Everest/Lhotse 2016: Arrival at Base Camp

I walked by Gorak Shep, the last and highest of the Sherpa villages, on the way to Everest Base Camp (EBC). The climber and trekker traffic has picked up considerably. The walk to EBC follows a narrow dirt path along the top edge of the age-old moraine dug out by the Khumbu Glacier.

Yak trains have priority! Their bells ringing, some are decorated with red ribbons and even prayer flags – they are oblivious to all this and seem content to plod along slowly regardless of their load – or their drivers whistling at them or even tossing the random rock their way. They exhibit a zen like focus!

I looked at the glacial ice that cut out the deep valley. A few small lakes emerged as I neared EBC, but mostly it was dirt covered ice with huge pinnacles standing upright like solders at attention. However, it was just a matter of time until they too fell.

As I crested one small hill, the snoot of the Khumbu Icefall came into view. I knew if I looked closely I would be able to spot the tents of base camp. Sure enough, a long line of large yellow tents appeared, surrounded by small tents. This was Himex – Russell Brice always choose a site far away from the base of the Icefall as he usually has a large team and requires a large space. This year, he only has five members, but is hosting 14 filmmakers from Discovery Channel working on a documentary about Everest helicopter pilots.

Next to him I spotted IMG with their huge green canvas tents. With over 40 members and maybe 100 Sherpas they also require a lot of space. Then I noticed more yellow tents far away at the absolute base of the Icefall, literally hundreds of tents. Base Camp was spread out like I have never seen.

It was long and narrow, squeezed between the ice of the glacier and the walls leading to Pumori. The landscape had changed bit from last year, but it always does. Curiously many camps were still in the same spot that took the direct impact of the earthquake induced avalanche off Litgren/Pumori last year.

I slowly walked across the glacier and into EBC proper. My emotions were as varied as the scene before me. I focused on the moment with gratitude for the opportunity to return and shut out the distractions.

I walked slowly, deliberately and soon found the Altitude Junkies base camp. It was large for our 6 person Everest team plus me for Lhotse. With 20 Sherpas in support. Phil Crampton takes great pride in his camp. He has a dedicated large tent for the Sherpas to eat, a cooking tent, dining tent, storage tent and two smaller toilet/shower tents for men and women. And of course the sleeping tents. Similar to others when totaled, there will be around 1,000 people making base camp their home for April and May.

Nelson Dellis and I took a walk in search of the EverestLink card that would give us Internet access. It costs US$50 for 1GB of data. Ncell, the cell phone company has phone service at base camp but 3G connection is sparse and will require some exploration to find a good connection. We ended up at EverestER, the volunteer organization that provides full medical services for everyone at base camp – porters, Sherpas, members – as long as the members of the expedition pay $100 each – an incredible bargain and valued service. They need funds after the last two years destroyed their camp and depleted a lot of their supplies. I’ll do an interview with them in a few weeks.

As I walked through the long base camp, I didn’t recognize many of the names stenciled on the tents. Take these five words: Himalayan, Trek, Holiday, Adventure and Sherpa and combine them in any possible way and you have the names of local Nepali companies who have found members to lead on Everest. I have been predicting that the locals would take over Everest and based on this walk thru, the transition is well under way given many long time Western operators have half their usual members and some are not here at all.

We returned to our base camp for an early dinner and then to bed. Overnight, the temperature bottomed out a reasonable 17F – warm for this time of year. The Icefall Doctors are said to have the route almost to Camp 1 and should be finished to Camp 2 in a few days. The expeditions will take over there to fix the route to the summit. This year, the Ministry of Tourism has given them permission to use helicopters to get ropes and gear to Camp 1 thus saving 85 Sherpa loads through the Icefall.

There are many reports that Sherpas making 30 one-way climbs through the Icefall, the Altitude Junkies Sherpas will do about 18 in total. This is due to Phil choosing to forgo any type of luxury at Camp 2. He also has the Sherpas start using oxygen at Camp 3, most begin at Camp 4 on the summit push. Finally they carry maximum loads of 20 pounds where some Sherpas carry in excess of 50 pounds. So as you can see, it is difficult to make gross generalizations. But the heavier the load, less use of oxygen and fewer support staff translates into lower costs to the members but more work, and risk, for the Sherpas.

The Lamas have chosen April 14 as an auspicious day thus that is when we will have our Puja so we will be resting and acclimatizing while we wait. A steady stream of teams are arriving this weekend and a few teams are doing acclimatization climbs on Lobuche.

It looks like total climbers are down about 15% from 2015. There are 385 climbers on Everest (279), Lhotse (72) and Nuptse (34) for 2016. 40% of the permits are extensions from 2014 and 2015. So much for my prediction of a ‘quieter’ season!

So, Everest 2016 is well underway. As I’ve said before there is a quiet apprehension around camp. During conversations, eyes tend to look up at the hanging seracs on Litgren, on the West Shoulder of Everest and while out of sight from base camp, towards the summits of Everest and Lhotse. Often unspoken but when audible, a gentle comment is offered for a safe season for all.

Many of the Sherpas have had multiple Pujas this year and when the prayer flags will emerge during the Pujas and they will also offer an offering to Chomolungma.

Everest News

• North side teams delayed entering China until April 15 earliest, maybe later due to border closing … again.
• Many teams are arriving at Everest Base Camp this weekend
• Route set to Camp 1, contrary to press reports it is at Camp 2
• First trips into Icefall for foreigners probably around April 14-16
• Alan is now at Everest Base Camp
• Both Ncell and EverestLink are working well this year
• Teahouses are very quiet with fewer trekkers on the trail this year
• Weather has been normal, but warm at EBC – clear mornings, cloudy afternoon with no precipitation
• 279 Everest permits have been issued to 31 different teams as of April 10 per the Himalayan Times and Ministry of Tourism
• 72 on Mt Lhotse and 34 on Mt Nuptse this year
• India has most climbers at 61 followed by US at 56
• In 2015, the Ministry of Tourism reported 319 individuals with Everest permits and 96 for Lhotse. 109 climbers from 2014 used their permits in 2015.

Thanks to the Himalayan Times and Rajan for this year’s statistics.

Climb On!

Alan

Memories are Everything

Thanks to the Himalayan Times and Rajan Pokhrel for this year’s statistics.

Climb On!

Alan

Memories are Everything