Click for site home
The Blog on alanarnette.com
Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
May 212018
 
Everest 2018: Summit Wave 8 - Recap, Hillary Step Photo - Update 2

Update 2: Teams are near the summit in what is reported as excellent conditions Alpine Ascents: 3 guides, 8 members, 8 Sherpas- names on the link. Hello everyone, team reported that the entire team is standing on the summit of Everest, as ben mention it was a great summit day not to many peoples, no wind and sunny. Team starting to summit from 6:27 till 7:28 they are going to take photos and starting to decent to south cool soon. Thank you for staying with us. Will be updating from camp for tonight. IMG had 5 members with 7 Sherpas summit continue reading

Everest 2018: Dead on Everest Japanese Alpinist Nobukazu Kuriki

 Comments Off on Everest 2018: Dead on Everest Japanese Alpinist Nobukazu Kuriki
May 202018
 
Everest 2018: Dead on Everest Japanese Alpinist Nobukazu Kuriki

Stunning news that Japanese climber Nobukazu Kuriki was found dead at Camp 2 on the Nepal side of Everest on the Standard route. The Himalayan Times reports that Sherpas found him at C2. I had just reported that he was feeling better after a cough and was prepared to go higher on an unspecified route. He had struggled in 2018 with a high fever and a cough. Personally, I am shocked as I always found his climbs inspirational. Update: Its now being reported that he reached C3 on the Lhotse Face and began to have problems with coughing and pain. Intermittent radio contact continue reading

Everest 2018: Summit Wave 8 – Winds Picking Up

 Comments Off on Everest 2018: Summit Wave 8 – Winds Picking Up
May 202018
 
Everest 2018: Summit Wave 8  - Winds Picking Up

As I posted a few hours ago, there are several teams moving to the summit of Everest both on the Tibet and the Nepal sides. Also to Lhotse. Reports are now coming in of strong wind gusts. I asked Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solutions for his view on what was happening: Doesn’t look jet related to me so the gusts will pass.  Could be a 3 to 6 hour spike.  Then much lighter into Tuesday.  My best guess is some spin in the middle of the atmosphere. In more general terms, the best summit window of the season is winding down.  continue reading

May 202018
 
Everest 2018: Summit Wave 8 - Update 2

Update 2: Moinz/Benegas summited Lhotse a day after getting Everest. This is the 4th 800er for Matt: Cho Oyu, Makalu, Everest and Lhotse. Update 1: Reports are now coming in of strong wind gusts. I asked Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solutions for his view on what was happening: Doesn’t look jet related to me so the gusts will pass.  Could be a 3 to 6 hour spike.  Then much lighter into Tuesday.  My best guess is some spin in the middle of the atmosphere. In more general terms, the best summit window of the season is winding down.  If the summit continue reading

May 202018
 
Everest 2018: Summit Wave 7 Recap - Another Death, Summits over Obstacles

By this past week’s standard Sunday 20 May was a real slow day on Everest with just a handful of summit, around 50! But those who did had to work a bit harder than the rest to reach that spot. Also, don’t forget to read the Weekend Update for this past week that was filled with oxygen drama, deaths, records and over 400 summits! Common Sense Over Silly Rules Matt Moniz and Willie Benegas had to deal with over a week of unknowns to see if they were even allowed to attempt to summit. After they skied down the Lhotse continue reading

May 192018
 
Everest 2018: Weekend Update May 20

A lot to cover from this week! Last weekend I started the update with “… this upcoming week will be like riding a wild horse. It appears, the winds have finally calmed and the jet stream has moved away … Hold on tight, its summit season!” Well was it ever! There were summits every day of the week and it looks like it may keep going until the base camps are empty or the monsoons begin, whichever comes first. But as everyone who follows Everest knows, its the weather that has the last say and it bears a close eye continue reading

May 192018
 
Everest 2018: Summit Wave 6 Recap, Wave 7 Underway - Update 1

UPDATE 1: Matt Moniz and Willie Benegas had to slow down and stop because they were climbing too fast otherwise they wold miss the sunrise!!!!  he messaged “We went way too fast, we are burrowed in at south summit waiting for the sun inr.ch/5CEYVJJ – Matt Moniz” They waited an hour for sunrise and summited per Matt’s Tracker at  4:49 am. Also the first Greeks to summit Kang. Another good day on Mount Everest. This weather window has been about as good as it gets on Everest. Yes, there has been a bit of wind now and then but overall, it’s looking continue reading

Everest 2018: Summit Wave 6 Underway

 Comments Off on Everest 2018: Summit Wave 6 Underway
May 182018
 
Everest 2018: Summit Wave 6 Underway

Here we go for the fifth day in a row for Everest summits. Looks like the summit teams may have several inches of snow over the next three days but the winds remain manageable. We’ll see what really happens. Several other teams are staged at the South Col and C3 on the North for early Saturday 19 May summits. Many are climbing NOW! Adventure Consultants is climbing and already to the Balcony.  Matt Moniz and Willie Benegas at at C3 Friday looking to summit Everest on the 20th and Lhotse on the 21st.  You can follow Willie’s GPS tracker or Matt’s. continue reading

May 182018
 
Everest 2018: Summit Wave 5 Recap - 100+ Summits, Oxygen Update

It was day four of Summit Central on #Everest2018 with more than 100 combined summits from both sides. Again the weather was holding as it has been but a bit of snow is expected over the weekend up high. Oxygen Update More Oxygen Problems – On South Now, Alpenglow going back up On their summit push, Kenton Cool and Ben Fogel also experienced regulator problems identical to Alpenglow’s on the Tibet side. Ben Fogel said on Instagram: The only blight on the Everest expedition has been a major problem with the Oxygen delivery system. At 8000m plus most people need supplemental continue reading

May 172018
 
Everest 2018: Matt Moniz and Willie Benegas Cleared to Climb

Calling their skiing down the Lhotse Face without a ski permit a “a very innocent mistake” Department of Tourism’s director general Dinesh Bhattarai has given his blessing to 20-year-old American Matt Moniz and 49-year-old Argentine Willie Benegas for their Everest and Lhotse climbs. They hope to go this weekend, weather permitting. If successful, this will be Benegas’s 12th summit of Everest and Moniz’s first after being stopped twice before by ice serac release onto the Icefall in 2014 and the 2015 earthquake.  Since May 7, the pair have been living under a veil of threats. They had read in the Nepal newspapers that continue reading

%d bloggers like this: