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Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Apr 192019
 

We now have members of several teams sleeping in the Western Cwm on the Nepal side. Over in Tibet, Sherpas are sleeping at the Intermediate camp as they prepare to begin building ABC. Looks like members will begin their two day journey to ABC in a couple of days.

Headlines

Members aka clients aka climbers aka people are starting to get into the groove. I love this post from Chad Gaston who is doing a great job with his blog. Witty writing and great pictures – a must add to your daily reading list. He climbing with Madison Mountaineering:

Some other fun facts on the mountain are:

1. Snoring. Because of the weather everyone is a bit stuffy or out of breath from the altitude so everyone snores. We all bring heavy duty ear plugs or in my instance I put my head phones in and crank Frank Sinatra’s greatest hits. I am normally asleep by the second song “Chicago”.

2. HAF. High Altitude Flatulence. (If you are shy or disturbed by bodily function, mountain climbing is not for you!) The digestive track really starts acting funny when you get over the 10 to 12,000 ft. At night as we all climb in our tents the era of the big brass bands are reborn. Our camp could compete with any brass band in New Orleans 🤣😵🤢. But it’s just how it goes up here!

Another beautiful picture that is courtesy of Jason Baldy climbing with Furtenbach Adventures

View from CBC. Courtesy of Jason Baldy

And a stunning shot from Elia Saikaly on the Nepal side as evening begins. He is documenting four Arab women attempting to summit Everest. They are with Madison Mountaineering.

First Day in the Cwm

The first day in the Western Cwm shocks the senses. The largest memory most people have is how damn hot it is!!  Yes HOT! 🙂 The standard schedule is to climb through the Icefall to Camp 1, spend at least one night with some teams spending three. Then they move up to Camp 2 where they try to spend at least two more nights. The time and distances fool everyone as the distance is short, the times are long, especially the first time, but the altitude now gets serious:

  • Base Camp: 17,500’/5334m
  • C1: 19,500’/5943m – 3-6 hours, 1.62 miles
  • C2: 21,000’/6400m – 2-3 hours, 1.74 mile

Tomorrow I’ll post a narrative on what’s its like to go through the Icefall for the first time and sleeping at Camp 1.

Memories

On personal note, I was thrilled to get this picture today from Nepal Base Camp of Kami Sherpa and Ossie Freire. Of course Kami has been with me from Everest to K2, attempts on Lhotse plus last October’s Island Peak summit. I just met Ossie in January when we climb volcanoes in Ecuador. Both are with Mike Hammil’s Climbing the Seven Summits team. Ossie is guiding one Everest member and I’m not sure who Kami is guiding but both members are in great hands! Well done by CTSS in getting two of the most competent guides in the world.

Finally, a sad day yesterday when officials declared the three missing climbers on Canada’s Howse Peak were assumed deceased after being hit by a huge avalanche. These guys represented some of the most imaginative, ambitious and skilled climbers on the planet. They will be missed by many. Cory Richards had a nice post:

In Memoriam of David Lama, Jess Roskelley, and Hansjörg Auer // What’s newsworthy here isn’t the tragedy that’s unfolded. What’s truly newsworthy is the caliber of athlete and human these young men were. The tragedy of their early passing is only compounded by the interest and drama surrounding this event. The mountains cast long shadows, but it’s important that we don’t dwell there. Rather, celebrate the accomplishments of the athletes who venture there while they live. Now is a time for reverence and quiet reflection reserved for the families and friends in the wake of their untimely passing.

Om mane padme hung.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything