7 Summits Comparisons

I climbed seven of the eight Seven Summits in 2010/11. It took 18 airlines, 58 flights, 116,112 miles flown, 120 time zones and 201 nights away from home over 322 days to raise awareness and research funds for Alzheimer’s, and to honor my mom, Ida Arnette, who was taken by this disease in 2009. Read the 7 Summits overview.

I climbed 7 of the 8 “7” Summits in 11 months in 2011. So why 8? Read the answer here. This page provides a quick comparison that may be helpful for climbers with experience on one and considering another. Also see my comparison of some of the worlds most popular mountains also an excellent interview of my 7 Summits climb
	Kosciuszko (7,310′)	Carstensz Pyramid (16,023′)	Vinson (16,067)	Elbrus (18,513′)	Kilimanjaro (19,340′)	Denali (20,320)	Aconcagua (22,834′)	Everest (29,031′)
Time in nearest large city	Cannabera	Port Moresby	Punta Arenas	Mineralniy Vody	Moshi	Anchorage	Mendoza	Katmandu
Route commented on and date climbed	Kosciuszko Track from Thredbo October 2011	North Face October 2011	West Face, Branscomb Glacier December 2010	North side, West Summit Mikelchiran Glacier August 2011	Machame September 2011	West Buttress July 2011	Polish Traverse January 2011	Southeast Ridge April 2011
Headline	The “original” 7th Summit by Dick Bass but too easy for Morrow/Messner thus Carstensz.	Most technical of the 7 and just getting there is the challenge.	The most remote of the 7 Summits – pristine and perfect with endless ice	Climbing from the north is more a cultural experience than climbing. Harder than southside.	The roof of Africa with a sense of urgency for the receding glaciers	Some of the best views and worst weather of the 7	Often underestimated by the 70% who don’t summit the highest peak outside the Himalaya	The top of the world and deserving of every accolade over the century
Approach to base Camp (BC)	drive to trailhead, ski lift to 5,000′	Jungle trek for 5 days or helicopter	plane from Union Glacier	long, rough 5 hour drive on 4WD roads	2 hours drive to trailhead	plane from Talkeetna to Kahiltna Glacier	Easy, 3 day trek to BC	Easy, 7 day trek to BC in Khumbu
Overall Difficulty	Easy – A walk-up on dirt trails but can be a challenge in cold wintry weather with trail finding in whiteouts.	Technical with rock climbing, altitude can be issue for some.	Moderate – no “climbing” required other than headwall, heavy loads up and down high up requires excellent fitness	Moderate – no “climbing” required. Carrying personal loads to High Camp requires good fitness	Easy – mostly on well worn trails but altitude can be difficult	Moderate – no “climbing” required other than headwall, heavy loads up and down high up requires excellent fitness	Moderate – no “climbing” involved, altitude can bother some who go too fast.	Very hard – altitude above 25000′ wears on you, 8 weeks away.
Technical Difficulty (ice or rock climbing, need for axes, harnesses, slings, protection, etc)	None. nothing special required	Moderate – rock climbing, rappelling and a Tyrolean Traverse makes it interesting	Easy. Harness, crampons, roped up for crevasse and fall safety. Pull sleds with gear.	Easy. Harness, crampons, roped up for crevasse and fall safety	None. nothing special required. Maybe microspikes if summit is snow covered.	Simple. Harness, crampons, roped up for crevasse and fall safety. Pull sleds with gear. Headwall can challenge some.	Easy, crampons in one short section (Canaleta) on summit push	moderate due to altitude in yellow band, Hillary Step. Harness, axe, crampons, roped up for crevasse and fall safety
Altitude Considerations	not an issue for most people	Must acclimatize properly and watch for AMS.	Must acclimatize properly and watch for AMS.	Must acclimatize properly and watch for AMS.	High altitude gain so must acclimatize gradually with no rush by guides and watch for AMS.	Must acclimatize gradually with rest days at 14K and 17K Watch for AMS.	Serious above C3. Must acclimatize gradually and not rush. Watch for AMS, HAPE and HACE	Extreme. Serious, especially above C2. Use supplemental Oxygen. Must acclimatized properly and watch for AMS, HAPE, HACE
Weather (all mountains can be cold, windy and constantly change!!)	+70F day, can be windy and cold in winter with whiteouts	Hot, humid and rain in the jungle, cold on the summit push	+60F day, -30F night. Can be extremely wet	+70F day, 0F night on summit. we had light winds	+60F day, 0F night. Can be very wet	+40F day, -10F night. we had no snow and light winds. Can be brutally cold!!	+50F day, 0F night but winds are the issue and can be beyond cold on summit night.	+90F day, -30F night above 23K. Occasional very high winds, moderate to heavy snowfall
base Camp altitude	4,528′	14,000′ at Lakes Camp	7,300′ on Bascomb Glacier	8,200′ on Emanuil’s Glade	5905′ at Machame gate	7,200′ at Kahiltna Glacier	13,880 Campo Argentina	17,500′ on Khumbu Glacier
Camp 1 and average climb time from previous Camp	N/A		9,100′ – 4 hours	12,000′ – 4 hours	10,000′ at Machame Hut – 6 hours	7,800′ – 3 hours	16,075 – 3 hours	19,500′ – 4 hours via Icefall after acclimation
Camp 2 and average climb time from previous Camp	N/A	N/A	13,200′ – 6 hours	N/A	12,200′ at Shira Hut – 5 hours	11,200′ – 4 hours	17,500′ (Camp 1.5) – 4 hours	21,000′ – 3 hours
Camp 3 and average climb time from previous Camp	N/A	N/A	N/A	N/A	13,000′ at Barranco Hut – 6 hours. Karanga Valley 13,000′ – 4 hours	14,200′ – 3 hours	19,500′ – 3 hours	23,500′ – 5 hours
Camp 4 and average climb time from previous Camp	N/A	N/A	N/A	N/A	15,000′ at Barufu Hut – 4 hours	17,200′ – 6 hours	N/A	26,300′ – 4 hours
Summit and average round trip climb time	7,310′ – 1 hours summit round trip. 8.6 miles	16,023′ – 12 hours round trip	16,067′ – 12 hours summit round trip	18,513′ – 12 hours summit round trip	19,340′ – 9 hours summit round trip	20,320′- 9 hours summit round trip	22,842 – 10 hours summit round trip	29,035 – 18 hours summit round trip
Special gear required or suggested	WInd jacket, good hiking shoes	Full technical harness, carabineers, jumar	full protection for extreme cold and winds	protection for high winds and cold	sturdy high top hiking boots plus excellent rain pants and jacket	excellent fitting pack for heavy loads	excellent wind protection	Full down suit or jacket/pants
Special training required or suggested	Good fitness but not over the top	Excellent aerobic conditioning (running, cycling).	Excellent aerobic conditioning (running, cycling). Strong stomach & back muscles for loads.	Good aerobic conditioning (running, cycling). Strong stomach & back muscles for loads.	Aerobic training especially for those who have never climbed above 14,000′	Excellent aerobic conditioning (running, cycling). Strong stomach & back muscles for loads.	Excellent aerobic conditioning (running, cycling).	Outstanding aerobic conditioning (running, cycling). Strong stomach & back muscles for loads. Strong thigh and calf muscles for long days. Mental toughness
Low point of the mountain or climb	can be crowded in summer with over 100,000 people climbing it each year.	The uncertainty of the logistics and the bribes required for the locals	very long waits for plane to and from Union Glacier	High Camp is very dirty with widespread waste	cloudy, misty days that block views. Very dusty otherwise	trudging up to Basin Camp at 14K with full loads and sleds. Few nice views … yet	dirt, dust and wind the entire climb!	Physical and mental pressure towards end of climb. Long time away. Icefall can be risky but awesome
Unique aspect of the mountain or climb	The summit view is fantastic overlooking the Snowy Mountain Range	The rock climbing is excellent. Plus the interaction with the tribes is eye opening.	Antarctica is one of the most amazing places on earth with pristine and prefect views of endless ice.	It is Russia! More of a cultural experience than climbing but summit day was excellent with outstanding views	Seeing the disappearing snows and glaciers from the summit. Also African culture	incredible views of Alaska. Flight onto Kahiltna Glacier. True snow Camping with snow walls, trapped in tent for days!	High altitude with snow and easy logistics. Argentinean culture is special	A true, long, expedition, fixed ropes, Lhotse Face, South Col, Summit night. A lifetime experience
Estimated Annual Climbers, % success	10,000 annual @ 80%+ summits	500 annual @ 90%+ summits	300 annual @ 95%+ summits	Best guess 5000+ from south with 50% success, 1000 north @ 40%	25,000 annual @ 66%+ summits	1,200 annual @ 50% summits	5000 annual @ 30% summits	600 annual @ 80% summits
	Kosciuszko (7,310′)	Carstensz Pyramid (16,023′)	Vinson (16,067)	Elbrus (18,513′)	Kilimanjaro (19,340′)	Denali (20,320′)	Aconcagua (22,834′)	Everest (29,031′)

Memories are Everything^®

Alan Arnette is an Alzheimer’s advocate for individuals, their families and anyone impacted by this disease through his professional speaking, climbing and website.

His objectives for the Memories are Everything^® climbs are:

Educate the public, especially youth, on the early warning signs and how to prepare
Increase awareness that Alzheimer’s Disease has no cure
Raise research money for Alzheimer’s non-profits

He has completed two major projects:

NO CURE, always fatal
No easy, inexpensive method of early detection
3rd leading cause of death in the US
New case every 68 seconds, 4 seconds worldwide
Impacts more than 5+m in US, 25m+ worldwide
Devastating financial burden on families
Depression higher for caregivers
Issues are increasing rapidly as population ages

The Alzheimer’s Immunotherapy Program of Janssen Alzheimer Immunotherapy and Pfizer Inc. funded my climbs for the 7 Summits campaign and ongoing efforts between November 2010 and November 2012. All money I raised then and now from donations goes directly to the organizations I have selected. During the campaign, content posted here was my own but subject to certain limitations in conjunction with the support of the AIP.

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7 Summits Comparisons

Memories are Everything®

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Memories are Everything^®