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May 292012

Welcome to Alan Arnette’s Everest 2012 coverage

Last 2012 Everest News – 31 May 2012

  • A sincere and deep thank you to everyone who made a donation to one of the Alzheimer’s non-profits. That is why I do this.
  • Very rough, check unconfirmed estimates: Total at base camps: 446 westerners plus 500 Sherpas totaling 946.  548 combined summits from both sides 57.93% summit to attempt rate. 10 total deaths.
  • If you have a general Everest question, please post here as a comment and I will try to address it.
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This table is my estimate each team’s location based on public information. Please refer to each expedition’s site for current information.


South Col Route (map)

32 teams, 337 climbers, 400+ Sherpas
Summit (climbers/Sherpas)
               395 est.
Facebook for AC Twitterfor AC Adventure Consultants (8/4) e          9/13
Facebook for AAI Twitter for AAI Alpine Ascents Int. (9/6) e         8/6
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI Asian Trekking Eco/Peace/Youth (26) e         30/35
  Chile e         10/10
  Dream Guides e          2/1
Facebook for SC Twitter for SC Bill Burke (2/2) e          
  High Adventure Expeditions (2)           ?
Facebook for IMG Himex (24/9 plus: 7 Lhotse, 4 Nuptse) e          
Facebook for IMG IMG Classic (20?/7)  e         12/14
Facebook for IMG IMG Hybrid (8/2) e         11/11
Facebook for JG Jagged Globe(7/1) e         6/4
Facebook for MT Twitter for PF Mountain Trip (5/2)  e          5/10
  WMS Everest Experience (5/2) e         1/3
Facebook for MT Twitter for PF Patagonia Brothers (4/2) e         4/2
Facebook for PF Twitter for PF Peak Freaks (12/3) e         8/9
  Project Himalaya (Cris Klinke) (3/1)  e         1/1
  Sierra Mountaineering (2) e         2
  Pune (13) e          8/8?
Facebook for SC Twitter for SC Summit Climb (8/1) e         3/3
  others         X+ 137+ est

Northeast Ridge Route (map)

TEAMS (members/guides)
13 teams, 109 climbers, 100+ Sherpas/Tibetans
              153 est.
Facebook for AT Twitter for AAI Asian Trekking Polish/Japanese (10) e          3/4
  Andrew Lock e          
  Adventure Peaks (8/1) e         4/4
  Altitude Junkies (7/1) e         6/5
Facebook for SC Twitter for SC Bill Burke (1/2) e          
Facebook for SC Twitter for SC Summit Climb (4/1) e         2/4
  Project Himalaya (Tom Kowpak) (1/1) e          2/2
  7 Summits Club (16/4) e          15/13
  others           90++ est

West Ridge Route/Southeast ridge

  Eddie Bauer West Ridge (Jake Norton)  e        T  
  Eddie Bauer Southeast Ridge (Dave Hahn)  e         2+/?
  NatGeo West Ridge (Conrad Anker)  e        T  
  NatGeo Southeast Ridge (Sam Elias)  e          6/?
e= climb ended, x=last reported location, x+ = on summit bid, -x = descending h=high sleep point, T=touched not slept.
Summit number = member/sherpa Locations are estimates derived from public websites

Welcome to Alan Arnette’s Everest 2012 coverage. My coverage is based on my own experiences, research, sources, and public information. I try to provide insight and interpretation of the activities ranging from routes to weather to the challenge of climbing Everest. I did similar coverage of the 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009 seasons. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011 and climbed Everest four times – 2002, 2003, 2008 and 2011.

If you have received value from my work during this 2012 Everest season, please consider a donation to one of these Alzheimer’s nonprofits, 100% for Alzheimer’s, none for me.

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Thank You

10 Confirmed deaths

  1. 40 year-old Karsang Namgyal Sherpa climbing with Prestige Adventures related to alcohol at base camp
  2. Peak Freaks’ Namgyal Tshering Sherpa fell from a ladder into a crevasse near C1
  3. Dawa Tenzing with Himex from stroke in the Khumbu Icefall and died in Kathmandu
  4. 33 year-old Indian, Ramesh Gulve, climbing with the Pune team suffered a stroke around Camp2 and died back in India.
  5. Dr Ebehard Schaaf with Asian Trekking of HACE near South Summit after his summit
  6. Shriya Shah-Klorfine, 33, a Nepali-born Canadian climbing with Utmost Adventures died below the Balcony after her summit
  7. Won-Bin Song from South Korea climbing with the Korean Everest & Lhotse Expedition died after a fall at the Hillary Step and then at the Balcony after his summit
  8. Chinese climber, Ha Wenyi climbing with Mountain Experience died just below the Balcony
  9. Juan José Polo Carbayo, 43, climbing with Himalayan Guides, died May 20 after summiting from the north, probably of exhaustion. Dr. Polo had been living in the Canary Islands, Spain.
  10. Climbing with Monterosa, a German climber, Ralf D. Arnold,  broke his leg at the 2nd step and has died after his summit

69 year old Italian Luigi Rampini, climbing on a Monterosa permit and logistics, spent 4 nights at 8300 meters without oxygen. He refused to descend a few days ago but was rescued per this report He was attempting the summit.

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