After a few good days when the winds ignored the forecasts, they both came back into alignment. High winds now and expected for tomorrow.
South Summit Turnaround
Mountain clearly in charge Our team turned around at the south summit due to building wind – disappointed but safe at C4
While it is heartbreaking to turn back at the South Summit, given it is under two more hours and about 500 vertical feet to the summit, this is not all that unusual. The winds come mostly from the west so when climbing from the South Col, they are blocked, until you reach the South Summit – and then it can become a hurricane. So turning back is the right decision to avoid severe frostbite or worse.
Once this happens it is extremely rare to try again as the climbers are very tired, supplemental oxygen is low and probably the weather that stopped this push, is still around the next day.
Tough break for these guys but the right and courageous decision.
I cannot confirm this but it was rumored that a large Chinese team with Seven Summits Treks was supposed to head up and summit about now, but there is no update.
Alos, the north side seems to have been quiet on Wednesday the 17th, but there are always independents climbing on both sides we never hear about.
UPDATE: 7 Summits Club is heading for summits in the window most others are targeting:
Today our second team enters the ascent from the base camp. With a view to rise from 22 may. In its composition janusz kochanski. Goes to a new world record for the duration of climbing at all 7 Peaks on 129 days. Our first team today, slept on the northern saddle and today goes into camp 7800. Ascension Set for 19 may. The weather is great. The condition of the route is good. Excellent condition of the participants.
More as it develops.
Memories are Everything