It seems the Chinese are playing havoc with the more ambitious Everest climbers this spring. Not content with a “simple” summit, several climbers wanted to do various forms of traversing Everest. This involves climbing from one side to the summit and then down to the other side’s base camp. Some climbers wanted to then return thus a double traverse.
It is now clear the Chinese are not issuing permits for such climbs probably based on their desire to keep a successful double traverse in reserve for a national climber.
However, not to be denied, two former Everest summiters, David Liano and Bill Burke, will be attempting what they call a double ascent this spring. Bill posted this on his website:
My current plan is to complete a double ascent of Mt. Everest, which has also never been done: ascend and descend on the North side in Tibet, travel to Nepal and then ascend and descend on the South side. I will be joined by my good climbing friend from Mexico, 30-year old David Liano. David is a highly accomplished mountaineer, having climbed the Seven Summits and summitted Mt. Everest twice from the South side. Mingma, who was my Sherpa last year, and is now part of my family, will be my Sherpa again this year on this unguided climb.
I have chosen to climb the North side first for three reasons: (1) if I am able to make only one summit (e.g., because of weather or fatigue), I want it to be on a North side climb since I have already climbed Everest from the South side, (2) generally Everest teams on the North side summit earlier in the season than teams on the South side and (3) I will be able to acclimatize on the North side without having to go through the deadly Khumbu Icefall three times (the North side does not have an icefall).
There had been two other traverse plans previously announced. Gavin Turner who wanted to complete the never before accomplished double traverse and and another from Australian Andrew Lock, who has competed all 14 8000m summits. Andrew wanted to do traverse north to south without supplemental oxygen. This to be his last climb of his multi-year project. I have no official word from Andrew as to his plans but Gavin has now switched to Annapurna and still hopes to attempt the Double one day.
Bill and David will be climbing with Asian Trekking. I wish all these climbers the of luck on all their efforts.
Climb On!
Alan
4 thoughts on “No Everest Traverses in 2010”
And if they dare to do the 2ble traverse is obviouslly to impress themselves rather than the whole climbing community.
If they’re doing it simply to “impress themselves”, then why do they announce it to the whole world?
I climb too, and my family is really the only ones who know or even care what I do. I never announce to my co-workers what I’m doing, and I don’t think they really care if I did!
I know David and he is not the kind of guy that goes around saying his accomplished summits EVER. He is humble and he is repects every mountain he climbs…
That’s your opinion, and you’re entitled to it. I’ve crossed paths with Liano on a mountain once, and I don’t agree with your assessment. A couple other climbers on my trip would agree with me. I’ll keep it at that….
And that, my totally lost and disoriented commenter Wade Nichols, is a reason to admire and applause a high quality climber such as David.
Lost and disoriented? I think you’re the one who needs a few hits from the oxygen tank!
Totally agree with Neil!! I am a climber and in the mountain there is no biggest mistake than showing pride and not humble to face such a challenge. And if they dare to do the 2ble traverse is obviouslly to impress themselves rather than the whole climbing community. I know David and he is not the kind of guy that goes around saying his accomplished summits EVER. He is humble and he is repects every mountain he climbs… And that, my totally lost and disoriented commenter Wade Nichols, is a reason to admire and applause a high quality climber such as David. It’s a petty that small-brain people are around having no idea of what represents Mt. Everest to any climber in the globe. With or without Sherpas. That is a personal decision…
Totally disagree with the above. I’m not a climber but have taken great interest in biographies and documentaries relating to Everest and Himalaya. Without exception the Sherpas are given equal, if not more credit, than the Western climbers.
There is no shame or lack of accomplishment climbing with Sherpas; indeed this reflects good sense, respect for the mountains and for the abilities of the Sherpas themselves. Why not give talks etc afterwards. I have found these accounts an inspiration – maybe one day……
David is a highly accomplished mountaineer, having climbed the Seven Summits and summitted Mt. Everest twice from the South side. Mingma, who was my Sherpa last year, and is now part of my family, will be my Sherpa again this year on this unguided climb.
Huh? If these guys are such “highly accomplished mountaineers”, why do they need a Sherpa to hold their hands?
This sounds like the typical attitude where the Western guys with the $$$$ get all the credit for the climb, go out and write a tell all book about their “accomplishments”, give “slide shows” at the Explorers Club in Manhattan, and then show how “sensitive” they are by making a few references to “their” Sherpa……
If they want to impress REALLY impress the climbing community, these two guys should do it ALL alone, no hand holding from Mingma Sherpa!
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