Everest 2018: Russian Luxury on the North
If you have followed Everest for years, then 7 Summits Club is a familiar name. Run by long-time Everest guide Alex Abramov, he has made his base camp on the Tibet side a place of fun and hospitality. His May Day parties are legendary. Well, now he has upped the luxury ante significantly. With 40 […]
Everest 2018: Interview with IMG’s Greg Vernovage
This interview is one of an ongoing series I do each season with Everest climbers and guides. I welcome suggestions for anyone climbing in 2018 that I should interview. My last interview was with climber Patrick McKnight. This is with Greg Vernovage, International Mountain Guide‘s (IMG) Associate Program Director & Everest Expedition Leader. If you have been to Everest on the […]
Everest 2018: Interview with Patrick McKnight
This interview with Patrick McKnight is one of an ongoing series I do each season with Everest climbers. Not the famous, sponsored ones who get plenty of publicity but the regular people, who often have full time jobs, full time families and climb for the love of the climb. I welcome suggestions for anyone climbing in 2018 […]
Everest 2018: Final Preparations and More Rules
As we approach mid-March, some families around the world are shifting their minds to Everest. Soon they will make that drive to the airport to send their loved-one away for two months knowing they are going on an adventure of their life. For the climbers, this is all about the dream. For the ones left […]
Nepal Supreme Court Allows Disabled Climbers
In a dramatic, and reasonable move, the Nepal Supreme Court has struck down a new rule by Nepal’s Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation to ban climbers with double amputations and blindness. The case was brought on behalf of double amputee Hari Budha Magar who is a former British Gurkha. Mager reacted on Facebook with “What […]
K2 Team Ends Winter Expedition
The Winter Polish K2 team ended their effort after K2 had seen over 80cm/31 inches of new snow that buried ropes and destroyed high camps. The climbing community is now 0 for 4 with attempts to summit K2 in the winter since 1987/88. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and […]
Broken Leg Update: Ready to Jump (again)
Nina Patterson my physical therapist, has been a crucial part of my “progress” plan for many months. Usually, I limped into her office with a short list of areas with too much “feedback.” Sometimes, she simply said “Alan, your injury is severe and you need to be patient.” And others “You need to push to […]
The Definition of Winter for K2 and Everest Climbs
With the drama dissipating from K2, the Polish team remains at base camp waiting for better weather. Everest is now officially over but the debate about when winter ends, will continue forever. See this post for full background on the K2 and Everest expeditions and the history of winter attempts on the highest two mountains […]
K2 Team Focuses on the Summit. Another Everest Attempt?
Denis Urubko remains at base camp along with the drama. Now that he is off the team, the remaining climbers are focusing on a potential summit push around mid March. Alex Txikon suggested he ended his winter Everest attempt with his permit expiring on 28 February but today said maybe not! See this post for […]
Winter K2 – Denis Urubko Abandons Summit Effort, Leaves Team
Update: Denis Urubko has decided to leave the team. He didn’t summit. The Polish team made this announcement today: Denis Urubko, in accordance with their beliefs about the end of the winter season, decided to leave the Winter Expedition to K2. This decision was accepted by the members of the expedition who did not see the […]