The Climbing Progression
Practical advice from more than 30 years of climbing, from Colorado to the summits of Everest and K2: how to progress, the skills you need, what gear to take, how to choose a climb and a guide, and what to expect on the mountain. For one-on-one help planning your climb, see Summit Coach.
To prepare for a major objective such as Everest, you need a consistent program in which you progressively train as hard as you can, especially on real-world outdoor hikes and climbs, gaining as much elevation as possible for as long as possible. Here is an ideal progression. It takes time and travel, but each step builds the skills and altitude experience the next one demands.
The Ideal Progression
1. Build climbing skills
- Grand Teton, Wyoming: 13,775′
- A Rainier climbing school, Washington: 14,410′
2. Gain comfort at altitude (one climb minimum)
- Pico de Orizaba, Mexico: 18,491′
- Nepal trekking peaks: Mera 21,247′, Island 20,305′, Lobuche East 20,075′
- Nepal’s Three Passes trek, including Everest Base Camp: max altitude 18,222′
- Colombia’s Pico Cristóbal Colón: 18,798′
- Ecuador’s volcanoes: up to 20,549′
3. Extra credit: serious altitude and climbing experience (one climb minimum)
- Ojos del Salado, Argentina/Chile: 22,615′
- Himlung Himal, Nepal: 23,380′
- Ama Dablam, Nepal: 22,349′
4. Highly recommended before Everest (one climb minimum)
- Aconcagua, Argentina: 22,841′
- Manaslu, Nepal: 26,781′
- Cho Oyu, Tibet: 26,864′
- Gasherbrum II, Pakistan: 26,362′
Training Climbs by Altitude
Another way to look at it is by altitude band. Work your way up, one band at a time.
4,000 meters
- Colorado 14ers: Longs, Pyramid, Capitol, Crestone Peak, Little Bear
- California: Whitney
- Washington: Rainier
5,000 meters
- Ecuador: Cayambe 18,996′ (5,790 m), Cotopaxi 19,347′ (5,897 m)
- Mexico: Pico de Orizaba 18,491′ (5,636 m), Iztaccíhuatl 17,159′ (5,230 m)
6,000 meters
- Ecuador: Chimborazo 20,549′ (6,263 m)
- Nepal trekking peaks: Island Peak 20,305′ (6,189 m), Mera Peak 21,247′ (6,476 m), Lobuche East 20,075′ (6,119 m)
- Denali, Alaska: 20,310′ (6,190 m)
- Ojos del Salado, Argentina/Chile: 22,615′ (6,893 m)
- Ama Dablam, Nepal: 22,349′ (6,812 m)
Approaching and above 7,000 meters
- Aconcagua, Argentina: 22,841′ (6,962 m)
- Himlung Himal, Nepal: 23,379′ (7,126 m)
- Baruntse, Nepal: 23,389′ (7,129 m)
- Lenin Peak, Kyrgyzstan/Tajikistan: 23,406′ (7,134 m)
- Muztagh Ata, China: 24,750′ (7,546 m)
When you are ready for an 8,000-meter peak, see Choosing an 8,000-Meter Peak and my training ideas. To compare popular peaks, see Mountain Comparisons.
Get help planning your climb
Every climber starts somewhere different. If you want an independent, one-on-one plan for your next objective, with no ties to guide companies or gear brands, that is what I do with Summit Coach. Start with a free call, or download my free Climber’s Starter Handbook.
Preparing for a Climb is More Than Training
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Planning your next big climb? Work one-on-one with Alan Arnette, Everest and K2 summiteer, for personalized training plans, independent guide-service advice, gear recommendations, and experienced support from preparation through expedition.
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