Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Ryan Mitchell, a Summit Coach client, planned to climb two 8000-meter peaks without supplemental oxygen with his friend and professional mountain guide, Justin Sackett, but not everything went as planned. In this podcast, we discuss the expedition, its risks, decision-making and emotions. Both climbers wanted to climb without supplemental oxygen. #everest2026
It’s only been a few days since the massive earthquake on Pakistan’s Broad Peak, and search teams, operators’ home teams, and the Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) have confirmed that there were no survivors. Now the priority has shifted from rescue to recovery.
I always hesitate to post about climbing accidents too early, as there is a tremendous amount of misinformation in the mainstream media and especially on social media; thus, this is a preliminary post with as much information as I can confirm as of midday, July 31, 2026.
Apparently, around 9:30 am local time on July 30, at 6,600m, a massive avalanche on Broad Peak, 8,047 meters / 26,401 feet, affected at least 10 climbers, including Elite Expeditions co-founder Nirmal Purja. This is the first official information published:
The Karakorum continues to be quiet as we approach the end of July. There have been summits only on Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak and Gasherbrum II. High winds have hampered attempts on K2, while other issues have emerged on GI and Broad Peak.
In a quiet season, with poor weather stalling progress, there is climbing across the Karakorum. While the first summits of this 2026 summer season on Nanga Parbat feel like a long time ago, a few teams have reached several of Pakistan’s five 8,000-meter peaks and are on their summit bids.
What’s different about this season is the lack of huge (50+ clients with 50+ Sherpas); instead, small, even solo professional climbers, many climbing without oxygen or Sherpa support – in other words, low-cost base–camp only services from budget Pakistani operators. Kind of feels like the good old days, ten to fifteen years ago. #k2026
In a quiet season, climbing across the Karakorum is underway, with the first summits of this 2026 summer season on Nanga Parbat. A few teams reached several of Pakistan’s five 8,000-meter peaks. #k2026
Over the past two years, Nepal’s government and the Ministry of Culture, Tourism, and Civil Aviation have been working on a sweeping Tourism Bill that includes new rules for casinos, hospitality, and mountaineering. The key proposed rule for Everest mountaineers is the requirement to have summited a 7,000-meter-or-higher peak in Nepal before receiving an Everest permit. #everest2027
In 1996, three Indian climbers died on the Tibetan side of Everest. One became known as “Green Boots” and was macabrely used as a route marker for 30 years. That’s about to come to an end.
Romanian Madalin (Cris) Cristea, 34, didn’t just “summit” Everest on May 20; he summited after walking 1,125 kilometers (approx. 700 miles), starting on March 4th, 2026, from the village of Digha, India, on the Indian Ocean. Oh, then he walked back, covering 2,000 km (1,242 miles) over more than 100 days. In this Podcast, we discuss his journey and the two other seas to summit to sea climbs and his plans.
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