Everest 2023: More Everest Summits, and Lhotse

As the saying goes, if you must predict the future, do it early and often. Even some of the best weather forecasters may have missed this high-wind episode that stalled most climbing on Monday. But don’t blame them too much as pockets of winds can develop unexpectedly and suddenly.

However, four members of the Nepali army did summit supported by four Sherpas bringing the season total to at least twenty-nine, including the rope team. The summiters were Captain Dipendra Singh Khatri, Captain Bishnu Bal Rai, Kishor Jabegu and Shankar Kuwar, with Ongchhu Sherpa, Phurba Sherpa, Lakpa Sherpa and Phurba Dorchi Sherpa. Also summiting were Kitti Boonitrod and Phur Galjen Sherpa.

Advetnure Consultants reports in:

The ropes are in and the winds have dropped. We’re expecting the first teams to summit today but everyone has been delayed by the high winds and inability to stock South Col Camp 4. Our sherpa team have made it to South Col so we’re almost ready for our summit push. The push is a seven day round trip so we have to pick the weather well in advance. To help with recovery and prep we’ve been doing short walks from EBC. Yesterday we headed towards Gorak Shep with the aim of finding Pika which is a small rodent like a Guinea Pig. They are elusive and though we spotted one it was reluctant to stay still for photos.On the way we were reacquainted with the camp dog. It seems Trekkers Rock is a better place for scavenging scraps and cuddles. Some of our team feel a little rejected but the life of a Khumbu dog is tough and fickle so they go where life is best.

Not an 8000er but always in sight from EBC Pumori was summited by Dutch climber Christian Jong with Prakash Sherpa. A previous attempt by a different team was thwarted by poor upper mountain conditions.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

Nepal RECORD Permit Update as of May 14, 2023

Government officials say they will not issue any more Everest climbing permits this season, stopping at a record of 478. The previous Everest record was 408 for the 2021 season of 408. Nepal issued climbing permits for 1,176 climbers from 80 countries for 27 peaks. Looking at Everest only, China has the largest representation with 97 members, followed by the US at 89, India–at 40, Canada-21, and Russia-20. There are 44 countries represented by three or fewer climbers.

These permits have generated $5.8M in royalties for the government. Almost all of this revenue stays in Kathmandu, with some in various personal pockets and none to the Sherpas, porters, or other high-altitude workers. The Nepal Ministry of Tourism posted these foreign permit tallies as of May 14, 2022:

1. Everest: 478 on 47 teams
2. Lhotse: 156 on 17 teams
3. Ama Dablam: 79 on 8 teams
4. Nuptse: 63 on 6 teams (only a few will attempt to summit, most will stop at C2)
5. Makalu: 63 on 9 teams
6. Annapurna I: 54 on 5 teams
7. Kanchenjunga: 44 on 5 teams
8. Himlung: 41 on 5 teams
9. Dhaulagiri: 37 on 4 teams
10. Manaslu: 15 on 4 teams

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

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