Everest 2022: Summit Wave 1 Underway

Teams are leaving the South Col for the first wave of summit pushes tonight, Tuesday, May 10, 2022. Everest summit record holder Kami Rita Sherpa was evacuated from C2 with snow blindness. The high winds seemed to have calmed allowing these first summit attempts.

There appear to be excellent summit conditions, i.e. winds under 30 mph/50 kph through the weekend at least. The summit temperatures are hovering around 0F/-17C which is extremely warm. This is excellent news for those climbing without Os as they will move slower and be colder than those on Os.

Mountain Professionals, under the leadership of Ryan Waters, are ready to go a bit later than the usual 9:00 pm departure:

Mt. Everest Summit push begins 2 a.m. on the 11th of May. Our group will begin to work their way up through the camps and have a projected target for the summit on May 15th! Stay tuned for progress and all the best of luck to the team for a safe climb!

Summit Climb has two no O’s climbers on the move:

Everest Dispatch Blog. Two of our members would Iike to try without oxygen, so they are now in the camp 3 – camp 4 area doing high altitude training for oxygenless ascents. Two of our strongest Everest summitter Sherpas are accompanying them, caring extra oxygen, masks, and regulators in case of emergency. The weather is mildly overcast, warm with light snow

Other teams on the move include Full Circle Everest. Updates as we get more news.

Kami Rita was reported to have recovered, but it’s uncertain if he will return to guide for a record 27 summit.


With Adrian Ballinger’s Alpenglow team Karl Egloff and Nico Miranda set an FNT-Fastest Known Time record reaching the summit of Makalu in 17 hours and 18 minutes, not using supplemental oxygen.

Climb On!
Memories are Everything

The Podcast on alanarnette.com

You can listen to #everest2022 podcasts on Spotify, Apple Podcast, Google Podcasts, Pocket Casts, RadioPublic, Anchor, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast platform.

Summit Coach

Schedule a Freee Call

summit coach

If you dream of climbing mountains but are not sure how to start or reach your next level, from a Colorado 14er to Rainier, Everest, or even K2, we can help. Summit Coach is a consulting service that helps aspiring climbers throughout the world achieve their goals through a personalized set of consulting services based on Alan Arnette’s 25 years of high altitude mountain experience, including summits of Everest, K2, and Manaslu, and 30 years as a business executive.

Comments on/from Facebook

Share this post:

3 thoughts on “Everest 2022: Summit Wave 1 Underway

  1. I became fascinated with Everest when I read an autobiography by Edmund Hilary. I follow your blog every year.

  2. I really enjoy your reporting. I’m not a climber, but I’m very interested in Everest,and the polar regions. My interest began as a youngster when I read the book Annapurna. Keep up the good work.

Comments are closed.