mom dad pikes peak

Are We Actually Making Progress on Alzheimer’s? Here’s the Real Story

Many of you who have followed me for more than 20 years know the story of the day my mom, Ida, looked at me in a Perkins restaurant in Memphis, Tennessee, and said, “Now, who are you again?”

My world pivoted in that moment.

Over time, I shifted part of my life’s purpose and began using my mountain climbing to become an Alzheimer’s advocate — to honor Ida, raise awareness, and help fund research aimed at preventing, slowing, stopping, and eventually curing Alzheimer’s disease.

So where are we today?

I am asked this all the time when I speak: Are we actually getting anywhere?

You read the press, try to follow the science, subscribe to journals, and before long you’re buried in jargon and conflicting headlines. If you are a caregiver, or navigating symptoms yourself, progress can feel distant or painfully slow. It’s hard to square optimistic headlines with the day-to-day reality families face.

I recently met a 75-year-old gentleman showing mid-stage symptoms. He asked me, “Where can I get reliable information on the research?” I’ll answer him at the end of this post.

When you look across the latest federal reports and research advances, two truths come into focus. The science is moving — faster and more meaningfully than it has in decades. At the same time, far too many people still can’t access the benefits of that progress.

Together, those two truths tell the real story of Alzheimer’s in 2026. #alzheimer’s

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Podcast: Guy Cotter on Making Tenzing, and the Lessons of a Hard Year in the Mountains

If you follow mountaineering, you know Guy Cotter. He summited Everest as a guide with Rob Hall and Gary Ball in 1992, has run Adventure Consultants for thirty years, and has quietly helped bring mountains to the big screen since Vertical Limit. Tomorrow, October 16, Tenzing premieres on Apple TV. It’s Jennifer Peedom’s film about Tenzing Norgay, with Genden Phuntsok as Tenzing and Tom Hiddleston as Edmund Hillary, and Guy was the alpine production supervisor. He scouted locations in Nepal and New Zealand, then kept as many as 150 actors, stunt doubles, and crew safe on Aoraki Mt Cook and the Tasman Glacier in mid-winter, at temperatures down to -23C. #tenzingmovie #guycotter

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Ama Dablam

Autumn Himalayan Climbing – Everest and More

Despite a brutal year in the high mountains—including 20 dead or presumed dead during Nepal’s autumn season and the 10 killed on Broad Peak in Pakistan in July—the 2026 autumn Himalayan climbing season continues. A small four-person Russian team is currently climbing on Everest, scouting a possible new route for a larger attempt next spring. A dispute over rope fixing, followed by worsening snow and wind conditions, ends attempts on Nepal’s final active 8,000er of the autumn season. #manaslu2026 #himlung2026 #everest2026 #dhaulagiri2026

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Manaslu

Changing Mountains, Changing Risk: Is There Always Another Route?

A couple of months ago, I talked about the tragedy on Broad Peak. Many of you listened and left thoughtful comments. Thank you for that. Since then, it’s been a tough season in the mountains. A really hard year. I took some time to think deeply about a few key questions and how to move forward—not speaking for the industry or the climbing community, but from my own experience, observations and opinion. Today I want to step back and look at the bigger picture. Are the mountains becoming too dangerous? Or is the risk changing, and are we changing with it?
#broadpeak2026 #manaslu2026, #himlung2026 #langtangflood2026

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Climbers missing after avalanche hits Himlung Base Camp—sixteen missing.

Climbers missing after avalanche hits Himlung Base Camp—fourteen people are missing. Himlung Himal (7,126 m), in Manang district, requires an additional permit for helicopter flights, adding to the difficulties of reaching the mountain.

Himlung has been heavily marketed since Nepal floated the idea of requiring a 7,000-meter climb in Nepal before applying for an Everest permit. The rule is going through Nepal’s governmental approval process but is not in place as of September 2026, and probably will not be in time for the Everest 2027 Spring season. #manaslu2026

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Phurba Tashi Sherpa, Himex Sidar, fixing route to Manaslu summit in 2013

Manaslu Over for Most—Finally!

It’s over on Manaslu. Even the rope-fixers are bailing as the typhoon is about to make landfall, bringing, perhaps, feet of snow to the higher elevations across the Himalaya. The Nepali weather experts are warning of potential flooding in Kathmandu and other areas. #manaslu2026

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Manaslu Northeast Ridge Route

Manaslu Dominates Autumn Himalaya Season and One Death

With China closing Tibet to mountaineering this autumn and recent floods making travel to many areas in Nepal difficult, operators focused on Manaslu, and climbers came.

Nepali authorities have issued a record 451 climbing permits to foreign climbers on Manaslu (8,163 meters/26,781 feet), with a 1:1.5 member-to-support ratio, which could put 1,128 climbers on the mountain. Nepal received over $1.35 million in royalties. Sadly, there has been one death. #manaslu2026

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Ten Years of Summit Coach—and a Special Offer for Climbers

September 2026 marks ten years since I founded Summit Coach, LLC. Since then, I’ve worked with hundreds of clients and interacted with thousands more. Today, I have dozens of climbers under contract—each with a different background, schedule, and definition of success. For my anniversary, I’m excited to make a special offer to new and current clients. #summitcoach #alanarnette

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