Practical advice from more than 30 years of climbing, from Colorado to the summits of Everest and K2: what gear to take, how to stay in touch, how to choose a guide and how the mountains compare. For one-on-one help planning your climb, see Summit Coach.
Since I am not a professional climber, I used guides on all my big trips or when I need to learn something new. This page is my personal list of favorites expedition companies where I generally only comment when I have first-hand experience or a strong reference from someone I know well. Also, please see the Selecting a Guide page for FAQs on selecting a guide.
Note: the term ‘guide’ has grown in definition over time. Most of the companies I list on this page offer ‘guided’ climbs but this does not mean a 1:1 ratio between western guide and client. It means that there is one ‘leader’ who is on the mountain with many clients at the same time. On large Himalayan peaks it is common to have a wide range of guide to client ratios from 1:1 to 1:4 to 1:20 The large teams supplement the guide/leader ratio with Sherpa Guides (at an addition cost) at ratios from 1:1 up to 1:4 Sherpa to client.
The best companies keep their total clients in a single push under eight with a 1:1 sherpa:client ratio plus at least one, preferably more, experienced western or well-qualified Sherpa guides. And they have several Sherpas on standby at a high camp for emergencies.
With large groups or high ratios, if you get in trouble (fall, illness, or lost) you might not be able to reach your western guide/leader or qualified Sherpa for help. If you really want a true ‘guide’ then you will pay more than their top price listed but you can get a 1:1 ratio with an experienced western guide. While a company may have a good reputation, your experience could be fantastic or a disaster depending on the on-mountain leadership. Spend as much time understanding, researching and interviewing your leaders and the expedition organization as you do the company and the mountain.
The indicates a company I would seriously consider without hesitation based on their safety record, interaction with customers, summit success and to some extent pricing value. All of this has been sustained over many years and many types of expeditions. The others are good companies but warrant further research depending on the complexity of the climb and the type of experience you desire.
* The term ‘leading’ compared to ‘guiding’ indicates the expedition does not have a western or lead Sherpa always with the climbers throughout the expedition. This may or may not be important to your selection.
(many advertise but do not run all climbs)
1992
New Zealand
Guy Cotter
Everest (S): $83K
Cho Oyu: $40K
Aconcagua: $7.1K
Denali: $12.5K
Vinson: $52K
7 summits , Asia, North & South America, Africa, New Zealand, Polar
Everest, Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, Mustagata, and more
Same core group of Sherpas for years on Everest, Professional office staff.
1986
US
Todd Burleson
Everest (S): $76K
Cho Oyu: $35K Manaslu:26K
Aconcagua:$5.3K
Denali: $11.7K
Vinson: $51K
7 summits , Asia, North & South America, Africa, Polar
Everest, Denali, Aconcagua, Vinson, Kilimanjaro, and more
7 Summits program, Professional office staff. Long history of guiding.
2004
US
Adrian Ballinger
Everest (N): $98K
Aconcagua: $12.5K
Vinson: $56K Cho Oyu: 50,000
Himalaya, South America
Everest, Alpamayo, Aconcagua
Short trips at very expensive prices. Excellent safety record
2017
US
Mike Hamill
Everest (S): $75K western guide
Everest (S):$55K Sherpa guide
Manaslu:$27K
Aconcagua:$6K
Denali: $14.5K
Vinson: $52K
Cho Oyu: $34K
7 Summits
7 Summits and more
One of most innovative companies
Austria
Lukas Furtenbach
Everest(S):$79K
Everest(N):$79K
EverestFlash-N:$109K
K2:$68.3
Cho Oyu:$43K
Manaslu:$25.8K
Aconcagua:$16.4K
Denali:$12.9K
Vinson:$54.6K
Himalayas, Alps
Everest, K2, Broad Peak, Cho Oyu,
Pre-acclimitize using tents at home, speed climbs, small teams
1975
US
Eric Simonson, Phil Ershler, George Dunn
Everest(S)Sherpa guide: $54K
Cho Oyu: $29.5K Manaslu: $23.5K
Denali: $12.5K
Aconcagua: $5.5K
Vinson: $50.5K
7 summits , Asia, North & South America, Africa
Everest, Cho Oyu, South America, Canada, and more
Full Service, highly experienced.
1987
UK
Steve Bell
Everest(N):$78.8K
Cho Oyu:
Aconcagua: $6.6K
Denali: $13.6K
7 summits , Asia, North & South America, Africa
Cho Oyu, Everest, Shishapangma, and more
Global climbs, UK Based.
1996
US
Mark Gunlogson
Everest (S): $72K
Aconcagua: $5.8K
Denali: $12.9K
Cho Oyu:$27.5 Manaslu: $25K Vinson: $49K
7 summits , Asia, North & South America, Africa
Denali, South America and more
Excellent South American programs
2013
US
Garrett Madison
Everest: $79.5K
Denali:$14.9K
K2: $79.5K Manaslu: $31K
Cho Oyu: $53.5K
Vinson:$54.6K Aconcagua: $7.5K
7 Summits
Everest, K2, Makalu , Vinson
One of the latest new companies. western Guides. Expensive.
