climber, and in 1999, he became the ninth American to achieve IFMGA certification. Steve’s most famous ascent may be the Central Pillar of the Rupal Face with Vince Anderson. Still, he has compiled an impressive list of first ascents and new routes in Alaska, the Canadian Rockies, the Alps, and the Karakoram. Steve was an athlete-ambassador for Patagonia, Grivel, La Sportiva, Zeal Optics, and Coros Watches. He retired from professional climbing at the end of 2020 to dedicate himself to family and Uphill Athlete.

I like this quote from Steve:

The fact is, there is no magic key to help you open the door of endurance training. There are no six simple steps you can follow, no guru who can take you there, and no diet that can turn you into Ueli Steck. There are, however, 100 years of history and a well-understood intellectual framework behind the theories and techniques that apply to the full spectrum of endurance sports. Today our mission is to train, teach, and connect all mountain athletes. We hope you learn something, but, above all, we hope you will go outside and apply what you learn to the goals and dreams that brought you here in the first place.

Steve lives in Austria with his two sons. Use this Uphill link to learn more about Steve and Uphill.

Summit Coah is Now an Uphill Affiliate Partner

Here’s the video podcast version of the Steve House Interview:

The Podcast on alanarnette.com

You can listen to #everest2024 podcasts on Spotify, Apple Podcast, Pocket Casts, RadioPublic, Anchor, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast platform.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

Summit Coach

Schedule a Free Call

If you dream of climbing mountains but are unsure how to start or reach your next level, from a Colorado 14er to Rainier, Everest, or even K2, we can help. Summit Coach is a consulting service that helps aspiring climbers worldwide achieve their goals through a personalized set of consulting services based on Alan Arnette’s 30 years of high-altitude mountain experience and 30 years as a business executive. Please see our prices and services on the Summit Coach website.