Click for site home
The Blog on
Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
May 172011
Lhotse Face

Lhotse Face

Well, we have slipped our summit day by one day to May 21st. We receive our weather report around 8:00 PM daily and once again after most of us had gone to bed, the report showed very high winds localized at Camp 3 for the time we would be there.

So in consultation with IMG headquarters, the decision was made to stay at C2 another day. Meanwhile it appears over 100 climbers made their way to C3 today based on different forecasts or choosing to accept the risks.

As usual, there are many teams still here at C2 including Adventure Consultants and Himex; both went up today. However, Dave Hahn, well known US Everest Guide with 13 summits is now targeting the same date as us. I met Dave’s member, 16 year-old Sarah, the other day. She was so excited but has since stopped her climb. Can you imagine the memories she now has?

I was fine with our decision especially after a difficult night at C3 only last week with harsh winds. Also, I have personally seen many climbers this year with frostbite or blindness from high winds. 2011 had been a very difficult weather year.

In spite of this delay, this summit schedule is actually ideal for me with one night at C1, then 2 nights at C2 before climbing to C3 and the South Col. It gives me time to rest and try to keep the calories going. In fact, I just finished 660 calories of cashews and have continued my midnight chocolate habit!

So, again, we go to bed thinking of leaving for C3 at 3:00AM with the goal of leaving the South Col on Friday night, May 20 and summiting the morning of May 21st, Nepal time.

Climb On!
Memories are Everything

Comments on/from Facebook

  23 Responses to “Weather Delays Summit to May 21”


    Alan, my brother Matt and I are pulling for you! We’re looking forward to climbing Elbrus with you in August… make it up safely!


    Watching your Spot, seeing you climb ever closer… Alan, wishing you a safe summit and a safe return.



    Keep safe, enjoy the climb – and the view.



    Dear Alan , It doesn”t matter whether get to top of the mountain , it how you carry yourself on the mountain , you have already show that Az is a really bad that what counts and process is being made now days because of you Good Luck Jim and Karen


    Good luck. Love the updates and with IMG I am sure you are in safe hands.


    We are all holding our breathing and counting the minutes. Stay strong, Alan.


    Good luck Alan! Following your every step here in Pennsylvania, praying for your safety and success. Climb hard, climb strong, climb safe. You can do it! Godspeed!


    Hanging on to every word! Best of luck, I am eating chocolate in your honor. Climb on!!


    Eat lots of chocolate, rest and stay strong. Sending you positive vibes and blessings.


    A cliff hanger (so to speak…). Here’s to hoping for a prolonged calm window for you and your team’s safe summit and leisurely, safe return to base camp . Strength and Honor !


    Awesome!!!! Good luck


    Strong and steady…glad to hear about the strategic decision to stay an extra night at C2.
    Of course, given the time difference, you’re probably now close to C3. Hope conditions shape up for you.
    Climb on!


    Good Luck ! am following you all the way to the Summit!


    Viv Metz


    Alan…great decision by Simo and Ang Jangbu to stay another night at C2 and always watch Dave Hahn…he knows when to go for lit. We did the same thing last year.
    Have a great stay at C3 and climb to the South Col.
    “One step at a time!”


    Will be following last steps from London, the very best of luck!!


    Good luck and Godspeed, Alan.


    hope the weather starts to smile on you Alan….love every update!!


    “Your love is lifting me higher”Alans theme song for the next week,from all of us around this big yet small world.I am truely impressed with all the comments!!


    Man is that a big face,see what I mean,you can just make out the camps and that is only part of the Lhotse face!!Ohh ya,the chocolate fix…go Alan go…you’ll burn that off just in three short steps up Lhotse…I will be checking in later.


    Sounding strong, Alan. I’m excited for you in these next couple of days. You’ve got me glued to the computer. Climb On, brother.


    Keep raiding the pantry late at night for carbs! Climb Strong and Climb On!


    Sounds like a prudent plan, Alan. A better weather forecast and avoiding the bottleneck with all those other climbers who already went up. You must be stoked to be getting another shot at the summit in a few days. Stay healthy, warm and well fed.


    Good luck Alan! Keep the updates coming!