Practical advice from more than 30 years of climbing, from Colorado to the summits of Everest and K2: how to progress, the skills you need, what gear to take, how to choose a climb and a guide, and what to expect on the mountain. For one-on-one help planning your climb, see Summit Coach.
Two techniques guides hammer into you on Rainier, because they work. Both feel awkward at first, and both will make you a stronger, more efficient climber at any altitude.
The rest step feels awkward and slow at first, but it will increase your efficiency and actually make you go faster.
The idea is to align your skeleton for a split second so the major muscles, especially your glutes, can rest. As you walk, stand straight and lock the knee of your downhill (back) leg for a split second, with your weight over it. Your front leg carries almost no weight and is there for balance. After that fraction of a second, take the next step. You can use it often, usually going uphill, though not on every step.
Pressure breathing creates back pressure in the lungs to force carbon dioxide out and raise the oxygen level in your blood. It does not replace acclimatization, or the right action when altitude symptoms develop.
It’s simple: take a deep breath, expanding your belly rather than your chest, purse your lips, and blow the air out quickly in a fairly long puff of one to two seconds. Repeat several times, but not too many, and don’t hyperventilate.
Tip: done correctly, you will sound like a steam-train whistle. Some people hesitate because it can annoy those around them, but that’s their issue. Use it whenever you feel slightly winded. Put on a pulse oximeter while you pressure breathe and you will see your oxygen saturation rise, temporarily.
For more on what it takes, see Skills You Need Before Your Climb.
Every climber starts somewhere different. If you want an independent, one-on-one plan for your next objective, with no ties to guide companies or gear brands, that is what I do with Summit Coach. Start with a free call, or download my free Climber’s Starter Handbook.
From Your First Summit to Everest. One Coach, the Whole Way.
Planning your next big climb? Work one-on-one with Alan Arnette, Everest and K2 summiteer, for personalized training plans, independent guide-service advice, gear recommendations, and experienced support from preparation through expedition.
No commissions. No conflicts. Just advice focused on your success.
www.alanarnette.com is provided for informational purposes only and not for advice except through Summit Coach services.
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