1969
US
Lou Whittaker
Denali: $12.5K
Aconcagua: $7.4K
Rainier: $1.9K
Everest: (S)$74K
North & South America, 7 Summits
Rainier, Denali, Everest, Aconcagua, Vinson and more
Rainier Experts, expanding internationally.
2004
US
Ryan Waters
Everest (S): $70K western guide
Everest (S):$49.9K Sherpa guide
Cho Oyu: $29K
Manaslu:$25K
Aconcagua: $5.5K
Vinson:$49.5K
7 Summits & N/S Poles
South Pole, Aconcagua, Everest, Elbrus, Island Peak, Vinson
Polar experts, plus extensive Everest experience.
1973
US
Bill Allen, Todd Rutledge
Aconcagua: $7K
Denali: $12.9K
Everest: $83K
Vinson:$54.6K
Alaska, Himalaya, South America, Africa, Antarctica
Denali, Carstensz, Aconcagua, Vinson, Everest and more
Denali Experts
2006
US/Nepal
Phil Crampton
Everest (N):$49K?
Ama Dablam: $11K?
Cholatse: $11K
Himalayas, Peru
Makalu, Dhaulgiri, Cholatse, Cordillera Blanca
Teams of 8 max, excellent BC logistics,
1992
US/Argentina
Willie & Damian Benegas
Everest(S):$80K
Aconcagua:$5.9K
Kilimanjaro:$5.8K
Himalaya, South America
Everest, Alpamayo, Aconcagua
Solid choice for Everest and anything in S. America.
Nepal/New Zealand
Jamie McGuinness
Custom Treks
Treks
treks
Mostly treks these days
Russia
Alex Abramov
Everest:(S)$80K
Everest:(N)$90K K2: $65.3K
Cho Oyu:$51.5K
Manaslu:$28.5K Vinson: $56K
7 summits
Everest, Denali, Aconcagua, Vinson, Kilimanjaro
Climbs for 7 Summits, focuses on Russian market
US
Dan Mazur
Everest(S):$42.5K
Everest (N):$46.5K
Manaslu:$16.5K
Cho Oyu:$31.8K
South America, Pakistan, Himalaya
Everest, Aconcagua, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum, Ama Dablam
basic logistics with minimal service. Attracts clients seeking low cost and/or with experience.
Nepal
Ang Tshering Sherpa
Everest (S): $45K?
Everest (N): $40K?
Manaslu:$7K
Cho Oyu:$14K
Everest, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Ama Dablam
Famous for their Everest non-guided trips.
Nepal
Everest (S): $45K
Everest (N):$42.5K
Cho Oyu: $24.5K
Manaslu:$16.5K
Nepal
Everest (S): 42.5K
Everest (N): 42.5K
Nepal
Everest (S):$42.5K
Everest (N):$42.5K
K2: $42.5K
Cho Oyu: $25.5K
Manaslu: $16.5K
Large teams with SE Asia makeup
Nepal
Mingma and Dawa Sherpa
Everest(S):$43.5K?
Everest(N):$45.5K?
Cho Oyu:$16.5K?
Manaslu: $13.5K?
K2: $33.5?
7 Summits plus the 8000m mountains
Everest, K2, Cho Oyu, Manaslu, Makalu
Nepal based Sherpa operated. Huge teams. Lower cost but pay staff low.
Nepal
Tendi Sherpa
Everest-N $55K est
Everest-N $52K est
HImalayas
Everest, K2, Cho Oyu, Manaslu, Makalu
2:1 client to UIAGM certified guide ratio and 1:1 client to Sherpa ratio.
Nepal
Ang Tshering Sherpa
Everest-S:$20K est
Everest-N:$20K est
Everest, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma, Ama Dablam
Famous for their Everest non-guided trips.
Nepal
MIngma and Dawa Sherpa
Everest-S:$20K est
Everest-N:$20K est
K2: $17 est
7 Summits plus the 8000m mountains
Everest, K2, Cho Oyu, Manaslu, Makalu
Nepal based Sherpa operated. Huge teams. Lower cost but pay staff low.
Pakistan
K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum, Nanga Parbat, Spantak, Muztagh
Largest outfitter in Pakistan – 70 climbs and treks a year
Pakistan
K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum, Nanga Parbat, Spantak, Muztagh
Top outfitter for Karakorum.
Argentina
Aconcagua
all types of expedition logistic support:mules, guides, porters, meals and BC facilities
Tanzania
Kilimanjaro
Kilimanjaro
40+ years of guiding on Kili with local staff
Mexico
Orizaba Iztaccihuatl, Malinche, Nevado de Toluca
Iztaccihuatl, Orizaba
Strong local presence. Safe, well run operation in Tlachichuca
Russia
Sergey Zon-Zam
Elbrus
Elbrus
Strong local operator for Elbrus and others.
Alaska
Don Wray, Tina Green
Alaska
Denali
Local help with logistics only for a fair price
Peru
Chris Benway
Peru
Cordella Blanca: Huascaran, Alpamayo, Chopicalqui, Millisraju, Tocllaraju,
16 years of providing local logistics for a fair price.
Please see Selecting a Guide for more information
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