We have the first Everest summits of the spring 2024 season. Adrian Ballinger of Alpenglow, now in Chengdu on his way to Chinese Base Camp on the Tibet side, tells me the Tibetan rope fixing team summited today, May 7, opening the route to all climbers.
This was expected, given China allowed Chinese climbers to be on Everest weeks ahead of foreigners. Citing national holidays and other delays, foreigners were prohibited from entering Tibet until May 7, but there was speculation that the rope team was working on the route.
On the Nepal side, it’s a mixed bag of activities. Climbers are still on acclimatization rotations, some resting in base camp waiting for the rope and weather window, and some have dropped back to lower villages like Namache or Lukla. A few have taken helicopters back to Kathmandu for a high-end R&R. In any event, look for summits on the Nepal side as early as this upcoming weekend, weather permitting.
For those trying to follow climbers on the Nepal side, note that the Internet is spotty this year, so we have long periods of since. Rest assured, all is well, and assume the best.
On both sides, climbers can expect more difficult climbing this spring due to the warm, dry winter that left the mountain with less than usual snow and more than usual exposed rock, thus rock fall.
8K Expeditions reported three more Makalu summits.
Adrian Hayes tells me they have the green light for a summit push on Kangchenguga:
“So… All confirmed head up tomorrow- wed camp two, thursday camp three, friday camp four, leaving eight pm or so, sat summit and back to camp four, three or two, monday base. Daw Sherpa (big boss seven summts) has looked at all weather channels and its looking ok for next six days. The 8k guys also going. Rope fix have reached 8300 so all looking good”
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
Podcasts
You can listen to #everest2024 podcasts on Spotify, Apple Podcast, Breaker, YouTube, Pocket Casts, RadioPublic, Anchor, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast platform.
Everyday Everest
Next drop on May 8, 2024
A new 16-part podcast series during the Everest 2024 climbing season.
Based on my Fictional 2020 Virtual Everest series, I’ll have a twenty-minute updated episode of the story a few times a week for the next two months. Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home, trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push. The story’s protagonist, Harper, sets the tone for the story when she tells her husband, Marc, “Honey, I’m going to climb Everest.”
You can listen to Everyday Everest on Spotify, Apple Podcast, Breaker, YouTube, Pocket Casts, RadioPublic, Anchor, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast platform.
Previous Everyday Everest Series Episodes
- Everyday Everest Podcast Part 14–Summit Push
- Everyday Everest Podcast Part 13–Climbing Above Camp 3
- Everyday Everest Podcast Part 12–Summit Plan for the Team
- Everyday Everest Podcast Part 11–First Summits
- Everyday Everest Podcast Part 10–Climbing the Lhotse Face
- Everyday Everest Podcast Part 9–Summit Date Planned
- Everyday Everest Podcast Part 8–Suffering at Camp 2
- Everyday Everest Podcast Part 7–Into the Cwm
- Everyday Everest Podcast Part 6–Into the Icefall
- Everyday Everest Podcast Part 5–Arrival At Base Camp
- Everyday Everest Podcast Part 4–Blessing in the Khumbu
- Everyday Everest Podcast Part 3–The Trek Begins
- Everyday Everest Podcast Part 2–Hello Kathmandu
- Everyday Everest Podcast Part 1–Welcome and Part 1
Preparing for Everest is more than Training
There are five Summit Coach clients on Everest in 2024
If you dream of climbing mountains but are unsure how to start or reach your next level, from a Colorado 14er to Rainier, Everest, or even K2, we can help. Summit Coach is a consulting service that helps aspiring climbers worldwide achieve their goals through a personalized set of consulting services based on Alan Arnette’s 30 years of high-altitude mountain experience and 30 years as a business executive. Please see our prices and services on the Summit Coach website.
